CYCLOHEXANONE

[Drew7a]

CYCLOHEXANONE seems to be the active ingredient in BG109 and from my limited understanding appears to be similar to acetone but heat activated

If that is the case this should be a good varnish dissolver.

I may try the BG109 after my HPL EC experiments to clean up any residual varnish and ensure the oil control rings and piston skirts are nice and clean.

I have never tried this product so was curious what others experiences were?

I know most people here frown on "flushes" but advocate piston soaks, if this BG109 truly does dissolve varnish, what would be the harm in running this once every 50K to keep the oil control rings nice and clean.

In one of the previous posts with the Toyota with 10K OCI that got a new short block, that engine looked spotless but the oil control rings were stuck and block was trashed. I was just looking at something that would add additional cleaning power once in a while.

 

[Brian123]

This Toyota with the oil control rings that were shot was it ever determined what oil was used? I am guessing it was not Mobil 1 or Pennzoil Ultra Platinum.

 

[TiGeo]

The concern here on BITOG about the more traditional well-vetted flush products is un-founded. At some point you need to circulate a solvent to get into those rings and help keep them free/free them up is my opinion. I think the HPL EC should help as well.

 

[Drew7a]

This Toyota with the oil control rings that were shot was it ever determined what oil was used? I am guessing it was not Mobil 1 or Pennzoil Ultra Platinum.

That was supposedly dealer serviced and looking at the valvetrain, timing chain, the engine was very clean specially at 180K miles.

 

[TiGeo]

That was supposedly dealer serviced and looking at the valvetrain, timing chain, the engine was very clean specially at 180K miles.

I know - I saw the video...it was crazy how clean the engine was! Could really be as simple as a higher-quality oil.

 

[Drew7a]

The concern here on BITOG about the more traditional well-vetted flush products is un-founded. At some point you need to circulate a solvent to get into those rings and help keep them free/free them up is my opinion. I think the HPL EC should help as well.

Can you elaborate on what some of the concerns are?

I totally agree that the a solvent is necessary to soften any "gumminess" before it get completely stuck.

 

[TiGeo]

Can you elaborate on what some of the concerns are?

I totally agree that the a solvent is necessary to soften any "gumminess" before it get completely stuck.

Just a general thing here if you search that all these flushes are bad, waste of money, and harm your engine. Now they may not do a thing but they aren't hurting anyhing. I've used the Liquimoly flush product many times.

 

[Accent Abuser]

CYCLOHEXANONE seems to be the active ingredient in BG109 and from my limited understanding appears to be similar to acetone but heat activated

If that is the case this should be a good varnish dissolver.

I may try the BG109 after my HPL EC experiments to clean up any residual varnish and ensure the oil control rings and piston skirts are nice and clean.

I have never tried this product so was curious what others experiences were?

I know most people here frown on "flushes" but advocate piston soaks, if this BG109 truly does dissolve varnish, what would be the harm in running this once every 50K to keep the oil control rings nice and clean.

In one of the previous posts with the Toyota with 10K OCI that got a new short block, that engine looked spotless but the oil control rings were stuck and block was trashed. I was just looking at something that would add additional cleaning power once in a while.

I recommend BG EPR to any of my customers with oil consumption problems, and it always ends up removing large chunks of carbon from somewhere that can be found in the drained oil/filter media. It does what it says it does.

 

[JohnnyG]

I suppose it depends on what problem you are trying to solve. If you want a clean engine, just use a crankcase type of flush. If you have a stuck ringpack, no "engine flush" is going to get these and "dissolve" carbon. Piston soaks can sometimes improve that situation though.

 

[JohnnyG]

I recommend BG EPR to any of my customers with oil consumption problems, and it always ends up removing large chunks of carbon from somewhere that can be found in the drained oil/filter media. It does what it says it does.

But does it reduce oil consumption due to a stuck ringpack?

 

[Accent Abuser]

But does it reduce oil consumption due to a stuck ringpack?

Yes, that's the whole purpose of it.

 

[Drew7a]

---

I suppose it depends on what problem you are trying to solve. If you want a clean engine, just use a crankcase type of flush. If you have a stuck ringpack, no "engine flush" is going to get these and "dissolve" carbon. Piston soaks can sometimes improve that situation though.

In general the engine I am thinking of using this in is prone to stuck ringpacks, at this stage it is still working good with no issues, just looking for preventative maintenance and yes it has always had top shelf synthetics all its life.

So before they get stuck, I want to keep it clean.

 

[Accent Abuser]

---

In general the engine I am thinking of using this in is prone to stuck ringpacks, at this stage it is still working good with no issues, just looking for preventative maintenance and yes it has always had top shelf synthetics all its life.

So before they get stuck, I want to keep it clean.

Best way to use it, also shorten OCI to 5k max.

 

[TiGeo]

---

In general the engine I am thinking of using this in is prone to stuck ringpacks, at this stage it is still working good with no issues, just looking for preventative maintenance and yes it has always had top shelf synthetics all its life.

So before they get stuck, I want to keep it clean.

That's the whole point of the flush products at least to me - use them regularly to prevent the issue.

 

[Drew7a]

Best way to use it, also shorten OCI to 5k max.

Agreed I rarely exceed 5K OCI.

 

[MolaKule]

CYCLOHEXANONE seems to be the active ingredient in BG109 and from my limited understanding appears to be similar to acetone but heat activated

If that is the case this should be a good varnish dissolver.

I may try the BG109 after my HPL EC experiments to clean up any residual varnish and ensure the oil control rings and piston skirts are nice and clean.

I have never tried this product so was curious what others experiences were?

I know most people here frown on "flushes" but advocate piston soaks, if this BG109 truly does dissolve varnish, what would be the harm in running this once every 50K to keep the oil control rings nice and clean.

In one of the previous posts with the Toyota with 10K OCI that got a new short block, that engine looked spotless but the oil control rings were stuck and block was trashed. I was just looking at something that would add additional cleaning power once in a while.

Just be aware these volatile hydrocarbon flushes are very thin, with viscosities of the same order as water and thus will reduce the viscosity of the engine oil.

The BG 109 contain ethanol and cyclohexanone in a thin petroleum oil. Both the ethanol and cyclohexanone start to evaporate when the oil temps gets over about 105F.

Whether it be the BG 109 or the Amsoil flush, or some other flush, it is advisable to run the engine up to operating temp, add the flush and let idle for 15 minutes, and then drain oil and change filter.

 

[Revving2Redline]

Seems like using HPL EC, Archoil 9100,Redline Oil and a few others might go the way of using esters and gently removing crud vs harsh chemicals? I had considered using the Lubegard Flush but used the HPL EC30 instead. Guess changing oil a bit sooner can't help right?

 

[MolaKule]

Seems like using HPL EC, Archoil 9100,Redline Oil and a few others might go the way of using esters and gently removing crud vs harsh chemicals? I had considered using the Lubegard Flush but used the HPL EC30 instead. Guess changing oil a bit sooner can't help right?

and

@Accent Abuser said: "I recommend BG EPR to any of my customers with oil consumption problems, and it always ends up removing large chunks of carbon from somewhere that can be found in the drained oil/filter media. It does what it says it does."

I prefer a slow cleaning ester-based engine cleaner that puts the carbon in suspension (solves it) so chunks don't lodge in a VVT valve or the pickup screen.

 

[sk_pete]

I recommend BG EPR to any of my customers with oil consumption problems, and it always ends up removing large chunks of carbon from somewhere that can be found in the drained oil/filter media. It does what it says it does.

how so? doesnt the pickup tube have mesh on it ????

 

[Drew7a]

Just be aware these volatile hydrocarbon flushes are very thin, with viscosities of the same order as water and thus will reduce the viscosity of the engine oil.

The BG 109 contain ethanol and cyclohexanone in a thin petroleum oil. Both the ethanol and cyclohexanone start to evaporate when the oil temps gets over about 105F.

Whether it be the BG 109 or the Amsoil flush, or some other flush, it is advisable to run the engine up to operating temp, add the flush and let idle for 15 minutes, and then drain oil and change filter.

Agreed engine must be warm and not driven with product in sump. The container I have 32oz says to run for 30-45 minutes at 1200 RPM.

The oil that is drained smells real bad with this product but seems to really clean quickly.

So my own thought going forward is run BG109 first, drain oil, then use HPL EC with the new oil for an entire OCI.

Thought being, whatever the BG 109 softened up the HPL EC will do the final cleanup.