Thank you very much. LM 47 is the only thing I can find in this country and only from 1 seller. If the Liqui Moly LM47 will still be available I will go with that grease, if not I will just use the grease that comes with the Ridex brand boots. I also have GSP and Blueprint greases that came with boots (because of buying wrong boots). The boot itself is lasting less than 4 years so the grease will not be used more than 4 years anyway.
Cv Axle Boot Grease Oil Query
- Thread starter moonlightblue
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I will change inner cv joint boots. By saying inner I mean the boots close to the differential (not wheels). I know that Ridex is not the best option however I noticed that the original boots also did not last much longer than Ridex in mileagewise, but they may last longer period of time for sure. Price difference is nearly 10 times. So for this application it makes more sense for me to stick with Ridex which will last 4 more years on my 20 years old car. But for all other parts I only go genuine Suzuki except the upper engine and strut mounts which is Blue Print.
Thank you very much. So how can I know whether Liqui Moly LM 47 is whether for inner joint (differential side) or outer joint (wheel side) ?
Pretty sure that's a rat poison stateside
To be honest with you, I would probably just use the grease that they come with. I really doubt your cv joints will ever notice the difference. You are not a racer, or something are you? Overkill on lubricants doesn't "hurt" anything, but sometimes it is just a feel-good thing and has nothing to do with changing the lifespan of the product you are lubricating. I do a lot of overkill on my SUV, not because it is needed, just because I feel good using the higher quality stuff for no actual justifiable reason! LOL!
It's more like their gasoline, etc. additives are dubious and the cost tends to be a bit excessive for what it is.
I have used one of their oil additives, MoS2 anti-friction engine treatment, in the past, which worked exactly as advertised and saved me from doing about an $800.00 engine repair, and I used their Top Tech 4600 5W-30 engine oil for a length of time. It was a very good engine oil. Is their stuff pricy? Yes. At Walmart, you can get off the shelf brand name engine oils for considerably less money that are as good. The Liqui Moly 4600 had that engine running very quiet and smoother than the previous oils had used. Was it worth the extra cost, I guess it depends on what you want.
My next step was at My Honda Dealership where I purchased the car new. It was going to be $500.00-$800.00 roughly to replace parts and fix it right. I tried the MoS2 and by the end of the second day the noise was gone. It isn't that expensive, so I kept on using it.
Thanks for sharing your experience. Was the problem excessive oil consumption ? Just curious
Actually pistons and rings do not make any noise at any stage in their lifespan. What was the noise? Was it a timing setting problem? Or worn lifters and valves were hitting the cover or pistons? But if that was the case no additive would change the position. Just curious.My next step was at My Honda Dealership where I purchased the car new. It was going to be $500.00-$800.00 roughly to replace parts and fix it right. I tried the MoS2 and by the end of the second day the noise was gone. It isn't that expensive, so I kept on using it.
Thanks, I drive gently but too much steep uphills and downhills... In the past I have already used the grease came with an aftermarket boot and the brand was Japanparts. No issue.
Then at next boot replacement times I always relied on the grease that the service used. It was Castrol and in dark green color but not black so I am not even sure if it had Mos2. No issues as well. I found one already purchased but not used boot from Blue Print I will use its grease for one side and Liqui Moly Mos2 for the otherside.
I had a 2015 Honda CRV I bought new. At about 60,000 miles it developed a cold start rattle for a few seconds each morning. Those engines were known for that. To fix it right my Honda dealer estimated about $800.00 to replace the VVT Actuator, which was the right way to fix it. With age those VVT actuators would drain off the oil in them overnight and would rattle until oil pressure was built up in the morning. Anyhow, the Liqui Moly MoS2 additive stopped the noise by the second day after pouring it in my engine. I have used it in all my engines since. It seems to make a big difference on how my Honda push lawn mower runs too. As far as their Liqui Moly Top Tech 4600 engine oil, it was just a really good oil, engines like it, you could hear and feel the difference in the engine when using it. I am using Motul 8100 X Clean EFE 0W-30 in my current 2025 Toyota. I have 2-3 more oil changes on it then I might switch to something else. It is good oil but is costly here in the states.
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Thanks for the info but you are using wrong oil for that gasoline engine as I understand if you are using Liqui 4600 which is a C3 and LL04 oil with low protectors and it is more suitable for diesel engines. Right one should be A3/B4 with LL01 I believe. Liqui moly LL 5w30 Special Tec should be the right one in this case. But Liqui is always unnecessarily expensive and not having any petrolium background and implying made in germany on canisters is a reason to mistrust which gives me signal that they would breach every single little requirement as long as Germany can not catch them. This is what I understand when I see big letters of Germany on the canister. Why Shell / Pennzoil Castrol or Mobil do not write made in usa with big letters is another question to Liqui. I do not know Liqui prices in USA but here Liqui is very expensive so I always use Shell Ultra 5w30 which really has LL01 approval. I use it on M13A engine of my 4x4 Suzuki Swift since 2020 and the car is 2005 built. I also use it at my 2020 bmw 320i since new and I am the first owner. No oil consumption, no noise no performance issue on cold, nothing wrong. Buying directly from retail and pushing the seller to give an item from their container storage (dark cool safe places) instead of shelves which emit heat and sunlight and shaking the canister before opening the lid and pouring the oil inside the engine helps I think. There is no recommendation on canister to shake the bottle for engine oil but there is for ATF and diff. fluids so I apply this to engine oil too to be safe.
I have rarely ever followed the owner's manual specified engine oil in any car I own, brand new or otherwise. At this time, I am not using the 5W-30 4600 in anything, but wouldn't be afraid to, it is a premium oil, in my opinion. If I was going to use a Liqui Moly oil today, it would be their Top Tech 4210 0W-30. That is one of their oils that does contain PAO group 4 and esters in the blend. In my current new car, I am running Motul 8100 X Clean EFE 0W-30. I really like how this oil makes my 2025 Toyota act compared to running the 0W-16 viscosity the owner's manual calls for. I like the European ACEA C3 spec oils, that gives me a >3.5 HTHS that most 0 or 5W-30 API rated oils don't give you. This is another example of using oils I don't need, but just like. I realize what I am doing is not "proper". I do believe, however, the Liqui Moly MoS2 oil additive adds obvious benefit in some applications as it did in my case with my 2015 Honda CRV. Liqui Moly engine oils are too high priced, for what you get when I can buy Mobil 1 ESP 0W-30 off the shelf for so much less. Just so you know, don't panic, Toyota recommends 30 weight engine oils in this same exact engine in different countries. It is all about a little less fuel consumption and the government set emissions standards here in the USA, they don't recommend 0W-16 oil because it causes less wear in engines over let's say a 0W-30. Anyhow, you are using an excellent oil with your Shell lubricant choices. Those particular "Shell" labeled oils are not sold here but shell makes Shell Rotella, Pennzoil and Quaker State oils sold over here. They are all using the same "pure plus" natural gas base stock in their synthetics, including your Shell brand oils. Excellent oils. You are probably aware of this, but Shell is the parent company of Pennzoil and Quaker State. Shell used to be a USA owned company as did Motul. I am not sure where Shell corporate is out of anymore, but Motul is now from France. Take Care @moonlightblue , it has been a good discussion.
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I would avoid anything with solids (such as the LM47) for tripod joints. The Castrol sounds like it was the correct grease - the dark green color suggests it has a polyurea base. It could've been Castrol Optitemp XBT 1 LF?
The Blue Print grease may contain moly based on the label:
Anyway, if you want to be absolutely safe, then you could get VW G052186A3 which is specifically for tripod joints:
And some info from Febest regarding outer vs inner CV joint greases: https://febest.au/Blog/each-cv-joint-has-its-own-lubricant/
If the car is old then I would and do follow owners manual at choosing oil. However if the car is more recent. lets say after 2009 2010 (years of start of loss of honesty and integrity at auto. industry) then I stick with older style oils without thinking twice. At the end of the day car companies are hungry for money and need to hunt clueless people by recommending them wrong oil especially in the US.
Yes I know that Shell is operating as Pennzoil in US. Shell corporates from Netherlands now, and Motul operates from France.
No matter where i live in the US. If 0w16 0w20 is recommended at a Toyota that I owned, then I would definitely stick to 0W but I would use 0w40 A3B4 LL01 oil without thinking twice. Reason is that end of short life span of 0w40 will not damage the engine as much as short life span of 0w30 as it is even much thinner than 5w30. With regular driving I change 5w30 oil every 4 months and the oil is not coming in perfect condition at all. I do not believe to any healthy oil change every 6 or 12 months no oil will last that long. Every 4 months must be maximum interval which also will give you chance to change the oil at beginning and end of summer as well as mid winter where the oil breaks down most.
Thanks for the info.
I do not remember which Castrol grease service used.
On the Blue Print grease package (which is different than the one your shared) it only says CV joint grease and nothing else.
I can not find VW G052186A3 as just a grease. From Vw part number match I can find Febi 02582 which is without mos2 but it is a constant velocity grease. Is that the correct one?
Why shouldnt I use Liqui moly LM 47 at tripod (inner cv joints closer to the differential) ?
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Febi 02582 is with Mos2 :
https://partsfinder.bilsteingroup.com/en_US/article/febi/02582
For tripod , look up BMW 83232179708 . It is "One Luber GKN-C improved" (110g. packets)
https://partsfinder.bilsteingroup.com/en_US/article/febi/02582
For tripod , look up BMW 83232179708 . It is "One Luber GKN-C improved" (110g. packets)
