Cutting/grinding aluminum.

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Nov 29, 2009
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What's the best type of cutting wheel/grinding wheel to cut this off my boat trailer? I want to add longer ones so the bow sits higher when connected to the truck. I'm talking about the aluminum square tubing. I like this clean welded look, but obviously it becomes a problem when an adjustment is needed.

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I think using an oscillating tool with a fine tooth metal cutting crescent-shaped blade would allow you to cut it flush with the cross-member. They can be had pretty cheap at WalMart or HF if you don't already own one.

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I didn't know about the annealing issue... all the more reason to leave it to someone who knows how to do the welding. Worst thing you want to do is make their life harder through your choices.

I'm not much good at this stuff, but my recollection is, if it doesn't spark, then never use a cutoff wheel. The metal may build up on the stone, cause an imbalance, and then cause shrapnel. Maybe it's ok with angle grinders, but I suspect that the euphemism "death wheel" comes about for some reason. Be careful about what you might want to jump into.
 
Easier to make a spacer of some kind . Treated 4x4 , etc.
Those 2x4s pictured are already nearly split. Why not weld another aluminum square tube horizontally and that will still give me my extra height and I can just bolt those bunk boards instead of those dumb lag bolts that always split the wood and pull out?
 
Do not cut with a standard abrasive cutting wheel or grinding wheel. They can load up with Al then explode. You can easily get Al-rated wheels at your LWS.

For grinding/shaping I actually prefer a sanding disc on a rubber backer. You can also use a flapper but they're more expensive. You don't have to worry about sanding material loading up.

Generally speaking anything that works for wood works for Al. I might take that off with a Sawzall and then finish it off with a sanding disc.
 
If you have to cut it I would use a portable bandsaw, then grind the weld down with a flap disk. That said I would look for aluminum square tube or a block and attach it to the existing mount. With a block you could change the angle if needed, drilled and tapped you could remove it and go back to factory. With large bolts acting like standoffs and 2 nuts each you could make it adjustable after attaching it.
 
I would not cut the aluminum, I would add to the wood.

But, a carbide metal cutting wheel will work for days, standard grinding wheels seem to get clogged with aluminum.
 
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It is, but don't choose the finest tooth blade you can find, and oil it, both of these so the teeth don't clog up... same for using a sawzall, which is what I'd pick if you have one.
What about sanding it down flush with the cross member? I'm just going to cut them off completely and go with adjustable bolster mounts, so i can fine tune it to my liking. Is a flap disc the best? I do have an air powered sanding disc like what you would use for body work
 
Really, what is your plan for rebuilding this? Have you ever welded aluminum? Do you have the welder and consumables? Do you know a guy? Did he give you a price?

If you have to ask us how to cut the thing off, you're waaaaaay over your head.
 
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