Blackstone wants 30 bucks for the vacuum pump. Don't know if that's a good price. It's the same one we use in the military.
[Cut Open] Purolator Pure ONE PL25288 2.7K
- Thread starter sm00thpapa
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Originally Posted By: sm00thpapa
Blackstone wants 30 bucks for the vacuum pump. Don't know if that's a good price. It's the same one we use in the military.
I just go by Autozone(some carry them) or Wal-Mart and buy the little hand-pumps(Pennzoil label, but Made in China IIRC) in their marine/RV/tool sections. You have to be able to pull the sample cold, though or relatively warm, as hot hot oil will soften the plastic tube upon insertion.
Another reason some guys have the Fumoto valve drain plugs, I reckon.
PS: If you get one of the 'el cheapo hand pumps for now, make SURE to test pump them before purchasing. If they don't squeeze like butter in your hand or feel as if the bulb is hardening at all don't use them, they don't work!
Blackstone wants 30 bucks for the vacuum pump. Don't know if that's a good price. It's the same one we use in the military.
I just go by Autozone(some carry them) or Wal-Mart and buy the little hand-pumps(Pennzoil label, but Made in China IIRC) in their marine/RV/tool sections. You have to be able to pull the sample cold, though or relatively warm, as hot hot oil will soften the plastic tube upon insertion.
Another reason some guys have the Fumoto valve drain plugs, I reckon.
PS: If you get one of the 'el cheapo hand pumps for now, make SURE to test pump them before purchasing. If they don't squeeze like butter in your hand or feel as if the bulb is hardening at all don't use them, they don't work!
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: ltslimjim
Originally Posted By: sm00thpapa
Blackstone wants 30 bucks for the vacuum pump. Don't know if that's a good price. It's the same one we use in the military.
I just go by Autozone(some carry them) or Wal-Mart and buy the little hand-pumps(Pennzoil label, but Made in China IIRC) in their marine/RV/tool sections. You have to be able to pull the sample cold, though or relatively warm, as hot hot oil will soften the plastic tube upon insertion.
Another reason some guys have the Fumoto valve drain plugs, I reckon.
PS: If you get one of the 'el cheapo hand pumps for now, make SURE to test pump them before purchasing. If they don't squeeze little butter in your hand or feel light the bulb is hardening at all don't use them, they don't work!
Thanks man I'll search around. Time for bed. Later.....
Originally Posted By: sm00thpapa
Blackstone wants 30 bucks for the vacuum pump. Don't know if that's a good price. It's the same one we use in the military.
I just go by Autozone(some carry them) or Wal-Mart and buy the little hand-pumps(Pennzoil label, but Made in China IIRC) in their marine/RV/tool sections. You have to be able to pull the sample cold, though or relatively warm, as hot hot oil will soften the plastic tube upon insertion.
Another reason some guys have the Fumoto valve drain plugs, I reckon.
PS: If you get one of the 'el cheapo hand pumps for now, make SURE to test pump them before purchasing. If they don't squeeze little butter in your hand or feel light the bulb is hardening at all don't use them, they don't work!
Thanks man I'll search around. Time for bed. Later.....
Originally Posted By: sm00thpapa
Originally Posted By: ltslimjim
Originally Posted By: sm00thpapa
Blackstone wants 30 bucks for the vacuum pump. Don't know if that's a good price. It's the same one we use in the military.
I just go by Autozone(some carry them) or Wal-Mart and buy the little hand-pumps(Pennzoil label, but Made in China IIRC) in their marine/RV/tool sections. You have to be able to pull the sample cold, though or relatively warm, as hot hot oil will soften the plastic tube upon insertion.
Another reason some guys have the Fumoto valve drain plugs, I reckon.
PS: If you get one of the 'el cheapo hand pumps for now, make SURE to test pump them before purchasing. If they don't squeeze little butter in your hand or feel light the bulb is hardening at all don't use them, they don't work!
Thanks man I'll search around. Time for bed. Later.....
you could also maybe rig up a turkey baster or battery filler bulb with some hose. personally I would just sample at the end of the oci...
could also be maybe these filters have been stored in high humidity?
Originally Posted By: ltslimjim
Originally Posted By: sm00thpapa
Blackstone wants 30 bucks for the vacuum pump. Don't know if that's a good price. It's the same one we use in the military.
I just go by Autozone(some carry them) or Wal-Mart and buy the little hand-pumps(Pennzoil label, but Made in China IIRC) in their marine/RV/tool sections. You have to be able to pull the sample cold, though or relatively warm, as hot hot oil will soften the plastic tube upon insertion.
Another reason some guys have the Fumoto valve drain plugs, I reckon.
PS: If you get one of the 'el cheapo hand pumps for now, make SURE to test pump them before purchasing. If they don't squeeze little butter in your hand or feel light the bulb is hardening at all don't use them, they don't work!
Thanks man I'll search around. Time for bed. Later.....
you could also maybe rig up a turkey baster or battery filler bulb with some hose. personally I would just sample at the end of the oci...
could also be maybe these filters have been stored in high humidity?
I'll wait for my next OCI to do it. But I'ts like sayjac and yourself said the leaf spring held it together while it was closed.
Agree with slim above. IMO, the dome endcap coming off didn't compromise the operational function of the filter at all. The important part would be the seal at the dome centertube to the endcap. Also imo, unless the can rattled before removal, the leaf spring would be exerting enough pressure to hold the metal endcap with the concave portion against the resin/glue at the tube.
In fact, if one looks at the Fram application on this type filter(GM), orange can(3675) and tough guard, the leaf spring 'is' the seal at the tube. Meaning the only seal is the narrow recessed section of the leaf spring covering the fiber endcaps. And, at the thread end of those filters the only seal is a nitrile or silicone adbv against the fiber. Even if both metal endcaps fell off (Pz filter), it would seem, the seal provided would be at least as good or likely better than the Fram design. Also Wix and Napa Gold use a metal on metal thread end bypass design held on only by the coil spring, that falls off when the filter is opened.
All that said, it does seem odd that two of OP's filters have shown this phenomenon. Based on the recent resurrecting of multiple old theads to indicate displeasure with the endcaps, perhaps a good idea for the OP to switch to a more expensive higher line or other brand of filter. That would seem to make as much or more sense than dumping the PP/P1 combo at the 2700mi. on a whim.
In fact, if one looks at the Fram application on this type filter(GM), orange can(3675) and tough guard, the leaf spring 'is' the seal at the tube. Meaning the only seal is the narrow recessed section of the leaf spring covering the fiber endcaps. And, at the thread end of those filters the only seal is a nitrile or silicone adbv against the fiber. Even if both metal endcaps fell off (Pz filter), it would seem, the seal provided would be at least as good or likely better than the Fram design. Also Wix and Napa Gold use a metal on metal thread end bypass design held on only by the coil spring, that falls off when the filter is opened.
All that said, it does seem odd that two of OP's filters have shown this phenomenon. Based on the recent resurrecting of multiple old theads to indicate displeasure with the endcaps, perhaps a good idea for the OP to switch to a more expensive higher line or other brand of filter. That would seem to make as much or more sense than dumping the PP/P1 combo at the 2700mi. on a whim.
^Agreed, 100%. +1 on the idea of just using a top-end filter and changing it every 6-7.5 depending on what the OP can stomach. PP should be able to handle it no problem.
I have enough oil and filters for 5 years of oil changes. Dumping PP/P1 at 2700 miles is not gonna make the world crumble. Gonna run the D+ and PP for 6K and do a UOA and see the results.
So are we saying that the P1 is not a high end filter?
So are we saying that the P1 is not a high end filter?
Originally Posted By: sm00thpapa
I have enough oil and filters for 5 years of oil changes. Dumping PP/P1 at 2700 miles is not gonna make the world crumble. Gonna run the D+ and PP for 6K and do a UOA and see the results.
So are we saying that the P1 is not a high end filter?
PureONE is a good oil filter, just not top of the line IMO, still a very good filter for most folks and definitely anything short of 6,000 I'd feel comfortable using one in my app(I have a lot of insols currently).
BTW, don't mind me I've yet to brave long intervals myself(this is my first true extended interval currently)...
I have enough oil and filters for 5 years of oil changes. Dumping PP/P1 at 2700 miles is not gonna make the world crumble. Gonna run the D+ and PP for 6K and do a UOA and see the results.
So are we saying that the P1 is not a high end filter?
PureONE is a good oil filter, just not top of the line IMO, still a very good filter for most folks and definitely anything short of 6,000 I'd feel comfortable using one in my app(I have a lot of insols currently).
BTW, don't mind me I've yet to brave long intervals myself(this is my first true extended interval currently)...
Originally Posted By: ltslimjim
Originally Posted By: sm00thpapa
I have enough oil and filters for 5 years of oil changes. Dumping PP/P1 at 2700 miles is not gonna make the world crumble. Gonna run the D+ and PP for 6K and do a UOA and see the results.
So are we saying that the P1 is not a high end filter?
PureONE is a good oil filter, just not top of the line IMO, still a very good filter for most folks and definitely anything short of 6,000 I'd feel comfortable using one in my app(I have a lot of insols currently).
BTW, don't mind me I've yet to brave long intervals myself(this is my first true extended interval currently)...
I always go 6K OCI and my OLMS at that time is usually down between 40-30% oil life remaining. This is the first time I changed the oil at 2.7K for this vehicle. I ran Amsoil XL and a Amsoil oil filter till the OLMS read zero and the light flashed. The oil and filter were at 11,000 miles at that time.
I currently have P1's, D+'s and Royal Purple oil filters on hand.
Originally Posted By: sm00thpapa
I have enough oil and filters for 5 years of oil changes. Dumping PP/P1 at 2700 miles is not gonna make the world crumble. Gonna run the D+ and PP for 6K and do a UOA and see the results.
So are we saying that the P1 is not a high end filter?
PureONE is a good oil filter, just not top of the line IMO, still a very good filter for most folks and definitely anything short of 6,000 I'd feel comfortable using one in my app(I have a lot of insols currently).
BTW, don't mind me I've yet to brave long intervals myself(this is my first true extended interval currently)...
I always go 6K OCI and my OLMS at that time is usually down between 40-30% oil life remaining. This is the first time I changed the oil at 2.7K for this vehicle. I ran Amsoil XL and a Amsoil oil filter till the OLMS read zero and the light flashed. The oil and filter were at 11,000 miles at that time.
I currently have P1's, D+'s and Royal Purple oil filters on hand.
Originally Posted By: sm00thpapa
Originally Posted By: ltslimjim
Originally Posted By: sm00thpapa
I have enough oil and filters for 5 years of oil changes. Dumping PP/P1 at 2700 miles is not gonna make the world crumble. Gonna run the D+ and PP for 6K and do a UOA and see the results.
So are we saying that the P1 is not a high end filter?
PureONE is a good oil filter, just not top of the line IMO, still a very good filter for most folks and definitely anything short of 6,000 I'd feel comfortable using one in my app(I have a lot of insols currently).
BTW, don't mind me I've yet to brave long intervals myself(this is my first true extended interval currently)...
I always go 6K OCI and my OLMS at that time is usually down between 40-30% oil life remaining. This is the first time I changed the oil at 2.7K for this vehicle. I ran Amsoil XL and a Amsoil oil filter till the OLMS read zero and the light flashed. The oil and filter were at 11,000 miles at that time.
I currently have P1's, D+'s and Royal Purple oil filters on hand.
Good choices, all around really. Haven't yet tried a Royal Purple filter, but that's one goal in life I want to achieve.
PS: I've yet to have the privilege of driving a vehicle that I serviced regularly with an OLM(sensor) etc.
Originally Posted By: ltslimjim
Originally Posted By: sm00thpapa
I have enough oil and filters for 5 years of oil changes. Dumping PP/P1 at 2700 miles is not gonna make the world crumble. Gonna run the D+ and PP for 6K and do a UOA and see the results.
So are we saying that the P1 is not a high end filter?
PureONE is a good oil filter, just not top of the line IMO, still a very good filter for most folks and definitely anything short of 6,000 I'd feel comfortable using one in my app(I have a lot of insols currently).
BTW, don't mind me I've yet to brave long intervals myself(this is my first true extended interval currently)...
I always go 6K OCI and my OLMS at that time is usually down between 40-30% oil life remaining. This is the first time I changed the oil at 2.7K for this vehicle. I ran Amsoil XL and a Amsoil oil filter till the OLMS read zero and the light flashed. The oil and filter were at 11,000 miles at that time.
I currently have P1's, D+'s and Royal Purple oil filters on hand.
Good choices, all around really. Haven't yet tried a Royal Purple filter, but that's one goal in life I want to achieve.
PS: I've yet to have the privilege of driving a vehicle that I serviced regularly with an OLM(sensor) etc.
Originally Posted By: ltslimjim
Originally Posted By: sm00thpapa
Originally Posted By: ltslimjim
Originally Posted By: sm00thpapa
I have enough oil and filters for 5 years of oil changes. Dumping PP/P1 at 2700 miles is not gonna make the world crumble. Gonna run the D+ and PP for 6K and do a UOA and see the results.
So are we saying that the P1 is not a high end filter?
PureONE is a good oil filter, just not top of the line IMO, still a very good filter for most folks and definitely anything short of 6,000 I'd feel comfortable using one in my app(I have a lot of insols currently).
BTW, don't mind me I've yet to brave long intervals myself(this is my first true extended interval currently)...
I always go 6K OCI and my OLMS at that time is usually down between 40-30% oil life remaining. This is the first time I changed the oil at 2.7K for this vehicle. I ran Amsoil XL and a Amsoil oil filter till the OLMS read zero and the light flashed. The oil and filter were at 11,000 miles at that time.
I currently have P1's, D+'s and Royal Purple oil filters on hand.
Good choices, all around really. Haven't yet tried a Royal Purple filter, but that's one goal in life I want to achieve.
PS: I've yet to have the privilege of driving a vehicle that I serviced regularly with an OLM(sensor) etc.
Dude pay the 15 bucks or whatever for the RP filter and you life goal is achieved. End of story--this should not be a mountain to climb
Originally Posted By: sm00thpapa
Originally Posted By: ltslimjim
Originally Posted By: sm00thpapa
I have enough oil and filters for 5 years of oil changes. Dumping PP/P1 at 2700 miles is not gonna make the world crumble. Gonna run the D+ and PP for 6K and do a UOA and see the results.
So are we saying that the P1 is not a high end filter?
PureONE is a good oil filter, just not top of the line IMO, still a very good filter for most folks and definitely anything short of 6,000 I'd feel comfortable using one in my app(I have a lot of insols currently).
BTW, don't mind me I've yet to brave long intervals myself(this is my first true extended interval currently)...
I always go 6K OCI and my OLMS at that time is usually down between 40-30% oil life remaining. This is the first time I changed the oil at 2.7K for this vehicle. I ran Amsoil XL and a Amsoil oil filter till the OLMS read zero and the light flashed. The oil and filter were at 11,000 miles at that time.
I currently have P1's, D+'s and Royal Purple oil filters on hand.
Good choices, all around really. Haven't yet tried a Royal Purple filter, but that's one goal in life I want to achieve.
PS: I've yet to have the privilege of driving a vehicle that I serviced regularly with an OLM(sensor) etc.
Dude pay the 15 bucks or whatever for the RP filter and you life goal is achieved. End of story--this should not be a mountain to climb
Dude pay the 15 bucks or whatever for the RP filter and you life goal is achieved. End of story--this should not be a mountain to climb [/quote]
Dude read up, I have RP filters in my stash and paid $11.99 from Summit Racing. I only use them when I run Amsoil.
Dude read up, I have RP filters in my stash and paid $11.99 from Summit Racing. I only use them when I run Amsoil.
Looks like coolant contamination here.
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