Cub Cadet Initial Oil Change?

[Jackson_Slugger]

My father bought a new Cub Cadet because the castor wheels make it easier from him to turn. The manual says to change the oil after about 5-10 hours, it doesn't say why but obviously as a break-in to get out any shavings. The engine is probably a Kohler but could be a Honda and it prefers either 10W-30 or 10W-40.

Is the break in oil change necessary? Does anyone else do this? The oil is translucent and very clean, but I'm guessing the OCD in me will probably drain and fill it...

 

[samven]

I would particularly if it is splash lubed without a filter. The oil might look ok but you dont get to see what is on the bottom of the pan that will get stirred up and sometimes the tiny metal particles in suspension dont look like much until you see them in the drain pan in the sun.

 

[Eddie]

Diffidently change the oil at the recommended interval. If you look closely after the oil is drained into a pan you will see lots of glitter which is the remnants of the break-in wear. From my experience wit B&S and Kohler engines. Ed

 

[wpod]

Change the oil

 

[jeepman3071]

Whenever I install a new engine in a customer's machine I recommend a break-in oil change after 5 hours, and another after 10 hours.

 

[OilReport99]

Break in 5 hours, then T4 10W-30.

 

[tnt_motorsports]

initial changes on new motors tend to be pretty critical to flush out break in metals. After that then I go once a year on my equipment.

 

[dwendt44]

5 to 10 hours is common for new engines.
I tend to push it a bit to 15 hours on my Kawasaki.
Went with a Fram Ultra and semi-synthetic for the first
change. Will go full synthetic 15W-40 this fall.

My 2¢

 

[Astro_Guy]

An initial oil change after 5-10 hours of operation seems to be the standard manufacturer's recommendation. I've seen this on the last five pieces of OPE added to our stable, including those powered by Briggs, Honda, and various Chinese clones. After the initial change I favor Mobil 1 High Mileage 10w-30 for its 3.5 HTHS. Some of my machines get 5w-40 Rotella T6 and the snow blower gets some form of M1 5w-30, but that 10w-30 HM is the standard go to oil for most of my OPE fleet.

 

[Jackson_Slugger]

Done and done. I used some Mobil Super Syn 10W-30 I had on hand. There were definitely metallic shavings in the pan...

 

[thastinger]

Yeah, change it. I would even change it and flush it with some cheap stuff, then fill it with what you want. I run mobil 1 euro 0-40 in my 4 stroke lawn engines.

 

[ragtoplvr]

splash lube with no full flow filter, change at 2 hours, and after another 5

If it is hot where you are, use 30 Otherwise 10W30 after break in, depending on weather 10W30/40 wlamart oil. Change every year.

Rod

 

[ragtoplvr]

I let run about 30 seconds, then mow. No need for warm up if 60 or above.

Rod

 

[Jackson_Slugger]

I'll try to post the specific oil recommendations. It says "10W-30" is recommended overall for most and can be used up to 100F/40C, but it never gets quite that hot here although we've had a lot of 90+ days. The chart mentions just about every weight but favors multi-weights. I have SAE30 on hand for the Toro which only lists that weight but CC says not to use it around 50F, at which temp I do occasionally mow in spring and fall and my 80 year old father might had trouble starting it. I'll probably stick to 10W-30/40 in blends for full syn...

 

[Astro_Guy]

I'll try to post the specific oil recommendations. It says "10W-30" is recommended overall for most and can be used up to 100F/40C, but it never gets quite that hot here although we've had a lot of 90+ days.

Odds are that you won't want to mow the grass at 100F anyway, so you shouldn't sweat this one either literally or figuratively.

 

[Gene K]

If you use a HDEO 10W-30 like Rotella T4 or T5 (which is what I usually use) it's a 3.5 HTHS so it's going to be higher operating viscosity than the typical 10W-30 PCMO anyway.

 

[Jackson_Slugger]

Odds are that you won't want to mow the grass at 100F anyway, so you shouldn't sweat this one either literally or figuratively.

I drew the line the yesterday with 84-87F and very high humidity...

 

[Jackson_Slugger]

If you use a HDEO 10W-30 like Rotella T4 or T5 (which is what I usually use) it's a 3.5 HTHS so it's going to be higher operating viscosity than the typical 10W-30 PCMO anyway.

I'm sure that is ideal. But I have aging oils on hand, and honestly if you do any maintenance on this stuff with the appropriate oils it tends to last longer than you do anyways. My father just gave away his 94' or so Toro with a Tecumseh after mostly using the wrong non detergent SAE30 oil in it for most of its life (recommended SF 10W-30 but SF SAE30 could be used IIRC). The engine still runs fine but the wheel was broken and trying to get parts wasn't worth it. The next change in spring, the oil might have 10-15 hours tops on it....

 

[Jackson_Slugger]

I let run about 30 seconds, then mow. No need for warm up if 60 or above.

Rod

It was piping hot, I mowed for about an hour then let it sit for maybe 20 mins and pulled the plug and I must have gotten everything because it took the full 20 oz. capacity...

 

[tundraotto]

as little money as it costs to do it right....yes - 5-10hrs drain and change filter. and replace oil with some 15W-40 in for a happy mower engine for longer than the deck will last.