CRC Red anti-squeal goo

[Pablo]

As I’m collecting up the goodies for my Volvo 850 front brake job, I mentioned to the Critic I was gonna use some CRC Red brake jello on back side (I usually only use silicone grease at the appropriate locations)….he said no way, I shouldn’t use that red goop - it will cause the built-in shims (not loose shims) to delaminate, etc. He followed up with some scoop from the CRC and others that said to not use the CRC goop on shimmed applications….. because basically the stuff is tacky. I do plan on sticking with my regular silicone grease. But has anyone had an actual bad encounter with that CRC Red stuff?

Just curious.

 

[gomes512]

Nope, used it on a shimmed applications twice in a row on two different vehicles until I had realized a while back that I wasn't suppose to. No harm had occurred though and didn't notice anything out of the ordinary when redoing the brakes later on.

Maybe I got lucky?

 

[Pablo]

Were these loose shims or bonded shims?

 

[Tempest]

I had to replace rotors and pads on my Liberty because the brake shop used some kind of "glue" on the shimmed pads. The shims came loose on both sides, dropped down and started to cut into the rotors like a lathe tool (no kidding, went at least 1/16" into the rotor on both sides!

). Thankfully they started squeaking so it got me to look at them.

I did the brakes myself this time. I would recommend Ceramlube for the exterior parts of your brakes. Very happy with this lube.

ETA: I still have the rotors and I can E-mail you picks tomorrow if you would like to see them.

 

[alreadygone]

Pablo,

For the most part, the CRC stuff is old technology. Use the Hi-temp grease for best all around service.

Bob

 

[Jim 5]

I used it this month after a brake job on my BMW caused rear caliper squealing. Solved the problem for good.

Unlike my wife's acura, the BMW brake pads have no thin metal shims, just old school solid pads.

 

[Pablo]

The job went smooth other than my brake fluid filled condom spilling and dribbling when I pushed the pistons back in. I forgot how much force it takes. I use a small piece of wood on the face and a clamp. I wouldn't normally post about such a standard maintenance item, but it actually felt good to do some car work.

Funny how my mind works - I've been unable to do any work on the cars (without extreme pain, etc) due to a blown out neck. After surgery and now physical therapy I'm 110%...my point being - the whole summer I've been sweating BB's about the pads wearing through.....the pad material looked so thin through the wheel spokes. I was thinking...oh man mega bucks to have some joker do it.....

Funny thing is - the pads had more meat left than I thought. I could have maybe made it through the winter.

All looked well and came apart easy, and cleaned up nice. I did the redneck method, I wire brushed the circumference of the disc, filed the outer edges and emery papered the heck out of the disc to break the glaze. Runout and thickness were fine (these discs are have about 60K +,) I was afraid it would be out because I have felt some pulsing from time to time.

PBR Deluxe Organic pads had some bonded material on the back face and looked slightly different than last time I used them. I just made sure the caliper piston was very clean and inserted the pads dry. Then I smeared the slide bolts real good with silicone grease.

I did 10 40-10 stops. VERY quiet and FAST stopping. No pulsing. I'm happy.

 

[alreadygone]

Good show!

Hope you all keep in mind, doing brakes professionally, if I take too many steps, resurfacing,greasing backing pads etc, It seldom makes things worse. If I cut corers(even to save some good ole boy a buck), if there's even a small problem, when he comes back it's in a very unhappy farme of mind.

Bob

 

[mechtech2]

I won't hurt to use the sauce on a shimmed pad.
It may be unnecessary, but if you have it, put it on.
Your objective is quiet brakes.
Put it on last - right before assembly - and put the brakes on to squeeze out the excess before it starts to set up. Do one side at a time if you are slow.
No way will it cause harm to the shims.


The brake grease should be used on all sliding contact points, and the pins, of course.

 

[Pablo]

Originally Posted By: alreadygone
Good show!

Hope you all keep in mind, doing brakes professionally, if I take too many steps, resurfacing,greasing backing pads etc, It seldom makes things worse. If I cut corers(even to save some good ole boy a buck), if there's even a small problem, when he comes back it's in a very unhappy farme of mind.

Bob


Believe me I understand! I think that, being Mr. Painboy, it sure sucketh if I have to take it back apart because the whole shindig is making noise!!

 

[AcuraTech]

I like the Molykote that comes in a little packet with Honda brake pads.

I use that to goop up the back of the pad underneath the shims. Also use it on the ears of the pad where it contacts the caliper bracket and slides as it wears.

For the slide pins I use a high-temp regular type grease.

I've always had good luck with this, no uneven pad wear or noise.

 

[The Critic]

Lucky it didn't make noise since you didn't use silicone grease on the pad backs, hardware, or the pad abutment points.

 

[Pablo]

Originally Posted By: The Critic
Lucky it didn't make noise since you didn't use silicone grease on the pad backs, hardware, or the pad abutment points.


Well I dunno about luck - I did put some (tiny amount) high temp copper/nickel anti-seize on the pad abutment slide points - I don't think you would want silicone grease there! . What other hardware are you talking about?

The pads really looked like the are designed to not have ANY goo and the Volvo book doesn't mention using it either.

 

[The Critic]

Originally Posted By: Pablo
Originally Posted By: The Critic
Lucky it didn't make noise since you didn't use silicone grease on the pad backs, hardware, or the pad abutment points.


Well I dunno about luck - I did put some (tiny amount) high temp copper/nickel anti-seize on the pad abutment slide points - I don't think you would want silicone grease there! . What other hardware are you talking about?

The pads really looked like the are designed to not have ANY goo and the Volvo book doesn't mention using it either.

http://www.morseauto.com/brakejob.html

Watch the part on bracket preparation.

 

[The Critic]

Here's more documentation regarding anti-squeal and it's uses:

 

[The Critic]

Originally Posted By: Pablo
I did 10 40-10 stops. VERY quiet and FAST stopping. No pulsing. I'm happy.

If the ten stops were done in a row without any cool down, then the procedure will work for many performance pads from Porterfield, Hawk, PBR/Axxis, etc.

However, it is not the correct method for OE replacement pads from Raybestos, Akebono, Wagner, etc:

 

[Pablo]

krickey - let's call you Mr. Brake Book Research.

The backs of the pads did have some molded material. I'm glad I kept them "dry".

Volvo design is different than shown, no "other" hardware. But I cleaned and lubed the appropriate areas as I mentioned above....crikes the average joe is better off replacing the rotors verses turning them at home!!

Oh and I broke them EXACTLY as described by PBR. Enough said. Sheesh.

 

[Merkava_4]

Quote:
But has anyone had an actual bad encounter with that CRC Red stuff?


It doesn't spread too well when left out in the garage during the summer; that's why it now stays in the refrigerator all the time.

 

[mechtech2]

I've used cases of the CRC stuff. I can't see how there would be a problem with proper use.
Of course it is not NECESSARY, but neither is anything else.
Just don't goob it on thick and let it set up before assembly.

 

[Merkava_4]

The main thing is to have it nice a cold so it spreads on like cake frosting.

I use a putty knife.