Crate Engine MFG's Recommendation

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I ran across this page while web surfing. I thought it was interesting that they recommend 15W-40 from the very first turn of the key as opposed to SAE 30:

Quote:
Engine oil requirements

(June 06, 2007)

In recent years, auto manufacturers have switched to roller camshafts for performance and fuel economy reasons. This combined with the EPA requirements for reduced emissions, has led to the reduction of zinc diakyl dithiophosphate (ZDDP). This lower zinc content will not properly lubricate the flat tappet hydraulic lifters we use on the majority of our engines. Comp Cams has come out with a recent study indicating oils designed for diesel engines still have the higher zinc content. These oils have a service rating of CI4 and are of a 15W40 weight.
Our independent testing agrees with Comp Cams findings. Therefore, we are recommending SHELL ROTELLA oil with a 15w40 weight for initial start up and during the break in period of your Blueprint engine. After the critical break in period, synthetic oils such as Royal Purple can be used. Alternate brands that have the CI4 service rating can also be used.


http://www.blueprintengines.com/tech_tips/index.html?topic=details&tech_id=23
 
Since the oil companies are starting to lower ZDDP levels in even their HDEO's now, wouldn't it be safer to recommend a engine oil additive product instead?
I think this recommendation will be short lived.
 
Okay, so what is the recommendation for AFTER the break in period?... high levels of ZDDP not needed anymore?

On another note, it bothers me that there is nothing thinner than 15W-40 for my Michigan muscle car. This car sees more start-ups and less highway miles than any of my other cars. I need a 10W-30 or even a 5W-30 for the 350 rocket engine.
 
I definately don't want a 15w40 for the climate. And it goes beyond muscle cars, my DD is a 1983 fullsize. Carb and flat tappets.

Alex.
 
That is not a recommendation. That is an unfortunate statement.
We see excellent long term results in many of our crate/rebuilt GM short blocks utilizing RedLine 10-30. Yes with flat tappet lifters.
I must say be very careful you get US made OEM spec lifters and not aftermarket foreign garbage that has flooded the market in the past few years.
 
Originally Posted By: INDYMAC
Since the oil companies are starting to lower ZDDP levels in even their HDEO's now, wouldn't it be safer to recommend a engine oil additive product instead?
I think this recommendation will be short lived.


Rotella's new Triple Protection 15W40 CJ-4 has lower zinc levels than the previous product but it also soundly whipped the older product in camshaft wear tests. Zinc is only one of many top-notch anti-wear addditives. The lower zinc Triple Protection has exceeded their own full synthetic 5W40 product in wear tests done by Rotella. The difference is that your majority of HDEOs are using other anti-wear products to overcome lower zinc/phos levels whereas your SM rated PCMOs may or may not.
It is a mistake to assume lower zinc levels in the newer CJ-4 oils automatically means less cam/lifter protection.Zinc is only one anti-wear agent and was primarily used because it was very ost-effective. There are other agents that work better but cost more money to use(hence the increase in price for the Triple Protection over the old product).The Triple Protection is delivering better results than the older Rotella T ever did with less zinc but with other additives that Rotella isn't inclined to share with the whole world.
 
Originally Posted By: Kestas
On another note, it bothers me that there is nothing thinner than 15W-40 for my Michigan muscle car. This car sees more start-ups and less highway miles than any of my other cars. I need a 10W-30 or even a 5W-30 for the 350 rocket engine.

The better 15w-40 HDEO probably have cold flow propeties similar to a conventional passenger car 10w-30, especially the new CJ-4 grades with their higher quality base stocks.

If thats not good enough there is the Shell Rotella 5w-40.
 
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