Cracking Bathroom Paint - Calling Bob Vila Types

Status
Not open for further replies.
S

SumpChump

Joined
Feb 11, 2014
Messages
1,980
Location
Upper Midwest by the Lakes USA
Here's the situation. ...,ceiling paint beginning to peel off of ceiling above shower head, directly above vanity globe bulbs and near ceiling vent. First it crackles the it peels back from the surface and leaving nude paper surface of drywall exposed. The issue is spreading. It is a mostly flat finish type of white ceiling paint, I believe it is original, definitely not layered.

House single story ranch built in 1991, has insulated attic, bathroom has power vent fan to evacuate steam, no window in bathroom wall, furnace and mechanicals in basement. Upper Midwest location. Appears to be original ceiling paint.

Is this typical for this age? Is this a bad omen? Is this sandable or must it be scraped? Is there a paint type or brand (kilz, etc) that has more "bite" if bite is what is needed?


So I'm looking for a diagnosis (cause) but also advice to move ahead.
Above shower head.

Above one of the five vanity medicine cabinet globes.


Thanks guys!
albums...rrmys.jpg
[/img]
 
5 years ago I had the same problem plus a touch of mold. I sanded the peeling paint, painted with Kilz primer/sealer, followed by two layers of glossy paint. Five years later all is still good without peeling or mold.

hotwheels
 
Improper type of paint was used. I have same issue..Im in an apartment..good luck with sanding/scraping..its gona be a huge job if you try to do that. Ive tried. Previous owner should of used bathroom paint, and since you have no window try to get higher efficiency fan and find out if it actually vents to outside. true proper fix would be new drywall and than proper paint choice. Working on a ceiling is hard on your neck and back too..id be curious if someone knew an answer to this..my owner covered it up (very bad idea..but im moving out soon anyways). Good luck
smile.gif
 
Piece of cake. The paint never cured from the moisture constantly re-wetting it. Scrap off what you can with a putty knife,sand down any rough edges,then wipe it with a slightly damp cloth and make sure to get all the dust off the wall. The slighty moist cloth will provide tack for any loose particles to cling to the rag. Now get a product called Zinsser PeelStop(dont use Kilz its junk) and roll entire wall with this product. If its uber cracked then thin 5-10% with water and work it in a cracks and such. Allow 4 hrs for drying at least. Now check your walls as this product will smooth the substrate and should make it look more even and uniform. Now if there is any dips or holes etc now is the time for spackle. After it dries completely roll another coat of the peelstop. I recommended 1/2 soft woven rollers by purdy or wooster. Pick your color and use zinsser bathroom paint with mildewcide or sherwin-williams duration either in medium lustre/eggshell. Paints take 14-28 days to fully cure and longer in high moisture areas. Leave the door open, turn on the fan, anything to keep it from feeling like a sauna will help.
 
If you see the bare paper drywall surface under the top-coat, to me that indicates the painter didn't prime the sheetrock before applying a top coat. Big mistake. Especially in a damp area. I always roll on primer on bare wood, metal, drywall, etc. before the top-coat. I use the same brand of primer & top-coat.

The only other primer I might use instead is Zinnser BIN primer, which is white-pigmented shellac. It'll stick to anything and everything will stick to it. Makes a great sealer.

If this peeling is occuring throughout your bathroom, you're going to have to remove the paint, prime the drywall, then apply two coats of color.
 
Originally Posted By: Marco620
Piece of cake. The paint never cured from the moisture constantly re-wetting it. Scrap off what you can with a putty knife,sand down any rough edges,then wipe it with a slightly damp cloth


Any particular grit or sand style or block?

and as far as the curing... You are likely right. Amazingly since '91 this 3 bedroom, 1 bath home has been occupied probably since built. So it probably never cured or at least it never 'cured correctly' and goes through steam and dry-out cycles daily.

What will be tough will be getting the wife to stay out of the shower for the 2days of work and then to not steam it up for the next 20days. Uff.
 
80 grit or whatever. BIN Shellac is awesome for mold and fire and for priming stain/mold spots. After that use the peelstop as it really has monkey grip bonding properties and will hold very well. Zinsser also makesa mildew fighting additive for issues like yours. You might look into using it if you cant find a vinyl acrylic latex bathroom paint. I spent 7 yrs at sherwin williams so i've seen almost everything though I bought my peelstop and other zinsser accessories at menards.
 
(1) improper curing of paint, and/or poor quality paint (poor adhesion).

(2) wrong paint type (you must get 100% acrylic latex paint for bathroom.

(3) high moisture exposure, most likely due to poor bathroom ventilation.

For this, I typically prefer anything 120cfm or higher, Panasonic is the best, bar none.

Q.

p.s. I consider being called "bob villa" (note the lower-case) type an insult....
 
Originally Posted By: Marco620
80 grit or whatever. BIN Shellac is awesome for mold and fire and for priming stain/mold spots. After that use the peelstop as it really has monkey grip bonding properties and will hold very well. Zinsser also makesa mildew fighting additive for issues like yours. You might look into using it if you cant find a vinyl acrylic latex bathroom paint. I spent 7 yrs at sherwin williams so i've seen almost everything though I bought my peelstop and other zinsser accessories at menards.


Yeah der hey!

Ok. Scrape, sand, **Peelstop as primer ?** , then spackle, the Peelstop again, then a quality acrylic layex bathroom paint with zinsser mildewcide for two coats.
 
I used a coat of peelstop, then filled in with filler/spackle, and then sealed it all in at full strength with another peelstop coat. It goes on white and dries clear so keep that in mind.
 
Originally Posted By: Marco620
I used a coat of peelstop, then filled in with filler/spackle, and then sealed it all in at full strength with another peelstop coat. It goes on white and dries clear so keep that in mind.


Ah, got it.
smile.gif


Oh and it dries clear , wow, that will be a weird experience not seeing a pigment.


Btw thanks ALOT! very helpful.
 
Yes!Two coats is always preferred. I also like the whiz weinee rollers as they are 4-6" and might be easier to navigate on a small ceiling. Roll a M or a W into the wall or ceiling, roll it in then reload your roller. If you are pushing to get paint out you are skimping. I also dont recommend helpers as they may paint different and the final appearance wont look uniform.
 
Is that a waterpik in your shower? I use one all the time and my old one with simple green for detailed house cleaning. Wish it wasnt plastic internals or I would use it to clean engine bay too.
 
PM member demarpaint. I've never heard anyone calling Kilz "junk" before. I don't know Marcos' credentials but demarpaint is the BITOG resident paint expert.
 
^^ Thanks for the kind words Oil Changer.^^

That is a common problem, due to a lousy primer/possibly no primer at all job, and the wrong paint for the area. Before I start let me say, it might come back. Make sure you get every bit of failed paint off.

Start off by removing all loose and peeling paint. Clean the ceiling with a dilute mix 50/50 of simple green and water to remove soap scum. If you don't you'll have more problems later on. Use a damp towel or a good sponge, don't soak it! Use a damp towel with plain water to rinse it down! Treat any mold and mildew with Bleach, wipe it down with water. It might peel a bit more after the washing process which is good. If it does remove that too. Since it is a latex flat paint, and there aren't multiple coats that's a plus. Get Zinsser Peel Stop and apply a good coat of that, allow it to dry overnight. Once dry you can spackle if needed. Here's a trick that can make a big difference. If you plan on spackling don't use joint compound or powdered spackle. Use Ready Patch, it is a PITA to sand but, it is made with the by-products or oil base paint, and is less likely to fail in that area compared to the other two products. Prime the ceiling again with Zinseer 123 Primer, and let that dry, the longer the better. Put two coats of Kitchen and Bath paint on as a finish. Be patient and let the stuff really dry. People tend to rush coats and end up shooting themselves in the foot later on!

With problem areas like that longer dry time is very important. If you have another bathroom, use that for about a week to let the ceiling paint job cure. If you can't shower with a fan on to get the moisture out of the room, and allow at the very least one day dry time before using the bathroom again.
 
I would also take a look at your bathroom fan. Contractor grade fans move very little air. Consider replacing it with one that will really suck the steam out quickly.
 
Originally Posted By: spasm3
I would also take a look at your bathroom fan. Contractor grade fans move very little air. Consider replacing it with one that will really suck the steam out quickly.


That will help a lot.
thumbsup2.gif
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

P
  • Locked
Bathroom nail pop repair mystery
2
Replies
24
Views
10K
demarpaint
Back
Top Bottom