I would say it’s worth a try, just like it was already suggested, cover the grill, not the bottom opening and remember to remove the cover when it warms up.
covering the radiator opening for heat
- Thread starter Nayov
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Just connect a scan tool and monitor engine temps for a few days. That will tell you everything you want to know.
So explain why the shutters remain closed on my 2016 F150 until the antifreeze reaches 185 F ?
Some confusing responses here. I'm not sure why anyone is mentioning the thermostat at all. The point of the partial grill block is faster warm up. Irrelevant to the thermostat.
When I had a mirage and was on the mirage forum there were a decent amount of people there running home made coroplast grill blocks (skip carboard it will get soggy). The cabin heat was fairly weak and it helped the cars maintain operating temperature in extreme cold.
When I had a mirage and was on the mirage forum there were a decent amount of people there running home made coroplast grill blocks (skip carboard it will get soggy). The cabin heat was fairly weak and it helped the cars maintain operating temperature in extreme cold.
They are closed when ever you don’t NEED airflow to cool the engine..
Like: exactly when the coolant is below 185, no airflow needed.
They also close at high speed cruise when full airflow is not needed.
When the thermostat is closed during warmup…you don’t need airflow thru the radiator, as there is no hot water from the block circulating there. Modern 195 degree or similar thermostats should warm you up pronto If they don’t you have a defective or poorly designed cooling system.
Grill slats open and close as needed to cool the radiator and reduce drag at speed.
Manufacturers want them closed to warm the engine up more rapidly to engage the cats and bring other fluids up to temp faster - witness the use of coolant/trans fluid coolers on Ford 10 speeds as an example.
Also, the shutters on my F150 are never "closed" except for when cold starting. They are otherwise cracked open in cruise 10-15%, and always 1/3rd ish when temps are 35 F or colder (after warming up to 185 F).
You can argue its only because airflow isn't needed. It is also possible the manufacturer wants the heat for other purposes...
Fair enough. Even if we assume zero coolant flow through the engine, limiting super cold (-20F ) air at 70mph on the highway would likely increase ambient temps in the engine bay.
Radiator shutters are also implemented for aerodynamics. They make the air go around the car instead of through it, which greatly reduces aerodynamic drag. Then the increased rad temps are used to run the engine on the lean side, further adding to fuel savings.
In the end, it’s all done to increase their EPA mpg ratings, not to help with any particular problem with engine thermals. Good old thermostats have managed that quite well.
In the end, it’s all done to increase their EPA mpg ratings, not to help with any particular problem with engine thermals. Good old thermostats have managed that quite well.
We used to use cardboard or custom covers back in the 90's and earlier when it would get close to -40 and we had to drive. At those temps the vehicles generally wouldn't warm up properly even with extended driving and even if they had been plugged in.
Now, that's not so much of a problem and it's not nearly as common.
Now, that's not so much of a problem and it's not nearly as common.
Being your first winter with the Fit, you haven't owned it very long. Do an oil analysis first. If the oil analysis reveals oil dilution, running just the one interval without mitigation is not going to wear out the engine. Also, longer drives once in a while might solve the problem better. You seem aware that blocking off some cooling capacity has the potential to cause other problems.
Put it this way: if you block off some of the cooling capacity and think, "There I fixed the oil dilution problem," how do you know there was a problem to begin with? Did the previous owner tell you about it? Or are you simply taking action based on what the internet says about common issues with this engine/vehicle?
Too many people trying to solve problems that don't exist. I suggest you confirm that there is indeed a problem, and go from there.
My $0.02
Put it this way: if you block off some of the cooling capacity and think, "There I fixed the oil dilution problem," how do you know there was a problem to begin with? Did the previous owner tell you about it? Or are you simply taking action based on what the internet says about common issues with this engine/vehicle?
Too many people trying to solve problems that don't exist. I suggest you confirm that there is indeed a problem, and go from there.
My $0.02
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