Cost of Honda Ownership

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Does it generally cost more to have a Honda serviced compared to other makes?

On some recent threads they talked of a $700 dollar timing belt service.

I like Hondas and many brag about their great resell value. But, you pay a premium price up front to buy them, and, it seems very costly to service them. So, in the end, are you really ahead?
 
Honda reslae value is the biggest bit of idiocy that I have ever seen. Absolutely ridiculous, and it does nothing good for the average consumer.

Anyway, my GF has an acura integra. All together between the two of us, we own 5 cars, so I know a good bit about maintenance costs, etc. She has gotten service on the car from both Acura and a local convenient Honda dealer. All in all, I have no reason to feel that the repairs are any more expensive than on any other car. Most cars will cost you $4-600 for a timing belt service... depending on where you go (e.g. a service department in a large city like NYC or LA), its sure to be 20% higher.

The issue with Honda products that I have found is that they are made with inferior grade plastics and rubbers. At about 10 years or so, most all of the rubbery parts in a Honda product, including the trim pieces, etc., will be heavily oxidized, and in desperate need of repair. this is very much UNLIKE that of, for example, Toyota. Other brands obviously use better grades of rubber and plastics. As an example, my 83 MB still has the original plastic radiator and hoses... Id like to see a Honda owner with an original radiator after 10 years.

Theyre great cars, dont get me wrong, and theyll run and run and last and last... but youll pay to replace some stuff. Likely its a wash in the end, if you can buy a honda product in a good deal - which is the key - it doesnt seem that many dealers feel the need to negotiate.

JMH
 
quote:

The issue with Honda products that I have found is that they are made with inferior grade plastics and rubbers. At about 10 years or so, most all of the rubbery parts in a Honda product, including the trim pieces, etc., will be heavily oxidized, and in desperate need of repair. this is very much UNLIKE that of, for example, Toyota.

I think this really depends on where you live and how well you maintain the vehicle. My 1991 Prelude has extremely good condition plastic/trim, while my wife's parents' 1994 and 1996 Toyota Corollas (California cars) have the trim along the roof literally falling off because it rotted apart and the climate control panels falling apart.
 
JHZ:

quote:

Id like to see a Honda owner with an original radiator after 10 years.

Cheating a bit but I have 22yrs out of '84 Accord metal rad.

As per original question, I've only had to take my Accord into for engine work once in 8yrs so it's hard to gauge costs. I do know some of the OEM parts are ridiculously priced—often for no apparent reason (IE better quality).

Since I've bought a Volvo I realize many folks automatically think you are Joe MoneyBags and will charge accordingly ... so Volvo is worse. At least in my area.

I'd think with better Honda reliabilty but more expensive parts still would put the consumer financially ahead vs Big 3. That's an opinion.
 
Yeah that initial hit of $27K was kinda nasty
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I'd like to chime in and throw my experiences and opinions out.

From 98 to late 2005, I owned nothing but GM vehicles- 2 Full Size Trucks, a Lumina and a Vega, Choke, cough, hack, I mean a Trailblazer EXT. We gave away the money pit, I mean Lumina and bought the Pinto, I mean Trailblazer. Gave away the Trailblazer and bought a 2005 Accord EX-L 4 cylinder in August of 2005. A week before Katrina.

With regards to re-sale- We bought a brand-spanking NEW Accord because we could do that versus pay $1500 less for one that was a year old with 14,000 miles. Wife was tired of pumping $250 per month into the Trailblazer, so Mama wasn't happy, ain't nobody happy, so we traded. Book value on my 2005 Accord is about $1000 less than what we paid for it in August. Try that with a GM, Ford, Chrysler. Even a Toyota or Nissan. Might get close on an Altima.

I was still driving my 2000 Chevy Silverado and had been looking for a small car to drive daily to stop putting miles on my truck. I liked the truck, but it was 5 years old with 100k miles on it and if I was going to keep it, I wanted to save some mileage on it.

I had been looking for a $2-3,000 car. Wanted another Accord after just owning the new one 2 weeks. Looked and looked. Of course, Katrina had come and gone and gas was $3 a gallon. Small cars were selling like popcorn at the movies.

I searched 1990-93 Accords. Kinda wanted one of them due to the pleasing body style. Most every one I saw had near or over 200k miles on them and was commanding $3,000. Three grand for a 12+ year old car that had 200k miles on it.

I moved up to 94-95 models. Most carrying a $3800-5000 price tag, all over 100k miles, most 130-175k miles. I assure you everyone of them needed brakes, tires, who knows when the timing belt was replaced, never mind the last oil change.

I found a 95, 133K miles, new tires, and yes, it still needs rotors and pads. Oil was probably changed whenever a brick fell on the poor boy's head that owned it. Needs a new windsheild. Previous owner said the timing and other belts were replaced at 90k. Yep, they were. But the cheap idiot neglected to let the shop replace $25 worth of seals. And it appears through the 18 different shades of blue on the thing that its been in a few wrecks. No matter, the title is clean.

I gave $3000 for it. I've put about $50 in oil changes, $550 in a timing belt, seal and fuel filter job. I need to get the rotors and pads changed. Little vibration at 60+ mph on the brake pedal. It's an EX model with the VTEC engine, 5-speed, sunroof, all the goodies, and THEY WORK. Unlike the GM's, Ford's, etc., 10-year old vehicles with those accessories.

Cost of maintenance-

The 7th gen Accords with the 4 cyl iVTEC engines have timing chains. No belt. The ONLY engine maintenance is spark plugs at 110k miles, along with a valve lash inspection/adjustment.

Oil changes are $15 with 4.8 quarts of $1.80 oil and a $6 filter, and you can get by with a 5,000 OCI on a clean engine.

Auto transmission fluid is easily changed on the 4 cyl. Drain, refill with 3 quarts. Drive down the road, drain. Refill, drive down the road. Drain, refill. Drive, drain and refill one more time. Do that every 30k miles. $36 DIY.

I did a 7,500 mile tire rotation/brake inspection on our 05. No differentiation in tire wear between the rear and front. Brake wear looks nil.

Fuel mileage with ours is about 23.5 in city/hill climbing, 31-33 highway at 75 mph or so.

The 4 cylinder is STRONG. It won't walk off and leave something, but the torque added by the iVTEC is impressive while climbing grades.

The 2005 Accord is a fine piece of automobile engineering. It works. Like it's supposed to.

That Trailblazer/Envoy that GM is selling is a complete Frankenstein in my opinion.

I liked my 2000 Chevy with the 5.3L engine. But at 100k miles, it needed a severe laundry list of items fixed. Probably totaled somewhere near $2,000.

Sticker on the Silverado was $27,800. 5-1/2 years later at 100k miles it Black Booked at $8700.

1995 Honda Accord EX sold for about $15,800. 10-1/2 years later with 133k miles it was worth $3500 or more.

Find me a 1995 Chevy Lumina that you can sell for $3,000. Sticker on them was probably more than the Accord, with fewer features.
 
JHZ,

I've got a 10+ year old 1995 Accord with the original radiator, had the original fuel filter.

The orginal water pump was replaced at 137k miles with the timing belt job that cost me $465, including ALL Honda Geniune Parts (4 belts, 5 seals, a seal retainer, water pump, and LABOR).

Original PS pump and alternator still on it, A/C compressor still work great.
 
Well, you just proved that the timing belt job isnt all that expensive... the job on my GF's integra was about the same price.

njc - you need to know where to look, and who to deal with. Ive had a LOT of MB service done at the dealership, and often the prices are roughly the same as if I had my indy do it. Parts can be had from OEM sources at very good prices if you know where to buy. After 2 MBs, a BMW and a Saab (still own all of them), I am convinced that you can own and maintain them perfectly and fully without spending an arm and leg... ditto for the toyota and Mitsubishi (and some acura) parts that Ive bought for those cars.

thooks: Id hope your A/C comp, PS pump and alternator still work... the AC on my 83 MB still is original and blows cold... in fact my parents and I have never had any issues since we've owned cars with A/C (last 20 years or so)... but we run our AC in the wintertime, which I think is the difference.

JMH
 
thooks, you brought up the other important point to the cost of Honda ownership: the excellent retail value.

And it's not a supply issue as there are a heap of mid 90's Hondas available but folks know 200K miles is reasonable if car has been well maintained. Considering my maintenance/depreciation costs on my '84 Accord has been day for 8yrs driving over 65K miles. I bought it 140K miles and it now has 205K. I have done most of the work on the vehicle but there hasn't been much to do! In that 65K miles the only non-maintenance items were: fuel pump and master cyl.

Granted now it is an underpowered rusting P0S but continues to get great gas mileage and is still cheap to operate. Roughly the same cost as transit, minus the time I spend working on car.

Of the 10-20 GM cars I've owned/serviced plus one European car and one Toyota, the Honda has been the best. Enough flag waving from me.
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JHZ,

A/C still works, as does the PS and Alternator. I use 2 of the three everyday. I use the A/C to un-fog the windows about 2-5 days a week during the Winter. Probably needs a shot of 134a.

Pablo,

Make an appointment with the radiator shop for July 2018.
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To have it flushed for the 2nd time.
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I wouldnt be so sure of that if they source the odessey radiators from the same place that they source integra radiators...

Ive known more than a few friends who have had integras with OEM radiators that have develloped cracks early
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My GF has an all metal radiator in there, and its been great since
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JMH
 
JHZ,

I'm pretty sure the Integras were and are still built in Japan.

His Odyssey van was built in Lincoln, AL. The radiator was more than likely built somewhere in the US.
 
JHZ, West coast auto prices are definitely more ... coupled with very expensive local Volvo prices. I guess it's low supply keeping the price up. Our whole province only has 3-4 million people.

Check out local prices. I selected 1994 Volvo and sorted by price; http://tinyurl.com/7wscc

divide by 1.2 to get USD.
 
I have no faith in plastic anywhere, I have had Mercedes trim falling off as well as Honda so its wrong to say who uses inferior or superior plastic, Honda part are expensive, so is MB and BMW, but all of them are well designed and with proper maintenance, they outlast their counterparts.
 
quote:

I'm pretty sure the Integras were and are still built in Japan.

I know my GF's was... didnt help the quality of that crucial part though...

The rest of the car has been good.

quote:

JHZ, West coast auto prices are definitely more ... coupled with very expensive local Volvo prices. I guess it's low supply keeping the price up. Our whole province only has 3-4 million people.

I have no doubt that west coast stuff is pricey, and I have no doubt that its worse up north, as there are higher taxes, etc. My point really was that if you know where to get parts (thanks to the internet), and youre a decent DIY or have a good indy, you can get work done MUCH cheaper than expected, regardless of marque. From personal experience, I can say that most parts, similar part to similar part is nearly the same price whether its a domestic or a euro or a Japanese car. I cant say for sure about parts sourced to Canada though... however I assume worldpac ships up there too...

JMH
 
if you can manage to do a timing belt job by youreself, you save probably $600 in labor.

for my crv, i am planning on doing a timing belt soon. the belt, waterpump, tensioner crank and cam seals all cost under $100 total.
i didnt go with factory parts, rather aftermarket good quality made in japan parts.

i dont plan on replacing the accessory belts as they look so good even after 80K miles. none of the belts have even needed to be tensioned. i figure ill just keep an eye on them. besides, if a belt breaks, it would only stop power from going to 1 of things, the alt, ps, or a/c because honda uses 1 belt for each accessory item.
 
I had the timing belt in my '95 Civic replaced last year for under $250, including labor. Not too expensive IMO.

As far as trim goes, yes, it does seem rather 'cheap' but the quality of the mechanical essentials are VASTLY more important to me.

They say you can get 300K miles out of these cars, I'm gonna try and get more... with LC20, FP60 and Auto-Rx of course!
 
Only thing wrong with that Master Acid is you left out the Balance shaft belt.

And the oil pump seal, along with another seal and seal retaining kit.

$600 in labor? Dang, the Honda dealerships don't even charge that much. I think it's a 4.3 hour job.

As far as the aftermarket parts being better, I'll keep to negotiating with the Honda dealers on parts I replace every 90k miles.
 
On my 1996 Integra, the radiator lasted until last summer, when it started to leak. With heat index down here of 110 some summer days, that's not bad considering the car had around 110,000 miles on it. This is the only problem I have ever had with this car. BTW, I had the timing belt, drive belts and water pump changed three years ago, the bill was $429, at the Acura dealership
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