I think the key to a good fluid exchange is draining the pan (sump) first. Most of the machine specs/info seem to presuppose not dumping the pan first. My estimate (WAG) is that if you do that, you are doing upwards of 90% on my cars). The method SHOZ outlined above... pumping the unit dry, refilling and pump until clean fluid comes out... may be just as good. I prefer as little mixing as possible.
At least on the cars I own, if I want to replace all the fluid, the cooler line exchange is the most efficacious. It's done in 30 minutes. I have easy access to the cooler lines. In the case of my blue F150, I installed a valve on the line and can put a hose on it and run it into a jug or pan.
I'm pretty much at 100K OCIs on my trucks now because I have such good filtration on them (two filters each now) and use a premium fluid. Last time I spot checked the oil cleanliness it was 13/6 on the F150 (it also has a deep pan which adds nearly five quarts of oil to the system). No signs of oxidation either (good coolers).
The 2000 Honda Accord (from which you can only get 3.1 quarts from the drain from a total system capacity of 7.6 quarts, about 40 percent) normally got a D&F every other oil change and a full exchange at 60K. That was overkill according to my UOAs, despite how the fluid looked (Z1 gets dark fast). SInce I added a cooler line filter, I adopted a 50-60K interval tentatively. When the car hits 100K total miles this year, I am going to do an exchange, UOA the oil (it will have 40-50K on it) replace the inline filter and likely go 60K if the oil checks out good (if Z1 checks out good at that interval, it's logical to assume something better will hold up better). The exact replacement oil is TBD... I have the obligatory agonizing period to finish before I pull the trigger on the best right choice.