Coolant Line Blew & drove car ....engine damage?

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Okay I was at a light and a major one piece cooling assembly (180$ from parts counter) blew. Instead of standard rubber hoses, it uses rubber, steel and plastic fittings in a bulky assembly.

My temp gauge maxed soon after.

I drove the vehicle at minimum rpm (less than 35mph) 10 mins to a shop less than 3 miles away. I would coast as much as possible as well.

The fitting burst at the water pump neck. Does that mean there was no water in the coolant jackets? Or could the coolant jacket water level below the pump intake have even boiled off in the interim??

The engine "seems" to run fine. How likely is it that a have caused major damage to my engine? The car is filled with 5W30 M1. No visible "black" is in the oil or ATF.

The engine is a GM 3800 Series II. It does not have the LS1 engine type capability to pump air through the cylinders for emergency cooling in water loss situation that I suffered.
 
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Change the oil, nice new coolant and see what happens.

I was just looking at a post where someones brother lost there coolant, and drove 20 min. overheated with mobil 1 in the crank. They said all is well.
 
why, why, why???

It the temp gauge goes to max, turn it off... period.

MAYBE you can turn it on for a bit after it goes fully cold. Even then I wouldnt.

If you could nurse it below max, you might be OK... but if you hit max, thats no good.

Id bet there is some damage as a result (e.g. warped head). NEVER drive with no coolant/temp at max unless you have a limp-home mode or the engine has fully cooled, and then Id still watch it and try to fix/fill the problem as best as possible.

If it still runs OK for sure (through all speeds, etc.) then Id replace ALL fluids to be 100% sure.
 
Without head removal how can I inspect for head warpage? I know a local reputable engine uilder, but he needs a lot of down time for anything.


There is no water in the coolant or blown gaskets. Would not warped heads cause a bad main gasket seal?

The coolant was BG flushed after the line assbly replacement. Oil is also new.
 
A pressure test of the cooling system would reveal a leak. Pulling the spark plugs and doing a compression test would also diagnose a blown head gasket. If a plug is steam cleaned or you smell anti freeze in the exhaust are also trouble signs. If the system has been repaired, carefully monitor coolant for loss. You may have gotten lucky.
 
When my temp guage hits the over heat section,I will shut the motor down and call a tow truck.
Aluminum engine parts and low coolant cost slightly more to replace than a tow.

Too late now,just drive the thing,and stop worrying.
 
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Since when is the Series II made out of aluminum?

These engines are fairly bulletproof. Sure running without coolant isn't a wise decision, but I'd be surprised if there were any major failures provided operation was SHORT and not under heavy loads. The oil still helps keep things cool for a short time. Cast iron block and heads can withstand a lot of heat. If this were an aluminum head engine (I don't recall the 3800 being one), you might consider checking compression and leak testing the cooling system.
 
Yes, the research I have done on my engine says it is cast iron block and heads.

AFAIK, a pressure test was done before the BG Coolant Exchange Service.

I think after my next ARX clean or spark plug replacement I will have a compression and leak down test done on each cylinder. I hope this engine is as stout as they say they are. It is bone stock without NO2 or force air feeding. Hopefully the compression test will show the real wear at the ring level that has happened .... and answer if I have been spared head damage. Thanks. Now on unless it is life or death, a tow truck it is.
 
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You were warned, and you ignored it.
That said, the car will probably be OK.
I'd keep a close eye on all systems for a few months, until I was dead sure it was back to normal.
 
Yep ..no sense worrying about it now. Just go about your business while watching for leading economic destroyers. Definitely Auto-Rx it. There is surely coke in the rings. See dNewton3's Auto-Rx experience.

Cast iron has always been forgiving for me ..traditionally anyway. Most of the horror is due to the mixed alloy setups. You over heat an aluminum head ..you're almost assured of issues.
 
Originally Posted By: XCELERATIONRULES
When my temp guage hits the over heat section,I will shut the motor down and call a tow truck.
Aluminum engine parts and low coolant cost slightly more to replace than a tow.



Exactly! A tow is maybe $100 to the nearest shop.....
crazy2.gif
 
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