Coolant filter

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I have two Jeeps an XJ and ZJ with 4.0L cast iron block. The XJ I installed a Wix bypass type coolant filter on the return heater hose from the heater core.

Due to the 4.0L engine block not being made from alum. there appears to be more iron and metal build up than normal in coolant and cooling system passages of the radiator and engine block.

Both of my Jeeps the heater core always has coolant flowing through it as there are no heater core coolant valve(s) such as some of the older Jeeps have. Heat is controlled through a blend door.

So I suspect using this type of coolant filter with spin on filter is able to filter finer particles down to the rating of the spin on filters of which most are at around ~25 microns.

The inline coolant filter such as from Champion with a cleanable filter screen isn't able to filter smaller particles because It would cause too much coolant flow restriction.

I e-mailed Champion asking about specs for their inline coolant filtering and was told that he put in a request for filter specs and would get back with me.

His guess looking at the filtering screen he said appears to be 1/32 of inch.

1/32 in. is equal to .0312 in. = .793 mm

0.0311 inches = US Mesh 20 = 840 microns

So a 1/32 in. (mesh 20) screen equals approx. 840 microns

Anyway I'm wondering if anyone has had any experience with the Champion inline coolant filter?

https://www.championradiators.com/product/Filter6461

I'm looking at one on eBay for the ZJ 4.0L that runs approx. $62.00 with free shipping.

or I may just find another filter kit such as from Wix for approx. $37.00 and save a few dollars.

The bypass coolant filter, filters a smaller percentage of the coolant over longer periods of time.
 
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Wix 24019 filter base and 24070 long or 24069 short coolant filter.

Stay away from 24071-24075 coolant filters, they have additive inside them...

Look on RockAuto for best price...
 
Hi,
I hope somebody can diagnose your problem so that you can find the cheap, longterm and easy solution.
I personally think coolant filters should be unnecessary.
Cheers,
Iain.
 
If you have a cast iron engine, that has had neglected green coolant in it, it is pretty difficult to get ALL the rust & silicate out of it without a coolant filter. Unless you want to pull it, tear it down, and hot tank everything. The amount of junk that came out of the F-450 in my sig was incredible, coolant filter looked like a sandbox.
 
Originally Posted by mattwithcats
Wix 24019 filter base and 24070 long or 24069 short coolant filter.

Stay away from 24071-24075 coolant filters, they have additive inside them...

Look on RockAuto for best price...


I have no additives spin on filters, common length, I picked up (various brands) from eBay for ~$8.00 each. Which is approx. the same as RockAuto's WIX 24070, but seem to remember got the new coolant filters from eBay because the shipping was free.

RockAuto has some great prices and purchased alot form them over the years but their shipping cost do add up. You can sometimes get the exact same automotive product at around the same price as Rock Auto from eBay or Amazon with free shipping.

I don't believe these filters requires changing that often unless the coolant is very dirty. I've been aiming for around every ~25,000 miles. This type of filter was designed I think primarily for trucks, fleet vehicles, etc. that going to be running everyday under different types of conditions.

Yes it should be unnecessary to filter the coolant on passenger vehicles. However my two jeeps with 4.0L engine, one has 203,000 miles and the other 227,000 miles. neither has been rebuilt. The 4.0L in Jeeps normally get at least 300,000 miles. There was on person, original Jeep Cherokee owner that has over 450,000 on a 4.0L without any major overhauls.

I guess in part I installed the filter thinking the coolant will last a bit longer before needing to be changed. I don't run the green stuff. Been running Zerex GO-5 Hybrid Organic Acid Technology (HOAT) antifreeze. I don't ever neglect the coolant but try to get as many miles as possible.

I periodically perform electrolysis test on the coolant which seems to have improved after installing the coolant filter.

I found a fairly good deal on eBay for a dozen Amsoil 15K filters and a dozen Mobil One 15K filters for $8.00 each (with free shipping.)

I remember RockAuto closeout had some good quality Ford air filers for around $1.50 each, total cost was around ~2.50 each after shipping for a dozen.
 
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Originally Posted by Linctex
Originally Posted by albert001

So a 1/32 in. (mesh 20) screen equals approx. 840 microns
Anyway I'm wondering if anyone has had any experience with the Champion inline coolant filter?
https://www.championradiators.com/product/Filter6461


That one is for 1.5 inch hose!!!!!!!


Yeah I would need to measure as I've not really ever worked on the ZJ that uses a different rad than the XJ. So far I've only needed to replace it starter. The ZJ runs great, starts right, no problems. It has 3.73 axles and better fuel economy than the XJ with 3.53 diffs.

Rock Auto shows the upper hose to be 1-1/4" x 1-1/2" x 23" , the inline filter is usually installed somewhere on the upper hose.

I don't think the Champion inline filter to be that great of a deal at around $65.00. I think it only filters down to ~850 microns which is fairly large in comparison to ~25 microns.
 
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I found a Wix Kit on eBay, came to just under $40.00 with tax and shipping.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/333045411874

I have spare spin on coolant filters and I think it should perform better than an inline filter.

The ZJ has some good green antifreeze, perhaps the filter will give it some more life. When it requires to be changed I'll probably go with the Hoat antifreeze that has a 5 year service life rating.
 
Hi,
Quote for 1.5" filter:

"Note: Failure to maintain your filter could lead to
a loss of flow and potential overheating. The glass
design makes inspecting your filter hassle free."

Why fit something that if functions; the flow is stopped?
Cheers,
Iain.

PS. I run a small glass fuel filter in a low flow mode. If it blocks cooling is better!
Cheers,
Iain.
 
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Originally Posted by SpitFire6
Hi,
Quote for 1.5" filter:

"Note: Failure to maintain your filter could lead to
a loss of flow and potential overheating. The glass
design makes inspecting your filter hassle free."

Why fit something that if functions; the flow is stopped?
Cheers,
Iain.

PS. I run a small glass fuel filter in a low flow mode. If it blocks cooling is better!
Cheers,
Iain.


That's interesting so you were able to fit a low flow fuel filter on the radiator hose that filters the coolant? No problems with coolant flow? If blocking helps to increase cooling efficiency? I might give that a try. What sort of fuel filter and adapters did you use?

I ended up ordering the Wix bypass coolant filter that installs on a heater hose and uses spin-on filters. If something becomes plugged the only thing would effect would be the coolant to and from the heater core. Filters to around 25 microns.

I stocked up on some Valvolineâ„¢ ZEREXâ„¢ G-05 full concentrate anti-freeze, ordered from Walmart if you order more than one gallon the shipping is free. The Walmart seller is Zoro.

I know it more than the green stuff but does have a better max. life rating of 5 years vs 3 years for the green. $14.58 a gallon. I probably should of stock up on it back when it was around $11.00 - $12.00 / gallon. I ordered six gallons and the ZJ coolant capacity is 12 quarts 50/50). So all that's needed is to add 6 quarts of distilled water. What nice about anti-freeze it doesn't have a shelf life if left sealed and unopened. So you can stock up on it.

If I can stretch the coolant to it's maximum that would be only 6 quarts of coolant needed every 5 years.

Perhaps I should have got Super Tech Antifreeze/Coolant, 1 Gallon for ~$10.00 / gallon it's rated for 5 years 150,000 miles. However I'm uncertain how it compares to Zerex G0-5 which is a HOAT antifreeze with chemistry to be used in Chrysler vehicles. I'd need to take a closer look to determine if the chemistries are the same or similar.

The problem I have with coolants that claim to be comparible with all colors and type of coolant is they can cause problem in come vehicles. So I normally get a Zerex that been certified to use with certain vehicle makes such as Chrysler. I don't know many it would work in the Jeep OK, but have successfully ben using Zerex G0-5 with any problems. Some of the Green antifreeze I've had problems with it as it just wouldn't last very long and turned brown.


Zerex G0-5 https://www.walmart.com/ip/ZEREX-An...TY_7uhFdVnMpVBnfi9ixSOKV1w4aAvC4EALw_wcB

Supertech https://www.walmart.com/ip/Super-Tech-Antifreeze-Coolant-1-Gallon/16645420
 
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Hi,
My 6mm inlet barbs, glass/metal cleanable fuel filter is fitted in bypass mode. Inlet to top of radiator and outlet to expansion tank that is connected to suction on the pump.
A very strong N42 high-temperature magnet in the expansion tank, when removed with a large iron screwdriver, is always covered with black ferrous rust. Brown too.

Drop a magnet in your coolant tank.
The only harm is that it causes the coolant properties to change due to the strong magnetic field. LOL. Non-ferrous block and head implementation would be folly.

Cheers,
Iain.
 
I've used the NAPA 4070 filter as a full flow filter in a heater hose line by using a drill to open the orifice in the center tube all of the way and then installing normally.

Obviously you don't have to be concerned about the plastic swarf, because you can literally just wash it out with water.

I tested flow with the heater hose off while running the engine. If it is reducing flow, I can't tell.

Most heater cores have a restrictor in the hose anyway to protect it from overpressure due to high rpms, so I wouldn't worry too much about it. Just change it when the heat starts to get too cool. It's a great final solution to block all solids above filter rating from ever touching the core.

I did this for a Blazer that repeatedly kept choking it's heater core after multiple flushes. Went on to choke 5 coolant filters instead. 6th one has been going for 12k miles, and the heat works great.
 
Originally Posted by DoubleWasp
I've used the NAPA 4070 filter as a full flow filter in a heater hose line by using a drill to open the orifice in the center tube all of the way and then installing normally.

Obviously you don't have to be concerned about the plastic swarf, because you can literally just wash it out with water.

I tested flow with the heater hose off while running the engine. If it is reducing flow, I can't tell.

Most heater cores have a restrictor in the hose anyway to protect it from overpressure due to high rpms, so I wouldn't worry too much about it. Just change it when the heat starts to get too cool. It's a great final solution to block all solids above filter rating from ever touching the core.

I did this for a Blazer that repeatedly kept choking it's heater core after multiple flushes. Went on to choke 5 coolant filters instead. 6th one has been going for 12k miles, and the heat works great.

FYI The Fleetguard cross the WF2107 does not have the plastic restrictior, and relies on the head having one.
 
Oh really? Well that makes life easier.
grin.gif
 
Originally Posted by DoubleWasp
Oh really? Well that makes life easier.
grin.gif


Yeah I bought like 6 off a internet seller, the price wasnt unreasonable. I think I paid less per unit counting shipping, than a Wix off Amazon Prime. That was my primary reason was trying to find something less costly. The restrictor non-find was a complete accident.
 
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