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Coolant filter?
- Thread starter ron350
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I'm unaware of any "full flow" coolant filters. I guess you don't need the heat if it chokes the flow too much. I really don't see a reason why you couldn't use an oil filter for the task. All the coolant heads have really small ports. They run like bypass filters across the heat circuit (or their own return to some place on the block.
I've seen in line mesh type filters, but I don't have a source.
For the WIX coolant filters you need the 24019 filter base. I'd recommend a filter with no chemicals in it like the 24070. At this point you're into $30 at fleet filter. Lots more at the local NAPA. You can get the plastic tee fittings at the local NAPA.
I've seen in line mesh type filters, but I don't have a source.
For the WIX coolant filters you need the 24019 filter base. I'd recommend a filter with no chemicals in it like the 24070. At this point you're into $30 at fleet filter. Lots more at the local NAPA. You can get the plastic tee fittings at the local NAPA.
Run a cleaner through it first, but there are lots of coolant filters out there. Just have to find the head. Donaldson has a 3/8"NPT head that takes the standard 11/16" filters (P174766) and the mounting bracket (P174767).
With that you have a choice of 0 to 15 units of SCA on 6 different filters with a 50% efficiency at 20µ. Starting with the P554685 without SCA, designed for use when you change the antifreeze.
You can navigate by "attributes" on the Donaldson Dynamic site.
They use the test strips to see what additive depletion you have a few months into the coolant and choose a filter with the right amount of replacement.
With that you have a choice of 0 to 15 units of SCA on 6 different filters with a 50% efficiency at 20µ. Starting with the P554685 without SCA, designed for use when you change the antifreeze.
You can navigate by "attributes" on the Donaldson Dynamic site.
They use the test strips to see what additive depletion you have a few months into the coolant and choose a filter with the right amount of replacement.
Originally Posted By: ron350
Thank you Gary.
My 96 Regal has rust in the block from Dexcool and no mater how I flush it I still have rusty water.
Your cooling system is not keeping air out of the system, and might have leaks. You need a heavy duty cooling sytem cleaner. Maybe a new pressure cap like the Stant 10230 spring-center. And switch to original green or G-05.
Thank you Gary.
My 96 Regal has rust in the block from Dexcool and no mater how I flush it I still have rusty water.
Your cooling system is not keeping air out of the system, and might have leaks. You need a heavy duty cooling sytem cleaner. Maybe a new pressure cap like the Stant 10230 spring-center. And switch to original green or G-05.
No air leak every thing is new from the lower intake gaskets to the radiator cap.
Have 2 gallons of G-05 after flushing with every over the counter flush I could find.
No left over old coolant after 20 warm up and water flush cycles. No telling how many gallons of water I flushed through the system in both directions.
This thread is about removing the rust from my cooling system nothing else.
Have 2 gallons of G-05 after flushing with every over the counter flush I could find.
No left over old coolant after 20 warm up and water flush cycles. No telling how many gallons of water I flushed through the system in both directions.
This thread is about removing the rust from my cooling system nothing else.
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Coolant filters can be acquired at most truck/diesel engine shops. Lots of trucks/tractors/loaders/etc. have a separately mounted base for a spin-on coolant filter. You have to be careful which filter you buy, as lots of them are 'pre-charged' with an SCA coolant additive. It won't really hurt your G05 (some versions of G05 actually come with SCA additives), but it isn't necessary and I probably wouldn't want it in an automotive application.
These filter bases are common on most Detroit, Cummins, and Caterpillar engines... and on the larger John Deere engines. No reason you couldn't make one work on a car if that's what you want. I've seen them on ebay occasionally.
These filter bases are common on most Detroit, Cummins, and Caterpillar engines... and on the larger John Deere engines. No reason you couldn't make one work on a car if that's what you want. I've seen them on ebay occasionally.
Yes, they should be common in a truck/tractor salvage yard. And lots of diesel engines use a small, simple, bolt-on base with rubber hoses running to it- the sort of setup that could be installed pretty much anywhere.
Personally, I'd probably just get one off ebay though. Just search "coolant filter base" and at least one result will come up.
Personally, I'd probably just get one off ebay though. Just search "coolant filter base" and at least one result will come up.
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The source I found on ebay was charging more than fleetfiler did, even with accounting for S&H. Luckily, I bought a couple for $2.95+ a ways back.
Some coolant filters are EXTREMELY expensive. Always compare with Fleetfilter's prices ..for a comparison, hit up filtermart.com
Some coolant filters are EXTREMELY expensive. Always compare with Fleetfilter's prices ..for a comparison, hit up filtermart.com
I plan to put a coolant filter setup on my Jeep once I find a spot to mount it. I'm planning to use a dual filter oil filter relocation kit (parallel filters for less restriction) and plumb it into the heater core hoses with a pair of FL-1A size filters on there. I think I've seen oil filters used for coolant before, and, as Gary Allan said, they should work fine in theory.
there is really no need for two, coolant filters are plumbed as a bypass only
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I think it will mean that he'll manage the initial cleaning quicker.
One co-benefit might be that you would know when it was time to change the filters out if you started to lose your heat.
One co-benefit might be that you would know when it was time to change the filters out if you started to lose your heat.
It would give me more time between changes, as Gary said. Plus, I plan to plumb them full flow in the heater circuit, not as a bypass.
Fortunately, if I do the install in the next few months, the system should be clean-ish to start with, as I'm in the midst of a thorough flush and fill now.
Fortunately, if I do the install in the next few months, the system should be clean-ish to start with, as I'm in the midst of a thorough flush and fill now.
I just did some research, and it looks like this mount setup would work nicely for a full flow setup. I'd probably use a pair of PL30001 Pureones on there.
Being that these mounts have -10AN fittings, not the typical 1/2" found on most of the (far less expensive) more common mounts, I can adapt this to my 5/8" heater hoses without needing to downsize, minimizing the flow restriction. I'd set up the 2 blocks in parallel, so each filter would only have to handle half the flow and collect half the junk in the system.
Derale Premium Dual Remote Oil Filter Mount
Being that these mounts have -10AN fittings, not the typical 1/2" found on most of the (far less expensive) more common mounts, I can adapt this to my 5/8" heater hoses without needing to downsize, minimizing the flow restriction. I'd set up the 2 blocks in parallel, so each filter would only have to handle half the flow and collect half the junk in the system.
Derale Premium Dual Remote Oil Filter Mount
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Originally Posted By: ron350
Looking for a coolant filter for my 96 Regal any recommendations.
I am looking for something to plumb in to the heater core line.
Apparently, NAPA sells a kit. It works as a bypass filter, using the heater hoses. The nice thing about their system is that there are various filters available, with different levels of SCA, from 0 on up. So, since it would be likely you wouldn't want any SCA, you could just use the zero level filter. It's probably a Wix filter, considering they supply NAPA's oil filters. Wix also makes loads of coolant filters, and there's probably a cross reference.
Looking for a coolant filter for my 96 Regal any recommendations.
I am looking for something to plumb in to the heater core line.
Apparently, NAPA sells a kit. It works as a bypass filter, using the heater hoses. The nice thing about their system is that there are various filters available, with different levels of SCA, from 0 on up. So, since it would be likely you wouldn't want any SCA, you could just use the zero level filter. It's probably a Wix filter, considering they supply NAPA's oil filters. Wix also makes loads of coolant filters, and there's probably a cross reference.
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Pretty fancy hardware. That's up there with Amsoil's mounts.
Interesting how they mate the two individual units with a swivel ORB (O ring boss) fitting.
..but ..thinking here..if they only give you one of those fittings, I don't think you can run in parallel. You only get to make one common rail. You can run them in series only ..if the fog in my head is light enough.
Interesting how they mate the two individual units with a swivel ORB (O ring boss) fitting.
..but ..thinking here..if they only give you one of those fittings, I don't think you can run in parallel. You only get to make one common rail. You can run them in series only ..if the fog in my head is light enough.
You could always hook them together with hoses, giving more mounting flexibility. Plus, I found a much cheaper option retaining the 3/4" 16 mount and -10 AN fittings: Perma-Cool Dual Filter Mount
This one is one unit, so that simplifies things.
This one is one unit, so that simplifies things.
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