Coolant drip?

[Mr.GTRSpecV]

I want to thank everyone for their input and insights. Truly appreciated.

I think there were two issues here. The first being as Japanese stated, the upper radiator hose was a bit loose, tightened that up and it stopped the leak (was able to follow the trail). The second issue here, was I was over filling the coolant reservoir a tad too much, when cold, so when the car heated up and the fluid came into the reservoir tank, it caused it to push past the full line and drip out the overfill tube.

 

[97prizm]

Hope you’re all well.

Was under the car (2004 Corolla) and noticed a little bit of coolant dripping, (first photo). I cleaned it up and didn’t see anything from the water pump.

I turned the car on and brought it up to temp, then the leak stopped and it was clear, no drip. Again nothing that I could see from the water pump. Any suggestions?

View attachment 274189View attachment 274190

I'd degrease the engine and power wash it. If nothing is obvious maybe a bad hose clamp.

 

[John105]

Funny, my LS430 has been sidelined with a radiator leak. I have the parts, just haven’t had time to swap in a new radiator. Not looking forward to the Toyota hose clamps…and need to remove the belly pan to see the transmission cooling lines and their tiny clamps

 

[crashz]

I've learned to love the constant tension spring clamps. At first I thought they were a cheap alternative to regular worm gear hose clamps, but after having to re-tighten them multiple times I like the one and done of the factory clamps. even more so now that I have the special pliers for them. Much easier to deal with. That old CRV was the education in hose clamps for me.

 

[Mr.GTRSpecV]

Well it’s back. But look at these pics, notice the coolant sitting there? It’s behind the alternator. Again it’s a 2004 Corolla and I checked it’s not the water pump since the leak is above that and sits behind the alternator

 

[The Critic]

Well it’s back. But look at these pics, notice the coolant sitting there? It’s behind the alternator. Again it’s a 2004 Corolla and I checked it’s not the water pump since the leak is above that and sits behind the alternator View attachment 305110View attachment 305111

It is most likely leaking from the thermostat housing. You can see it in this picture:

 

[Mr.GTRSpecV]

It is most likely leaking from the thermostat housing. You can see it in this picture:

View attachment 305179

Ah man, you could be right. . . I will take it in and see what the mechanic says. I've given up to be honest. I know it's not the wp as I had that checked already, so there's that.

It seems to leak more so in the cold weather more than anything else.

 

[Mr.GTRSpecV]

It is most likely leaking from the thermostat housing. You can see it in this picture:

View attachment 305179

Just wanted to add, thanks for this.

The thermostat sits below the alternator though. The coolant is sitting just behind the alternator (to the right) and and just above the thermostat housing. Could the thermostat leak cause it to pool up there, I doubt it but would want an opinion based on your picture. Could it in reality be a water pump leak? The seal could be failing, causing a leak from the back and causing it to pool behind the alternator.

I have circled the area where the coolant sits in the attached photo (Not my photo.)

 

[cjcride]

Water pump looks fine. If the new thermostat seal does not stop it I would guess the rad could have a leak

 

[Snagglefoot]

I want to thank everyone for their input and insights. Truly appreciated.

I think there were two issues here. The first being as Japanese stated, the upper radiator hose was a bit loose, tightened that up and it stopped the leak (was able to follow the trail). The second issue here, was I was over filling the coolant reservoir a tad too much, when cold, so when the car heated up and the fluid came into the reservoir tank, it caused it to push past the full line and drip out the overfill tube.

You have an overfill tube? You might check that again. A 2004 would probably have a sealed reservoir. A cracked reservoir is more likely.

 

[zzyzzx]

Does it have the original radiator? Isn't this one of those Toyota's famous for cracks in the plastic tank part (usually along the top) of the radiator? Or is there a date range for that common failure item?

 

[The Critic]

Just wanted to add, thanks for this.

The thermostat sits below the alternator though. The coolant is sitting just behind the alternator (to the right) and and just above the thermostat housing. Could the thermostat leak cause it to pool up there, I doubt it but would want an opinion based on your picture. Could it in reality be a water pump leak? The seal could be failing, causing a leak from the back and causing it to pool behind the alternator.

I have circled the area where the coolant sits in the attached photo (Not my photo.)

View attachment 305714

Paging @AKhan87 - he has built many of these engines and is probably more familiar.

 

[AKhan87]

Paging @AKhan87 - he has built many of these engines and is probably more familiar.

Finishing a rebuild for a MR2 as we speak.

View attachment 305714

that is your water by-pass gasket leaking, seems odd that the original one would leak unless someone reused it or the original one has slowly rusted out (seen many of them - am from the rustbelt area)

Water By-Pass Gasket
Toyota Part # 16258-22010
MAHLE # B31670
FEL-PRO # 36084
VICTOR REINZ # 711614000

10mm nuts - torque spec 80 in*lbs

 

[JimPghPA]

Usually adding stop leak products to cooling systems cloggs up the cabin heater core.

And many vehicles require R&R of the dash to replace a clogged heater core.

Ya don't wana go there.

Quoting Nancy Regan re using stop leak products, " Just Say NO."

 

[Mr.GTRSpecV]

Paging @AKhan87 - he has built many of these engines and is probably more familiar.

Wicked, thanks for the reference.

Finishing a rebuild for a MR2 as we speak.

that is your water by-pass gasket leaking, seems odd that the original one would leak unless someone reused it or the original one has slowly rusted out (seen many of them - am from the rustbelt area)

Water By-Pass Gasket
Toyota Part # 16258-22010
MAHLE # B31670
FEL-PRO # 36084
VICTOR REINZ # 711614000

10mm nuts - torque spec 80 in*lbs

You are the man. Super cool you are working on a MR2 engine. Thank you for this, and yes, I am from a heavy rust area (Toronto).

 

[AKhan87]

Thank you for this, and yes, I am from a heavy rust area (Toronto).

Sure.

make sure to remove your intake, loosen the water by-pass pipe from the block (behind the intake -1 bolt) and the cylinder head (this should be accessible from the below the PCV valve area - 1 bolt), then you will be able to move the whole pipe up enough to change this gasket.

Please note the correct orientation of the gasket (top vs bottom) before removing the gasket.

 

[Mr.GTRSpecV]

Sure.

make sure to remove your intake, loosen the water by-pass pipe from the block (behind the intake -1 bolt) and the cylinder head (this should be accessible from the below the PCV valve area - 1 bolt), then you will be able to move the whole pipe up enough to change this gasket.

Please note the correct orientation of the gasket (top vs bottom) before removing the gasket.

I was going to ask, is there a video online or a tutorial on how to execute this task?

 

[50yr Street Mech]

I'm in the Rust Belt also, and had a leak at that bypass gasket on my Honda due to salt intrusion. The entire by pass pipe was rusted out too. Had to replace that also. Honda uses a coated steel bypass line which is no match against salt. I believe Toyota uses a stainless steel line, which should still be good. You need to check the bypass line just in case of corrosion. Road salt gets into everything. Best of luck.