Coolant Analysis: Prestone in 2002 WRX

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quote:

Originally posted by cryptokid:
so what im getting out of all this is that i should stay with the green glycol antifreeze?

That's what I run in my '94 turbo Miata. 30% green prestone in the summer, 50% in the winter. Balance distilled water. Use each for two seasons then toss and replace. Goes in clear yelowgreen, comes out clear yellowgreen, interior of the rad looks good.

Robert

[ June 30, 2003, 04:01 PM: Message edited by: porterdog ]
 
Regarding the Mazda, I've used Prestone's generic neon green glycol based antifreze in my '89 626 for the past 195,500 miles and the water pump has never been replaced (to the best of my knowledge the pump is not replaced with the timing belt).
 
Well, here we are, almost two years later, and more information has come to light. Turns out that both the Honda "green" and the Toyota "red" really were long life formulae all along, but until the last couple of years neither company was quite brave enough to recommend going over 35,000 miles (probably wanted to survey field results from their respective dealer networks - better safe than sorry). Both companies now recommend 60,000 mile changeouts - still conservative compared to GM's recommendation for its DEX-COOL syrup. I went almost an additional year with my Sonata - 23 months. By last September I noticed that both "yellow" jug Prestone and a new SuperTech product were claiming "universal" extended life properties (extended life only if the system was thoroughly flushed with and diluted with distilled water). Since $4.68/gallon for the suspected Prestone sourced SuperTech* is a tad cheaper than $10.99/gallon for Havoline DEX-COOL, and I'm a cheapskate driving a cheap car, the decision was a no-brainer on September 3, 2004. (To CJH who thoughtfully informed me that I "would have to have rocks in [my] head to switch to Dex Cool", I would only offer that I ran the Havoline DEX-COOL "evil brew" in my Honda Accord for over three years with no problems whatsoever.) In any event the SuperTech extended life (blue-green) which according to the ingredients listed on the back of the jug is identical to the Prestone extended life (yellow-green) and Prestone's silver jug (orange) fully compatible and GM-licensed DEX-COOL clone, only differing in marker dye color and the holy-grail GM licensing fee. (Prestone's licensed DEX-COOL is slightly different chemically from Havoline/Mr Goodwrench DEX-COOL - indicating to me that "DEX-COOL" is a performance specification, not a hard and fast chemical recipe.) It's (very) nearly 9 months and the ST dilute coolant in the radiator is green crystal clear, the viewable core passages are all bright-shiny aluminum metal (the same appearance that orange DEX-COOL presented in my Accord before I totaled it) and the car is running as cool as the proverbial cucumber (including an 85 mph canonball run from San Bernardino to Las Vegas and back two weeks ago in 100+ degree F. Mojave Desert heat with the A/C running in full freezeyerassoff mode. Curiously, the factory-fill coolant drained with slight turbidity - unsure whether the juice was approaching exhaustion, or perhaps an additive of some sort was installed at the factory or by the dealer . . . In any event, I feel better about getting the just slightly murky stuff out. Finally, in passing, cangreylegend correctly pointed out that the Japanese coolants use an OAT formula that is slow (several thousand miles) to fully protect the aluminum internals. What he may not have been aware of is that the Japanese juices also contain a stiff dose of dissolved phosphates for that very reason - they adhere quickly to and protect bare aluminum, but are eventually displaced by the organic acid barrier. Should the organic acid barrier be spot-compromised by a wondering stray particulate, the phosphate will supply immediate "healing" until the organic acid barrier can re-establish itself. The Japanese feel the protective qualities of phophates outweigh their potential for coming out of solution and causing havoc with water pump seals. The bearings are actually sealed and internally lubed for life - the "lube" qualities of antifreeze pertain to the junction of the spinning shaft and the ceramic pump seal.

*Much of the back of the jug blather of the SuperTech is identical - word for word - to that of the Prestone products. They all share the same alpha-numeric production and date coding configuration and listed ingredients. As Yogi Bera said - "It's too much of a coincidence to be a coincidence."
 
quote:

Originally posted by Stinky Peterson:
Why do you use 30% in the summer?

My guess would be he feels 70% water would supply extra cooling ability. While true, he's running greatly increased risk of system corrosion. In the long haul, he'll pay dearly for that. (I believe I read that antifreeze should never be diluted to less than 40% concentration.)
 
quote:

The Dex Cool is highly corrosive to gasket life and is prone to gelling if air gets into the cooling system.

I thing the Dexcool was not the problem. I think shoddy, cheap gaskets, shoddy, cheap radiator caps, and often lack of normal cooling system maintenance and top-off are the reasons for the problem.


Ken
 
It's now over a year with the SuperTech long-life antifreeze/coolant in my Hyundai. The coolant level when cold is down about 8 ounces from when I filled it last year - normal evaporation of water. When I remove the radiator cap and shine a light into the depths, the core tubes I can see are scale-free, clean metal.

(To Ken - I believe you're absolutely correct. DEX-COOL won't tolerate air in the system and certain GM engines for some time left the opportunity for leakage as you pointed out. That's not a failing of DEX-COOL as the hysterics contend anymore than a flat tire resulting from running over a nail is a failing of the tire.)
 
MGB:Glad to hear silicates may only be a problem if coolant is neglected. Yearly, I drain, with the heater on, my coolant from the radiator and overflow tank, pour a gallon of distilled water through the radiator for a bit of a flush, close the drain valve and refill. This doesn't get all the old coolant out, but it keeps it fresh. Trick is to take care and get all the air out, it usually takes one or two heat up and cool down cycles to do this (though the Hondas have an air bleed screw which is nice).Correct me if I am wrong but if the system is drained refilled with water of some kind heated up so the thermostat is wide open and flushed till all the color is gone refilled you say several quarts more will be needed due to air pockets.This may happen with cars today but I have NEVER run across anything quite like this. You did however give me a idea that since I never use my heater that may be a issue or a small leak site. Sorry after re reading what you wrote thats not at all what I responded too. I am so
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caught up at finding a small leak I will try looking everywhere.
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I found this thread very informative. I was wondering what some of you thought of this maintenance plan for EL equipped vehicles. Every
1 1/2 to 2 years (Approx 20K) drain the radiator and refill with 50/50 factory coolant*. (no flushing etc...) My theory is this way you never have to worry about priming the metal, unprotected metal for 3K etc.. and you are replacing half the coolant on a regular basis which will infuse additives into your coolant. My plan assumes that with an OAT coolant there shouldn't be anything
much to flush out and I'll always have 'potency' in my coolant. In my 3.1 equipped GM I've added
a small bottle of Barleaks each time in hopes of avoiding the dreaded intake gasket leak (so far so good as I near 60K). What say you guys?

* In my Honda I substituted Peak EL which has
a Sodium Benzoate formula (and no Phosphates, Silicates, Nitrates or Borates.)

PS: Of course if anything looked bad I would do a full flush and I probably will do a full flush at 100K. I really don't believe any coolant is good for 100K without some maintenance.

[ September 15, 2005, 09:48 AM: Message edited by: pbm ]
 
Sounds like Peak EL is a DEX-COOL clone except for the type of OAT technology used. The Japanese wisdom prefers an additional stiff dose of phosphate for its rapid aluminum protection in addition to sodium benzoate. But, I ran Havoline DEX-COOL (the one that the rabidly anti-DEX-COOL hysterics froth at the mouth and go cross-eyed over) for more than three years in my '96 Accord with absolutely no problems, so I've about concluded the Japanese are unnecessarily worried about DEX-COOL's theoretical inadequacies for not including phosphate. (either that or they're unabashedly cashing in on the fear factor with their proprietary syrups)
 
In my 3.1 equipped GM I've added
a small bottle of Barleaks each time in hopes of avoiding the dreaded intake gasket leak : You did this more than once
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I only say that cause I got tired of adding coolent to my truck about 8oz a month thru the summer with no sign of a leak.I broke down added some Barrs leak ran it a half hour and let it sit over night. I also had my heater on wide open during the treatment in hopes if it is a small leak it will seal and things will be good . The truck needed more fluid the next day,topped it off and drove it with A/C on. It ran hot not real hot but hot.So I flushed the radiator with water and refilled. I replaced the radiator cap with a new one and it still runs hotter than normal. I will drive it a while and see if its just air or something and hope it cools down.
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Possibly an air bubble that hasn't worked its way out yet. (Some engines have a "burp" screw on the thermostat housing, but I've read there are other locations, too - some not convenient at all. Make sure if you have a pressurized overflow tank, that coolant fully covers the bottom of the tank when the engine is cold.) In any event, keep the heat control valve opened up on your next freeway drive to encourage any remaining air to work its way out.
 
Originally posted by Ray H:
[QB] Possibly an air bubble that hasn't worked its way out yet. (Some engines have a "burp" screw on the thermostat housing, but I've read there are other locations, too - some not convenient at all.

My GM 3.1 has two 'burp' screws right in plain sight. One is near the T-stat and the other is over on the belt side of the engine. I 'burp' it a few times after adding new coolant and I've had no problems with overheating etc...
 
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