I often go back and forth between running a low cost synthetic or a name brand conventional in my 2012 Nissan Pathfinder V6. I would change a conventional every 5,000 miles and prob go 6,500 on a cheep synthetic. I guess my question is what if any gain would I see in running a low cost synthetic if any? I have seen even cheep conventional oils take cars and trucks over 200,000 miles without issue so do you think there is any bennifit?
Conventional vs synthetic?
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It's hard to measure it with anything but synthetics definitely get a better treat rate on additives and usually use better base oils than the or conventional counterparts, so even though you can't see what's going on the synthetic is holding up better inside the hot world of the engine.
Usually synthetics are used to achieve a longer service interval, but without a couple UOAs you don't know if your interval is too far or not. Not only is every engine different but driving habits such as all highway miles will make the oil last longer than short trips.
Usually synthetics are used to achieve a longer service interval, but without a couple UOAs you don't know if your interval is too far or not. Not only is every engine different but driving habits such as all highway miles will make the oil last longer than short trips.
As per usual 901Memphis has it nailed down. I actually find myself thinking the same thing as you do. A cheaper conventional (nowadays a syn blend anyhow) or a group 3 synthetic that is $20-23. It really doesn't matter really I'm sure. I like Castrol Magnatec and Havoline Pro DS in my 3.5 VQ. I think your Nissan would be fine either which way. One thing I saw the other day that caught my eye was just well well Cam2 performed in a direct injection motor for 5k miles plus. It was quite impressive.
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Even "cheap" synthetics have some benefits over conventional (although many conventional oils are blends).
They are much more stable, heat resistant and have better cold flow properties.
That said, will you actually notice a difference in any aspect between conventional, blend, "cheap" syn or "good" syn? So long as you change you oil at an appropriate interval, probably not.
They are much more stable, heat resistant and have better cold flow properties.
That said, will you actually notice a difference in any aspect between conventional, blend, "cheap" syn or "good" syn? So long as you change you oil at an appropriate interval, probably not.
It's an irrelevant discussion as long as you have quality synthetics available to you at the same price (or lower) than the quality syn-blends of the same brands. Until that changes, go synthetic as it's probably cheaper once you factor in roll backs, discounts coupons, rebates, and clearance sales. No sense in talking about $20-$23 group III oil costs when they are running from $10 to $15 per DIY oil change. OP is in Mass. and has access to these sources.
There's very few cons about running synthetic, especially if you love your car and want it to last several years with a good peace of mind. Synthetic flows better across all temperature ranges, stands up to the grueling demands of extreme heat and cold, and doesn't break down as rapidly.
If you only plan to keep cars until the warranty expires, run the cheapest bargain conventional you can find and don't even worry about it is the way I see it!
Like others have stated, there's plenty of good blends out there if you want a little of both or have an older engine where you might have a leak or two to worry about. Valvoline Maxlife and Pennzoil Gold come to mind, both can be had reasonably and go on sale fairly often, 'least around here.
I choose to run synthetic because living in Montana, my trucks are subjected to anything from -30 degree winter starts, all the way into the brutal high 90's (and sometimes on occasion, over 100) summer temps pulling trailers, hauling heavy loads, or sitting in slow traffic with the A/C blasting. I feel much better knowing I have quality oil in the crankcase that will get to those critical areas on time and not wait, while maintaining a sturdy molecular structure in during engine temperatures. Whether or not this makes a big difference is hard to say, but for me, it's a small price to pay for a big peace of mind!
At the end of the day, it's all up to you. We're all just a bunch of random guys offering our 2 cents to you here, good luck with whatever you choose to go with!
If you only plan to keep cars until the warranty expires, run the cheapest bargain conventional you can find and don't even worry about it is the way I see it!
Like others have stated, there's plenty of good blends out there if you want a little of both or have an older engine where you might have a leak or two to worry about. Valvoline Maxlife and Pennzoil Gold come to mind, both can be had reasonably and go on sale fairly often, 'least around here.
I choose to run synthetic because living in Montana, my trucks are subjected to anything from -30 degree winter starts, all the way into the brutal high 90's (and sometimes on occasion, over 100) summer temps pulling trailers, hauling heavy loads, or sitting in slow traffic with the A/C blasting. I feel much better knowing I have quality oil in the crankcase that will get to those critical areas on time and not wait, while maintaining a sturdy molecular structure in during engine temperatures. Whether or not this makes a big difference is hard to say, but for me, it's a small price to pay for a big peace of mind!
At the end of the day, it's all up to you. We're all just a bunch of random guys offering our 2 cents to you here, good luck with whatever you choose to go with!
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I recently purchased a 2017 Nissan Frontier and am still debating on what oil I'm going to use. The manual simply specifies a 5W30 that meets API SN and ILSAC-GF5. These are pretty bland requirements. I don't feel that I need an oil with high HT/HS viscosity for this engine (ACEA A3/B4) so I'm looking more at standards such as Dexos-1 and ACEA A1 or A5. Honda HTO-06 is another specification that I want on the label of my oil choice.
Finding these performance standards is simply not possible with conventional mineral oils. They're also not normally found on cheap synthetics although I notice that Dexos-1 is now on Wal-Mart's synthetic and on NAPA's synthetic. This is a bonus and a bare mininum that I'd look for.
Finding these performance standards is simply not possible with conventional mineral oils. They're also not normally found on cheap synthetics although I notice that Dexos-1 is now on Wal-Mart's synthetic and on NAPA's synthetic. This is a bonus and a bare mininum that I'd look for.
The only time I ever used synthetics was when I drove a lot of miles in a short period of time. I would double the usual miles between changes using synthetic.That way I wasn't changing oil every month or two. I have seen many engines accrue several hundred thousand miles using only conventional I am not covinced that there is a huge benefit to using synthetics if oil is changed at correct intervals.
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I don't really find $20-23 a big deal when it comes right down to it. That isn't all that high a price by my measure. I am willing to buy it for up to $30 for five quarts. At Wally World Quaker State Ultimate Durability was/is $19.77 for a five qt container. Not bad at all. Also... I don't care for chasing rebates etc... Let me just purchase it for a reasonable price and move on. Nothing wrong with rebates if one chooses to go that route. It's just not my thing.
You be hard pressed to find much difference between a groupIII labeled Dino and a Group III labled synthetic, other than what comes out of your pocket book.
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Originally Posted By: Camprunner
I often go back and forth between running a low cost synthetic or a name brand conventional in my 2012 Nissan Pathfinder V6. I would change a conventional every 5,000 miles and prob go 6,500 on a cheep synthetic. I guess my question is what if any gain would I see in running a low cost synthetic if any? I have seen even cheep conventional oils take cars and trucks over 200,000 miles without issue so do you think there is any bennifit?
What viscosity does your manual state? If it's 0w20, then run synthetic.
I often go back and forth between running a low cost synthetic or a name brand conventional in my 2012 Nissan Pathfinder V6. I would change a conventional every 5,000 miles and prob go 6,500 on a cheep synthetic. I guess my question is what if any gain would I see in running a low cost synthetic if any? I have seen even cheep conventional oils take cars and trucks over 200,000 miles without issue so do you think there is any bennifit?
What viscosity does your manual state? If it's 0w20, then run synthetic.
Originally Posted By: blupupher
Even "cheap" synthetics have some benefits over conventional (although many conventional oils are blends).
They are much more stable, heat resistant and have better cold flow properties.
That said, will you actually notice a difference in any aspect between conventional, blend, "cheap" syn or "good" syn? So long as you change you oil at an appropriate interval, probably not.
They do have those synthetic qualities, but is it really a major consideration for the most vehicle owners? There are some conventional oils that have some very stout add packs in them. And most times, for the average user, it is the add pack that really makes more of a difference than the base oil.
Even "cheap" synthetics have some benefits over conventional (although many conventional oils are blends).
They are much more stable, heat resistant and have better cold flow properties.
That said, will you actually notice a difference in any aspect between conventional, blend, "cheap" syn or "good" syn? So long as you change you oil at an appropriate interval, probably not.
They do have those synthetic qualities, but is it really a major consideration for the most vehicle owners? There are some conventional oils that have some very stout add packs in them. And most times, for the average user, it is the add pack that really makes more of a difference than the base oil.
Originally Posted By: Triple_Se7en
Originally Posted By: Camprunner
I often go back and forth between running a low cost synthetic or a name brand conventional in my 2012 Nissan Pathfinder V6. I would change a conventional every 5,000 miles and prob go 6,500 on a cheep synthetic. I guess my question is what if any gain would I see in running a low cost synthetic if any? I have seen even cheep conventional oils take cars and trucks over 200,000 miles without issue so do you think there is any bennifit?
What viscosity does your manual state? If it's 0w20, then run synthetic.
5w30
Originally Posted By: Camprunner
I often go back and forth between running a low cost synthetic or a name brand conventional in my 2012 Nissan Pathfinder V6. I would change a conventional every 5,000 miles and prob go 6,500 on a cheep synthetic. I guess my question is what if any gain would I see in running a low cost synthetic if any? I have seen even cheep conventional oils take cars and trucks over 200,000 miles without issue so do you think there is any bennifit?
What viscosity does your manual state? If it's 0w20, then run synthetic.
5w30
That cheep Formula Shell conventional at Home Depot keeps staring me in the face every time I go in there! I know it is good oil I have used it extensively in several cars at work all going over 200k.
I see all of your points about the advantages of the cheep synthetic and the few $ extra for 5 quarts is not going to kill me so I will prob go that way. I have a Napa not far from me I think the next sale I will stock up on there synthetic and run that in several cars we have here. I will prob send in a UOA and if all good just keep running that.
I see all of your points about the advantages of the cheep synthetic and the few $ extra for 5 quarts is not going to kill me so I will prob go that way. I have a Napa not far from me I think the next sale I will stock up on there synthetic and run that in several cars we have here. I will prob send in a UOA and if all good just keep running that.
Direct Injection Engine in my Sonata means synthetic SN / GF5 meeting Dexos 1 and possibly Honda HC-06 specs for me - then I compare NOACK and end up with 5W20 or 5W30 Pennzoil Platinum or Quaker State Advanced Durability . That's what I will run for the life of the vehicle ...
Originally Posted By: FowVay
I recently purchased a 2017 Nissan Frontier and am still debating on what oil I'm going to use. The manual simply specifies a 5W30 that meets API SN and ILSAC-GF5. These are pretty bland requirements. I don't feel that I need an oil with high HT/HS viscosity for this engine (ACEA A3/B4) so I'm looking more at standards such as Dexos-1 and ACEA A1 or A5. Honda HTO-06 is another specification that I want on the label of my oil choice.
Finding these performance standards is simply not possible with conventional mineral oils. They're also not normally found on cheap synthetics although I notice that Dexos-1 is now on Wal-Mart's synthetic and on NAPA's synthetic. This is a bonus and a bare mininum that I'd look for.
There is no proof syn help the engine last longer and real life proves it so especially with todays oils. Extreme cold that is where syn oils rule. Extreme heat maybe.
I recently purchased a 2017 Nissan Frontier and am still debating on what oil I'm going to use. The manual simply specifies a 5W30 that meets API SN and ILSAC-GF5. These are pretty bland requirements. I don't feel that I need an oil with high HT/HS viscosity for this engine (ACEA A3/B4) so I'm looking more at standards such as Dexos-1 and ACEA A1 or A5. Honda HTO-06 is another specification that I want on the label of my oil choice.
Finding these performance standards is simply not possible with conventional mineral oils. They're also not normally found on cheap synthetics although I notice that Dexos-1 is now on Wal-Mart's synthetic and on NAPA's synthetic. This is a bonus and a bare mininum that I'd look for.
There is no proof syn help the engine last longer and real life proves it so especially with todays oils. Extreme cold that is where syn oils rule. Extreme heat maybe.
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Originally Posted By: CT8
There is no proof syn help the engine last longer and real life proves it so especially with todays oils. Extreme cold that is where syn oils rule. Extreme heat maybe.
Wrong answer
There is no proof syn help the engine last longer and real life proves it so especially with todays oils. Extreme cold that is where syn oils rule. Extreme heat maybe.
Wrong answer
Okay, kids.
Lots of opinions presented here without much real information.
Who in this thread (other than me) knows what the difference between Grp II and Grp III basestocks actually is?
They're both hydrocracked basestocks, so what is the distinction between them?
I'll give you all a hint.
It's a totally arbitrary numeric value.
Lots of opinions presented here without much real information.
Who in this thread (other than me) knows what the difference between Grp II and Grp III basestocks actually is?
They're both hydrocracked basestocks, so what is the distinction between them?
I'll give you all a hint.
It's a totally arbitrary numeric value.
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