Conventional to Synthetic?

[Peeps]

I know that for most it must be punishment to have to look at another one of these posts but...
I have a 98 Honda Civic with 170,000 KM which converts to roughly 105,000 miles. Now looking at all the articles I have read on this board that date as far back as 2003 I am still on the fence. I found the most compelling argument against the switch was a test that Bob did way back that showed synthetic oil removing contaminents from engine seals but not conditioning them. This would obviously result in leaks.
The reason I would like to make the change is that I live in Canada and the winter mornings are anything but warm. I'm trying to make things easier on the car.
The car has been very well maintained. Oil changes are done every 4,000 km (2400 miles), maintenance is always done and usually before the intervals recommended.
My biggest fear in doing this is the obvious leaks that can't be stopped once started. If it wasn't for that I would have made the change already.

 

[surfstar]

If you really want to go synthetic and are worried about leaks; ARX it and then switch over. Auto-Rx will clean and condition the seals, while the dino rinse phase will allow them to swell before you switch over to syn. Not the best time to do it now, though with winter here. Or just switch and see if you get any leaks. With that short of an OCI, I doubt you'll have enough crud built up to get leaks with syn. I switched at 80k miles with no leaks and no additives or flushes.

 

[jmacmaster]

Its my understanding that the problem of seals leaking with synthetic oil is limited to older vehicles (not the number of miles on a vehicle), which sometimes had seals made of material not compatible with syn oil, and that newer vehicles (and I think a 1998 vehicle qualifies as a newer vehicle) don't have a problem because the manufacturers now all use seals materials that don't leak with syn oil.

 

[JonS]

It won't leak. but if you think it might, i would rather have a car that starts in sub zero temps with leaks, than one that won't start. You will be ok with the switch. Synthetics do not clean any more than dino oils. This is just a myth. I switched at 100K on my Jeep 4.0. I go back to dino in the summer and syn in winter. I have no problems.

 

[Peeps]

Is Auto-RX recommeded when doing this change? Does it matter if I perform this change in the winter? Any other recommedations?

Thanks

 

[glennc]

I would second the advice to run A-RX before the switch, though with two cycles that will be around another 8k miles on dino.

To me the biggest argument against synthetics is my observation that UOAs don't show any advantage to them. The engines don't wear any less, and that is, in the end, the bottom line. Unless you have a very special-use case.

They may help keep the engine cleaner though. And in some cases they may help your mileage, enough even to make up for the additional cost.

- Glenn

 

[Curious Kid]

How about switching to a synthetic blend? I'm not sure of the flow differences at the moment, but the viscosity index may bea good indicator aside from the 40-100degc visc. comparisons.

When I switched over to M1 on my '95 volvo with 70K that I purchased used, it didn't leak. Two years or so later was when I started to notice seepage from the real main seal. This maybe contributed to cleaning as I have no knowledge as far as oil used and OCI done by the previous owners, as well as my trying M1 0w-40 and being a little too agressive on the throttle with the engine still not fully warmed - overpressurization.

I also spotted seepage around the cam seals before I decided to go with a blend.

In all fairness though, I have heard from another board that there might be seal stiffening/aging issues with volvo's 5-cyl engines.

Thus far, some syntec blend, GC and a small amount of stop leak additive (light petroleum oil, can't remember the type that inherently swells the seals), seemed to have stopped the cam seal seepage and the rear main has slowed to an occasional drip (never much at it's worst).

For the next oil change, I'm going to try castrol's hi-mileage with a bottle or two of GC. I just don't feel like pulling the axles, lowering the engine and removing the transmission for one seal...if I can help it, or drop the cash for another to due it.

Just my experience.

 

[John_E]

My cam seal leakage (2001 VW Passat 1.8T) began when I received the infamous "sludge letter" from VWoA and dutifully changed from dino to Mobil 1 with just over 20k miles = 32k km on the odometer. The cam chain adjuster and cam seals were replaced (love that 10-year powertrain warranty!), and now it works like a champ. I have no idea whether the change to synthetic oil caused or merely coincided with the seal leakage.

 

[Mr Nice]

Hondas are known for cam seal leaks. My wife also has a 1998 Civic with 130,000 miles and has a slow leak.....not because of synthetic oil.

If your Civic has no leaks now, it won't have any just cause you switched to synthetic oil.

 

[Arctic388]

is this plausible ?
@ 110K miles switching to syn for 10-15K then going back to dino a couple 2K mile changes for seal "conditioning" then going back to syn and extended drains ?

i normally used about 3/4th a quart in 5k miles and switched and in this 5k i've used 1.5 qts so far. not sure if i have a leak or just "using" it.

 

[wapacz]

Well my understand is that the first run on syn that you usally use more. I beilieve the current idea is that it is cleaning the rings and getting paste them a bit. Once they get cleaned then they seal up fine.

 

[JohnnyO]

Or try Valvoline Max Life Synthetic, I suppose it's meant to deal with the seals. A blend probably wouldn't be any different than a straight dino. I put a 10w30 blend in my decrepit work van for winter, it doesn't leak any more or less.

 

[Nick Bamberger]

I have a 93 Camry, Just under 200,000 miles, always have used dino. I want to switch to synthetic, but I have a few small leaks, most from the main seal.

Will synthetic oil increase the leakage? Don't/wont have the $$ to replace the seals.
Probably will be M1 if I do switch.

 

[Nick Bamberger]

Sorry, I put this in the wrong thread, I should have started another.