I have a 2006 Nissan Frontier 4x4 4.0V-6 with 170,000 miles on it, should I use High Mileage Oil or what....
Conventional or Synthetic
- Thread starter Robbie
- Start date
- Status
How much do you drive per year, and what kind of conditions? Does it leak or use oil? How often do you like to change the oil?
IMO if it's not leaking then I wouldn't bother with HM, although it's probably the same price and not apt to hurt anything. I prefer to pay a bit more for synthetic as it helps me sleep better at night. I am not against thin oils nor 10k OCI's. But then my fleet gets 5W30, often on a 5k OCI, and one even gets conventional on a regular basis. So I'm not married to a position.
IMO if it's not leaking then I wouldn't bother with HM, although it's probably the same price and not apt to hurt anything. I prefer to pay a bit more for synthetic as it helps me sleep better at night. I am not against thin oils nor 10k OCI's. But then my fleet gets 5W30, often on a 5k OCI, and one even gets conventional on a regular basis. So I'm not married to a position.
With the price of synthetics nowadays, I see no reason to use dino.
I would probably use ST HM.
I would probably use ST HM.
For around $15 for a 5qt jug of Super Tech synthetic there really is no reason not to use it. If you wanna be cheap its the best choice, its literally about a buck fiddy more than their conventional oil.
Almost no difference in syn costs if you change your own. The recommendation for Super Tech High Mileage syn is a good one.
Huge difference in syn costs if you get it changed (I have to)-- that's why I'm using Valvoline conventional. Have two $10 oil change+ fire rotation coupons left. Roughly fifteen for Valvoline conventional with disposal fees, probably $60 with the coupon for synthetic. If I used syn, the Super Tech syn hi mileage at Walmart is the best deal out there for an oil change. There was a post on here a week or so ago that it's switched diesel oils to Citgo from WPP. Wonder if the same thing will apply to other weights?
Given my HyunKia engine with GDI, I'd probably stick with a 5K OCI. On any car I've owned, I've found Valvoline conventional burns down a bit over 5K, hence the reference to throwing in some HarvestKing in my sig line.
Huge difference in syn costs if you get it changed (I have to)-- that's why I'm using Valvoline conventional. Have two $10 oil change+ fire rotation coupons left. Roughly fifteen for Valvoline conventional with disposal fees, probably $60 with the coupon for synthetic. If I used syn, the Super Tech syn hi mileage at Walmart is the best deal out there for an oil change. There was a post on here a week or so ago that it's switched diesel oils to Citgo from WPP. Wonder if the same thing will apply to other weights?
Given my HyunKia engine with GDI, I'd probably stick with a 5K OCI. On any car I've owned, I've found Valvoline conventional burns down a bit over 5K, hence the reference to throwing in some HarvestKing in my sig line.
Last edited:
Sure use some HM
Pennzoil bronze bottle used to be fantastic.
Some here love VMAX .
I've found in the past Quaker State High Mileage and Penn HM conventional to be excellent.
but with the latest GTO base stocks, IDK anymore. They are just designer paraffins; Not esters or paOlefins.
synthetic can be many different oils - you just cant say "synthetic" and get a laugh; you have to know your audience.
Every "conventional" passenger car oil is very semi- "synthetic" because a "conventional" wont meet ILSAC GF-5 and API Starburst specs and SN + and Dexos 1
Synthetic doesn't mean synthetic like when I was a younger lad
and listen to phonograph records and AM radio on my Silvertone suitcase flip-out record player.
I
Pennzoil bronze bottle used to be fantastic.
Some here love VMAX .
I've found in the past Quaker State High Mileage and Penn HM conventional to be excellent.
but with the latest GTO base stocks, IDK anymore. They are just designer paraffins; Not esters or paOlefins.
synthetic can be many different oils - you just cant say "synthetic" and get a laugh; you have to know your audience.
Every "conventional" passenger car oil is very semi- "synthetic" because a "conventional" wont meet ILSAC GF-5 and API Starburst specs and SN + and Dexos 1
Synthetic doesn't mean synthetic like when I was a younger lad
and listen to phonograph records and AM radio on my Silvertone suitcase flip-out record player.
I
Nothing wrong with Havoline HM in the box either. Not sure how much the 4.0 holds as far as oil capacity but if it uses 5 qts you have a quart left over for makeup oil or other things such as small engines around the house. Lots of moly in Havoline. Plus it is under $16 for 6 qts and easily found.
Last edited:
Originally Posted by ARCOgraphite
...
I've found in the past Quaker State High Mileage and Penn HM conventional to be excellent.
but with the latest GTO base stocks, IDK anymore. They are just designer paraffins; Not esters or paOlefins.
synthetic can be many different oils - you just cant say "synthetic" and get a laugh; you have to know your audience.
Every "conventional" passenger car oil is very semi- "synthetic" because a "conventional" wont meet ILSAC GF-5 and API Starburst specs and SN + and Dexos 1
Synthetic doesn't mean synthetic like when I was a younger lad...
+1
I'd use HM. 150K will be my transition at this point.
I don't even know what's synthetic anymore. It's almost all the same so I have quit trying to figure it out.
...
I've found in the past Quaker State High Mileage and Penn HM conventional to be excellent.
but with the latest GTO base stocks, IDK anymore. They are just designer paraffins; Not esters or paOlefins.
synthetic can be many different oils - you just cant say "synthetic" and get a laugh; you have to know your audience.
Every "conventional" passenger car oil is very semi- "synthetic" because a "conventional" wont meet ILSAC GF-5 and API Starburst specs and SN + and Dexos 1
Synthetic doesn't mean synthetic like when I was a younger lad...
+1
I'd use HM. 150K will be my transition at this point.
I don't even know what's synthetic anymore. It's almost all the same so I have quit trying to figure it out.
If your vehicle isn't burning any oil or leaking I wouldn't even use a high mileage oil. If your motor is like new internally it doesn't know it has a lot of miles on it. I think there are lot of vehicles with 200,000 miles that are probably just as good as other non maintained engines with a lot less miles. My Honda Civic has almost 91,000 miles and I don't feel like it should be given a high mileage oil. I guess every vehicle is different.
Originally Posted by JustinSL
Nothing wrong with Havoline HM in the box either. Not sure how much the 4.0 holds as far as oil capacity but if it uses 5 qts you have a quart left over for makeup oil or other things such as small engines around the house. Lots of moly in Havoline. Plus it is under $16 for 6 qts and easily found.
I am an unabashed convert from Mobil 1.
6quarts of Chevron Havoline ProDS Synthetic for 19.97 every day at Walmart. Free shipping, store pickup, and 2 day delivery optional.
With a Toyota filter I'm under $25 for the whole change. With a Fram Ultra or Mobil 1 filter I'm under $30 all in.
Takes 30 minutes if I take my time.
Nothing wrong with Havoline HM in the box either. Not sure how much the 4.0 holds as far as oil capacity but if it uses 5 qts you have a quart left over for makeup oil or other things such as small engines around the house. Lots of moly in Havoline. Plus it is under $16 for 6 qts and easily found.
I am an unabashed convert from Mobil 1.
6quarts of Chevron Havoline ProDS Synthetic for 19.97 every day at Walmart. Free shipping, store pickup, and 2 day delivery optional.
With a Toyota filter I'm under $25 for the whole change. With a Fram Ultra or Mobil 1 filter I'm under $30 all in.
Takes 30 minutes if I take my time.
What have you been using? Is your engine leaking oil?
Originally Posted by joekingcorvette
If your vehicle isn't burning any oil or leaking I wouldn't even use a high mileage oil. If your motor is like new internally it doesn't know it has a lot of miles on it. I think there are lot of vehicles with 200,000 miles that are probably just as good as other non maintained engines with a lot less miles. My Honda Civic has almost 91,000 miles and I don't feel like it should be given a high mileage oil. I guess every vehicle is different.
You make a good point. My 2007 Tacoma with >225,000 miles has never had anything other than M1 in the crankcase since I did the very first oil change at 3000 miles. It probably has very little internal wear. It uses no oil, and has never even had the Check Engine Light on. What reason would I have for a High Mileage oil?
And lots of people today are in the same boat, with synthetic oils having become the norm in the last 15 years or so.
If your vehicle isn't burning any oil or leaking I wouldn't even use a high mileage oil. If your motor is like new internally it doesn't know it has a lot of miles on it. I think there are lot of vehicles with 200,000 miles that are probably just as good as other non maintained engines with a lot less miles. My Honda Civic has almost 91,000 miles and I don't feel like it should be given a high mileage oil. I guess every vehicle is different.
You make a good point. My 2007 Tacoma with >225,000 miles has never had anything other than M1 in the crankcase since I did the very first oil change at 3000 miles. It probably has very little internal wear. It uses no oil, and has never even had the Check Engine Light on. What reason would I have for a High Mileage oil?
And lots of people today are in the same boat, with synthetic oils having become the norm in the last 15 years or so.
- Status
Similar threads
