conventional or synthetic my car

Status
Not open for further replies.
An MMO piston soak and replacing the leaking valve cover gasket(pul a plug wire to confirm) followed by a good HM 5W30 or 5W40 Rotella will help. An SL2 using that little oil should not be complained about, most use FAR more.
 
I checked that post out it did shear considerably for 1800 miles.. wonder why. I'm thinking of trying Mobil does anyone know where I can find ant data on it?
 
It means that when you change the oil listen to the motor sounds and feel how it runs, thats how you know whether it likes it or not, stick with a good high Mileage oil and that burning/loss of oil is definitelty normal for the car.
 
high mileage oil is the way to go it works well i have used max life and pennzoil high mileage and both worked great!
i have also used super tech and for the price you cant beat it
 
Last edited:
Had one of these cars, tried all the different combinations. In the end the result was it did best on the correct oil weight which was 5W30 dyno oil. Brand did not really matter. High mileage oil can't hurt but not sure it will slow anything down. Same with thicker oil such as Rotella 5W40 which made no difference for me. On mine I changed the oil at 3k intervals because after that it burned the oil, till 3k it was happy with leaving the oil alone for whatever reason. Just my .02
 
I vote for NextGen Maxlife 5w30, possibly 10w40.

I wouldn't see the cost/benefit of a Syn being practical if it is still burning off.

Use a High Mileage conventional oil, and NextGen to save the environment.

Or just stock up on the next $1.99 oil sale you come across. I picked up some Formula Shell from AZ a while back and use it in my 99 Civic as top off.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top