Want to upgrade my vehicles from standard headlight bulbs to brighter bulbs; thinking of Sylvania Silver Star Ultra. Would doing so pose any problem to vehicles electrical system? Vehicles are: 2004 Chrysler Town and Country minivan and 2013 Dodge Dart. Thanks for comments.
considering brighter headlight bulbs
- Thread starter foresthawk
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The only "upgraded" bulbs that are worth anything IMO are the Silverstar Xtravision. A little brighter than standard bulbs, but their life is about equal to standard bulbs.
When you start getting into the Silverstar/Nighthawk/X-treme bulbs, while they appear whiter and brighter, they have much less life.
When you start getting into the Silverstar/Nighthawk/X-treme bulbs, while they appear whiter and brighter, they have much less life.
Any bulb which is hotter than normal involves the risk of melting plastic parts in today's surprisingly cheapened vehicles.
I personally am working on a system which heaves bricks into oncoming vehicles with bright lights.
Getting old? Eyes not working as well as they once did? Consider hanging up the keys rather than endangering motorists.
I personally am working on a system which heaves bricks into oncoming vehicles with bright lights.
Getting old? Eyes not working as well as they once did? Consider hanging up the keys rather than endangering motorists.
The frequency of those “brighter bulbs” makes them look whiter, but from my experience I’d say they don’t really make the road easier to see. If you don’t mind changing your bulbs once a year, go ahead and try them.
SF
SF
Originally Posted By: Kira
Any bulb which is hotter than normal involves the risk of melting plastic parts in today's surprisingly cheapened vehicles.
I personally am working on a system which heaves bricks into oncoming vehicles with bright lights.
Getting old? Eyes not working as well as they once did? Consider hanging up the keys rather than endangering motorists.
When you have perfected a reliable brick heaver, I hope you will export them to the UK. I found properly adjusted 7" sealed beam tungsten lights were ample for driving through the night when I was young. Of course, the arms race for ever brighter headlights hadn't even started then.
Claud.
Any bulb which is hotter than normal involves the risk of melting plastic parts in today's surprisingly cheapened vehicles.
I personally am working on a system which heaves bricks into oncoming vehicles with bright lights.
Getting old? Eyes not working as well as they once did? Consider hanging up the keys rather than endangering motorists.
When you have perfected a reliable brick heaver, I hope you will export them to the UK. I found properly adjusted 7" sealed beam tungsten lights were ample for driving through the night when I was young. Of course, the arms race for ever brighter headlights hadn't even started then.
Claud.
My Silverstar Ultras were still going strong after 2 yrs. I'd say they were about 20% brighter than the stock bulbs. I liked the white light but they dimmed noticeably over time.
I ended up doing the 9012 bulb mod and like it much better.
Before swapping bulbs, clean up your lenses and check the aim. A pitted/scratched up windshield also makes nighttime driving hard since streetlamps and oncoming headlights get scattered in your field of vision. I changed the windshield on my car because of this and it helped greatly.
I ended up doing the 9012 bulb mod and like it much better.
Before swapping bulbs, clean up your lenses and check the aim. A pitted/scratched up windshield also makes nighttime driving hard since streetlamps and oncoming headlights get scattered in your field of vision. I changed the windshield on my car because of this and it helped greatly.
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I tried the Silverstar Ultras. Lasted like 6 months in my Tacoma.
Standard bulbs last for years. In fact, I'm still on the original, 10-year-old fog lamps bulbs, and I use them every time I have the headlights on.
Standard bulbs last for years. In fact, I'm still on the original, 10-year-old fog lamps bulbs, and I use them every time I have the headlights on.
The challenge is that each bulb spec has a certain wattage and you aren't likely to find any DECENT bulbs that exceed the spec'd wattage (ex: H11 is 55W). As others have mentioned, the color temp can change to make the light look more white, but that's really all thats happening.
I'd also argue that whiter light does NOT give you better night visibility -- yellow bulbs illuminate the surroundings better to the human eye, especially during rain, but I don't think DOT/SAE permits yellow for the primary headlights.
I'd also argue that whiter light does NOT give you better night visibility -- yellow bulbs illuminate the surroundings better to the human eye, especially during rain, but I don't think DOT/SAE permits yellow for the primary headlights.
Originally Posted By: Kira
Any bulb which is hotter than normal involves the risk of melting plastic parts in today's surprisingly cheapened vehicles.
I personally am working on a system which heaves bricks into oncoming vehicles with bright lights.
Getting old? Eyes not working as well as they once did? Consider hanging up the keys rather than endangering motorists.
If you can make it also work for lifted trucks that blind everyone, in addition to cars that seem to have one light pointing way up (and the other pointing way down) then I'll invest in your invention. LOL.
Any bulb which is hotter than normal involves the risk of melting plastic parts in today's surprisingly cheapened vehicles.
I personally am working on a system which heaves bricks into oncoming vehicles with bright lights.
Getting old? Eyes not working as well as they once did? Consider hanging up the keys rather than endangering motorists.
If you can make it also work for lifted trucks that blind everyone, in addition to cars that seem to have one light pointing way up (and the other pointing way down) then I'll invest in your invention. LOL.
On the '04 T&C, check the condition of the headlight assembly's aluminum reflectors before springing $$$ for brighter bulbs. If they're Tango Uniform, expensive/bright bulbs won't help.
Been there done that with the '98 sled. New reflectors made a HUGE difference!
Been there done that with the '98 sled. New reflectors made a HUGE difference!
Dont waste your money. They are garbage. Dont last at all. I suggest Yumseen LED bulbs from Amazon. Bright, pull less power and should last vvery long. So far, mine hage worked great for the year they have been in. Also make sure to scrub the headlight housings if they are oxidized. That will improve the light output. Im pretty impressed with how well RainX Extreme clean (5$ at walmart)worked on mine in short time. Spent 10 mins total scrubbing both and they look new.
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Keep your receipt. I think they have a one year warranty and lots of people report that they don't last that long. I didn't drive that much at night so mine lasted for over 3 years before I got rid of the car. I have them in a sister's car and she's had them for over 3 years. You're supposed to use gloves when installing them, otherwise you get oil on the bulbs and they don't last long either. People claimed they did and they still only lasted 6 months. Some cars you can upgrade the wiring harness so it gets a little more current.
I just purchased these today for my 13 Ram. $13.99 each.(below)
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ub...500#Post4646784
My current lights are H11's and it was recommended to try/use the H9's. I have to do a bit of a mod with the upper inner tab (cut it out) but after that, it is clear sailing.
Do a Google search for your application. There is a ton of info out there.
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ub...500#Post4646784
My current lights are H11's and it was recommended to try/use the H9's. I have to do a bit of a mod with the upper inner tab (cut it out) but after that, it is clear sailing.
Do a Google search for your application. There is a ton of info out there.
As far as headlight bulb life. I've found that living in a cold Midwestern temperate climate, (Illinois), is a lot harder on any type of filament bulbs, than living out here in Arizona for the last 27 years. (I can't speak for LED's because they didn't exist in cars when I lived there). Back in Chicago it seemed like I was constantly replacing headlights, turn signal bulbs, dome lights, "courtesy lights", and just about everything else. Not to mention all the cars you would see driving down the road with their back up lights on, because they were all shorted out from all the road salt splashing up all over the transmission.
Out here in Arizona I have only replaced one headlight bulb. That it. In 3 cars, and 27 years of driving. I believe this is because of the warmer weather. I can think of no other reason. I also have never had an engine leak out here. Back in Illinois they were constant as well. Valve covers, water pumps, radiators, thermostat housings, name it and they leaked. And they ALWAYS leaked in the Winter, never in the Summer.
In January back there when it got down to 0F or below, you would start your engine, and it was literally a frozen block of ice. 10 minutes later it was at or near the boiling point. (190-200F). Shut it off, and 8 hours later when you're ready to drive home from work, it's back down to 0F again. I totally believe all that contraction and expansion over a period of time causes leaks. At least far more frequently. And it's the same with frigid temperatures on light bulbs. Anyone ever notice one of the first appliances to go to LED lighting were refrigerator freezers?
Out here in Arizona I have only replaced one headlight bulb. That it. In 3 cars, and 27 years of driving. I believe this is because of the warmer weather. I can think of no other reason. I also have never had an engine leak out here. Back in Illinois they were constant as well. Valve covers, water pumps, radiators, thermostat housings, name it and they leaked. And they ALWAYS leaked in the Winter, never in the Summer.
In January back there when it got down to 0F or below, you would start your engine, and it was literally a frozen block of ice. 10 minutes later it was at or near the boiling point. (190-200F). Shut it off, and 8 hours later when you're ready to drive home from work, it's back down to 0F again. I totally believe all that contraction and expansion over a period of time causes leaks. At least far more frequently. And it's the same with frigid temperatures on light bulbs. Anyone ever notice one of the first appliances to go to LED lighting were refrigerator freezers?
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