Considering a switch from M1 HM to Valvoline Sy wi

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SilverFusion2010

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Jun 29, 2011
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Location
Crawfordville FL
2010 Ford Fusion V6 3.0L 162k miles

Currently running M1 HM 10w-30 and a Fram ultra

Considering a switch to Synpower with Max life in 10w-30

Also considering 5w-30 in both oils. Car is a daily driver, 25 miles to work and 25 back home, mixed city hwy about 40/60

I drive gently most of the time unless I've had a difficult day. On difficult days I tend to open the throttle a bit more. Some might call it Spirited.

I was consuming oil at a quart per 2k but it was Supertech Dino 5w-30. I changed the PCV valve to a new oem to see if it would correct the consumption. I have about 450 mi on current fill and so far I can't see a level drop. Will continue to monitor closely.

Should I switch brands? Why/why not?

Should I switch 10w to 5w? Why/why not?

Car is driven in N FL. Hasn't been below 50F in months.
 
The first number is the winter weight. Above freezing 0w30, 5w30, 10w30 should theoretically all be the same viscosity. So it's not really important for your area. Run whichever is cheaper/easier to find.

Right now there is a valvoline coupon for $8 off 2 jugs at walmart if you go to coupons dot com. Synpower is a good oil. So is M1.


Oil is not going to fix your consumption issue. The PCV systems on those engines just move a lot of oil. Replacing PCV valve is a good step. I have a family member with the same 3.0 DOHC Ford engine and it started using oil around that mileage. It's now pushing 350K. So just keep it topped off and it will keep going for a long time.
 
Originally Posted By: SilverFusion2010
Should I switch brands? Why/why not?

Should I switch 10w to 5w? Why/why not?


Brands: The only reason I would have to switch brands would be to dial in the viscosity to where I want it.

Your engine would probably be ok with a xw20, but since it is now older and given the information provided, an xw30 sounds like it is needed to prevent consumption. I would want to use the thinnest xw30 and stick with a high mileage oil. If I saw consumption and felt it was viscosity related, I'd move to a thicker xw30.

10w or 5w: Ideally, you can find a 10w that is as thin as 5w oils are at 100c and 40c. I ran Castrol Edge 10w30 once and did not like it at all. I had been running 5w20 until that point. When I ran thinner 5w30s, they were much better than the thick Edge 10w30. Here are the current viscosity numbers for Edge 10w30:

40c: 71.5
100c: 11.3
HTHS 150c: 3.2

Sure you get a Noack of 8.5% but that is a pretty thick oil for a 5w20 engine.
 
Originally Posted By: CharlieBauer
Originally Posted By: SilverFusion2010
Should I switch brands? Why/why not?

Should I switch 10w to 5w? Why/why not?


Brands: The only reason I would have to switch brands would be to dial in the viscosity to where I want it.

Your engine would probably be ok with a xw20, but since it is now older and given the information provided, an xw30 sounds like it is needed to prevent consumption. I would want to use the thinnest xw30 and stick with a high mileage oil. If I saw consumption and felt it was viscosity related, I'd move to a thicker xw30.

10w or 5w: Ideally, you can find a 10w that is as thin as 5w oils are at 100c and 40c. I ran Castrol Edge 10w30 once and did not like it at all. I had been running 5w20 until that point. When I ran thinner 5w30s, they were much better than the thick Edge 10w30. Here are the current viscosity numbers for Edge 10w30:

40c: 71.5
100c: 11.3
HTHS 150c: 3.2

Sure you get a Noack of 8.5% but that is a pretty thick oil for a 5w20 engine.


I suggest revisiting the oil basics stuff on this website.
 
Originally Posted By: KingCake
I suggest revisiting the oil basics stuff on this website.


I just re-read your response and suggest you do some reading yourself.

M1 10w30 High Mileage has a HTHSv of 3.5, and viscosity at 40c of 78 and 100c of 12.1.

This is far higher than the 2.9 to 3.0 of many US 5w30s. In fact, it is virtually as thick as M1 0w40 at operating temperature and thicker at 40c.

Maybe that's why his consumption stopped. Seeing he went from Supertech 5w30 to pretty much a Euro oil, maybe he should look at some in between 10w30s or even 5w30s to achieve the same consumption benefits without being thicker than necessary.
 
I actually picked the 10w-30 because the full syn oils don't need much VII to meet spec.

I ran 5w-20 for the first 100k or so, noisy. Ford changed nothing about this engine when they changed the oil spec. I blame the 5w-20 for my current consumption issues. Should have run a 30 weight
 
10w30 seems on the thick side for that car unless it's a deliberate measure to curb oil consumption. Moving away from a dino oil and changing the PCV may have already reduced it substantially so I'd move down to the 5w30 and only go back up if necessary. And I trust Valvoline's synthetics just as much as M1 so I'd support the switch.
 
Originally Posted By: SilverFusion2010
I actually picked the 10w-30 because the full syn oils don't need much VII to meet spec.

I ran 5w-20 for the first 100k or so, noisy. Ford changed nothing about this engine when they changed the oil spec. I blame the 5w-20 for my current consumption issues. Should have run a 30 weight


Originally Posted By: Alex_V
10w30 seems on the thick side for that car unless it's a deliberate measure to curb oil consumption. Moving away from a dino oil and changing the PCV may have already reduced it substantially so I'd move down to the 5w30 and only go back up if necessary. And I trust Valvoline's synthetics just as much as M1 so I'd support the switch.


That particular 10w30 (M1 HM) is very thick. Euro thick. Most 10w30s are not that thick.

Amongst high mileage oils 10W30s, Synpower with Maxlife has a 6.3% noack and is not as thick as the M1 HM.
 
Originally Posted By: Alex_V
10w30 seems on the thick side for that car unless it's a deliberate measure to curb oil consumption. Moving away from a dino oil and changing the PCV may have already reduced it substantially so I'd move down to the 5w30 and only go back up if necessary. And I trust Valvoline's synthetics just as much as M1 so I'd support the switch.


10w30 is only thicker than 5w30 below 0 degrees c. They are both 30 weight oils.
 
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Originally Posted By: KingCake
Originally Posted By: Alex_V
10w30 seems on the thick side for that car unless it's a deliberate measure to curb oil consumption. Moving away from a dino oil and changing the PCV may have already reduced it substantially so I'd move down to the 5w30 and only go back up if necessary. And I trust Valvoline's synthetics just as much as M1 so I'd support the switch.


10w30 is only thicker than 5w30 below 0 degrees c. They are both 30 weight oils. This website is full of retards.


You are completely missing what CharlieBauer is saying (and being shockingly rude and ill-informed in the process).

Within the spectrum of 30w oils, there is a large variance -from between barely thicker than a 20w up to barely thinner than a 40w - among 30w oils. The category is broad, and the M1 HM is an outlier here. And between brands, 30w's will have different low-temp thicknesses, too.

SilverFusion - this was an exact oil comparison I made a year ago. I thought of switching from 10w30 HM M1 to The Valvoline Synpower. Two reasons I didn't, 1) the M1 is always cheaper; I buy 2 5 qt containers each year during the rebate period (like now), so they are about $10.50 before tax for 5 qts ($22.50 at WM - $12). 2) Reason #2 is partly as CharlieBauer oulined above - the 3.5 HTHS is respectable and I can go 7,500mi without needing make-up oil (2002 Lexus 300, among several vehicles I put this in).

I would really like to know the NOACK of the M1; the Valvoline is really impressive. As to viscosity, I certainly would NOT go to a 5w-x anything if I lived in Florida. I use 10w-x in my vehicles here in the PNW. The sturdier nature of the 10w-30 vs 5w-30 weight lets me feel a little better about my oil choice.
 
Either brand will work but Valvoline gets a lot of kudos here lately for the uoa's that are posted. Give it a try and compare. Whichever oil makes your engine run the quietest is the winner. Not a scientific way to judge but I believe most people prefer quiet engines to noisy ones.
 
Originally Posted By: CharlieBauer
Originally Posted By: SilverFusion2010
I actually picked the 10w-30 because the full syn oils don't need much VII to meet spec.

I ran 5w-20 for the first 100k or so, noisy. Ford changed nothing about this engine when they changed the oil spec. I blame the 5w-20 for my current consumption issues. Should have run a 30 weight


Originally Posted By: Alex_V
10w30 seems on the thick side for that car unless it's a deliberate measure to curb oil consumption. Moving away from a dino oil and changing the PCV may have already reduced it substantially so I'd move down to the 5w30 and only go back up if necessary. And I trust Valvoline's synthetics just as much as M1 so I'd support the switch.




That particular 10w30 (M1 HM) is very thick. Euro thick. Most 10w30s are not that thick.

Amongst high mileage oils 10W30s, Synpower with Maxlife has a 6.3% noack and is not as thick as the M1 HM.


Do you have the rest of the specs for the 10w-30 Synpower with maxlife technology?
 
Both reading on here and observing in real life, M1 creates valve train noise where there was none and Maxlife stops leaks and consumption.
It's an easy choice.
 
Good idea that you've used 10w30. If you're still having problems with the noise, then best to use an oil additive such as the nano-based Everglide. I can personally vouch for this oil treatment. Valvoline as your engine oil is quite reliable too.
 
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