Consensus Top 3 oil filters for long 10K-15K drain

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Originally Posted By: tommygunn
Bosch Distance Plus (pretty much a Purolator Synthetic without the texture grip)

No, the Bosch DistancePlus is its own animal. Purolator does not market an equivalent filter even though they manufacture the DP for Bosch. The Purolator Synthetic uses wire-backed synthetic media while the DistancePlus has 'advanced synthetic fiber media', basically a high-quality, high-efficiency cellulose. The DistancePlus is more or less a PureOne with more holding capacity so it can be kept in service a lot longer.

http://www.purolatorautofilters.net/products/oil_filters/Pages/SyntheticOilFilters.aspx

http://www.boschautoparts.com/Filters/Pages/DistancePlusOilFilters.aspx

The Bosch Long Life looks to be similar to the Purolator Synthetic but that remains to be seen until they are out in the wild a little longer.

http://www.boschautoparts.com/Filters/Pages/LongLifeOilFilters.aspx

Originally Posted By: tommygunn
The PureOne used to be capable of extended drain...

No, the PureOne was never designed, intended or marketed to be an extended drain filter. I have no idea why so many people are under the impression that it is. The PureOne is better at filtering oil then the Classic but not designed to be used any longer. If anything, The PureOne's higher efficiency will load up the filter media quicker giving it a shorter lifespan. Reading that people use them for 10k+ OCIs on dirty engines makes me cringe.

Originally Posted By: tommygunn
... but they cheapened it in order to make room for the more expensive synthetic filter...

Where did you hear that? That's nothing but Internet-fueled nonsense.

Originally Posted By: tommygunn
... hence the tears.

Purolator's tearing issues are a manufacturing quality-control problem. It happens. It's not a concerted effort to make cheap junk and hope that nobody notices.
 
Could someone explain the choice to use anything other than the filter that offers the best filtration?
 
Originally Posted By: Noey
Could someone explain the choice to use anything other than the filter that offers the best filtration?


Too much filtration plus a long OCI may equal filter plugging and oil bypass.

This could result in unwanted wear.


To the OP, the OEM Toyota filter runs 10,000 mile OCI's with absolutely no problem.

Cost is about $4.50 in case quantities at my dealership.

They let me split the case between my Camrys and my Land Cruiser.
 
Originally Posted By: SilverC6
Originally Posted By: Noey
Could someone explain the choice to use anything other than the filter that offers the best filtration?


Too much filtration plus a long OCI may equal filter plugging and oil bypass.

This could result in unwanted wear.


If a filter is rated for 10K or 15K miles of usage, the only way it's going to "plug up" if used for the rated mileage is if the engine is a total sludge fest. If that's the case, no filter can be ran very long.

So it's perfectly fine to run oil filters with tears in them causing a constant flow of bypassing oil (Tearolator), but it's not OK to have a filter go into bypass mode now and then? Double standard?
grin.gif
 
Originally Posted By: 440Magnum


I'm not sure why people are throwing the M1 in the mix... its a great filter, but its not a wire-backed synthetic media filter and doesn't belong in the same category as the ones above.



M1 is still "guaranteed for 15k when synthetic oil is used" according to their website.
 
I've been running tough guards,orange cans and EVERY single filter on every single vehicle I've owned for many years for a minimum of 10000 miles,and 2/3 oil changes.
And no torn media upon filter dissection.
Every vehicle I've owned gets at least 300k and I've yet to have an oil burner.

There is a catch though. Only on a known clean engine will I run a filter that long. So if I've got a new acquisition it's getting a few short pyb intervals with seafoam(or any similar can product) until I can see cleanliness or the oil maintains cleanliness on the dipstick for longer when compared to when first acquired.
Sure I can understand short filter change intervals with garbage filters but even the orange can is a good,well constructed unit so to junk one at 3000 miles in a clean engine is stupid.
I've got ultras on right now. I'll cut open and post pics for everyone at 20k miles.
You guys will see exactly what I've been seeing for years,a filter that could be used longer.
Let's remember that a filter becomes more efficient as the media loads up,trapping smaller and smaller particulate.
So by running short filter intervals you are actually allowing larger particulate to travel around the oil circuit for longer potentially damaging moving parts.
 
Originally Posted By: tommygunn
Originally Posted By: 440Magnum


I'm not sure why people are throwing the M1 in the mix... its a great filter, but its not a wire-backed synthetic media filter and doesn't belong in the same category as the ones above.



M1 is still "guaranteed for 15k when synthetic oil is used" according to their website.



True... but now that wire-backed full-synthetic media filters are available for comparable prices, I don't think it has any business being among the top recommendations for anything past 10k miles. The longer you run a filter, IMO, the more important the wire backing of the media and the use of ALL synthetic fibers in the media becomes. RP, Fram Ultra, EAO, Purolator Synthetic, etc. all have those features, and the M1 doesn't. Its just getting a bit outdated. Mobil should let Champion put guts similar to the RP or EAO inside it. The can, ADBV, etc. are already essentially the same.
 
Originally Posted By: Noey
Could someone explain the choice to use anything other than the filter that offers the best filtration?


Extended lifter pump-up times and valve tap.

Not always the result of using the "best" filter, but sometimes it happens.
 
Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
..... Mobil should let Champion put guts similar to the RP or EAO inside it. The can, ADBV, etc. are already essentially the same.


Fram makes Mobil1 oil filters now, not Champion anymore. I think the only way to get better filtering guts in all oil filters is to raise the OEM standards.
 
Originally Posted By: HangFire
Originally Posted By: Noey
Could someone explain the choice to use anything other than the filter that offers the best filtration?


Extended lifter pump-up times and valve tap.

Not always the result of using the "best" filter, but sometimes it happens.


The synthetic media (glass, polyester) oil filters actually filter better with the best flow. They hold more dirt. Seems strange until you realize the synthetic fiber widths are much smaller than cellulose wood-chip-derived fiber widths.
 
Originally Posted By: HangFire
Originally Posted By: Noey
Could someone explain the choice to use anything other than the filter that offers the best filtration?


Extended lifter pump-up times and valve tap.



Won't happen unless you change to a filter that doesn't meet the flow and pressure specs. Better filtration doesn't imply lower flow rate. The mainstream synthetic media filters all meet or exceed the specs for a given application. The bigger problem is that (as of right now anyway) there are a lot of applications for which there is no full-synthetic media filter. Mainly cartridge-type filters, but even in spin-ons the application coverage is typically a little less than conventional filters.
 
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