Connecting multiple 12&/or 14ga wires in junction

[JHZR2]

Originally Posted By: tom slick
I have an ideal Philips screwdriver with a handle that a wire nut fits into and you can twist the heck out of it.

The push in connectors I linked to are superior to trying to twist 3 or more wires into one wire nut.


Why are they superior? Id say there is less contact area on each wire that you are trying to connect.

Sure look like it makes things easy though!! Is it tough to get the wires back out?

 

[tom slick]

I say it's superior because when you are working in a tight box with short wires it's difficult to get 3+ wires all jammed into the wire nut and all of them sufficiently connected. The push-in style is rated for whatever sized wire fits into the hole and always has the same mechanical connection. I've worked on numerous circuits with loose wires in the bundle held together with a wire nut. Usually it's the neutral side because they all get connected together.

The push-in style have a small hole that you insert a small wire that releases the big wire but how often are you rewiring/reusing?

 

[brianl703]

Originally Posted By: JHZR2

Sure look like it makes things easy though!! Is it tough to get the wires back out?


I've never tried, but what I read is that if you twist the wire while pulling it will come out of the push-in connectors.

 

[brianl703]

Originally Posted By: Al

If you get involved with metal boxes, make sure you make a band using electrical tape around the receptacle (over the side lug screws).


I've heard that some inspectors will fail a job if they see that.

 

[severach]

Too many wires or already bent wires? There's nothing that beats the set screw wire nuts.

 

[Audi Junkie]

I used to twist, but was instructed to do otherwise. It's a lot easier and makes a good connection. I feel that twisting strains the copper, and can cause breaks. I only strip with a razor knife, in order not to damage the wire and weaken it. The nuts with the wings on them seem to prevent adding the electrical tape, which is code, afaik.

I always tape around the receptacle or switch, it is common sense and can only help. I use heavier feed wire to spots where there are older junction boxes. I just terminate the leg there and add a new feed and breaker to that end of the line, usually the area further from the main box.

 

[brianl703]

I know for a fact that many inspectors will fail a job for having electrical tape on the wirenuts. If you need to tape over your wirenuts, it's because you stripped the wire too far.

 

[Al]

Originally Posted By: brianl703
Originally Posted By: Al

If you get involved with metal boxes, make sure you make a band using electrical tape around the receptacle (over the side lug screws).


I've heard that some inspectors will fail a job if they see that.


This:

Originally Posted By: Audi Junkie

I always tape around the receptacle or switch, it is common sense and can only help.

 

[Audi Junkie]

I can't tape the nuts simply to permanently secure them?

 

[Jim 5]

Originally Posted By: brianl703
I know for a fact that many inspectors will fail a job for having electrical tape on the wirenuts. If you need to tape over your wirenuts, it's because you stripped the wire too far.


So if you tape a wirenut that has been connected properly and previously passed by an inspector, it becomes unsafe because of the taping?

 

[brianl703]

Originally Posted By: Jim 5

So if you tape a wirenut that has been connected properly and previously passed by an inspector, it becomes unsafe because of the taping?


No. If the inspector sees the electrical tape on a wirenut on a job he's inspecting, he can only assume that it was needed because someone stripped the wires back too far.

It isn't his job to pull it off to check, so it gets failed.

Using electrical tape in new work is questionable at best. I never see any pros using it.

 

[brianl703]

Originally Posted By: Audi Junkie
I can't tape the nuts simply to permanently secure them?


If the wirenut is properly connected, the tape will fall off long before the wirenut ever does.

If the wirenut isn't properly connected, band-aiding the situation with tape is the wrong thing to do.

 

[brianl703]

From another forum, and this mirrors my thoughts on the subject.



Quote:
I have lots of issues with taping wire nuts and devices and those that practice the atrocities. To keep this "G" rated I'll dwell only on a few

First and foremost I think it violates the manufacturer's listing because all the wire nuts and devices were tested without tape present and tape isn't specified in the installation instructions. Last time I checked not following manufacturer's instructions was a violation.

Wire nuts are provided with instructions, including a wire strip length, that if followed will put the bare wires inside the skirt of the wire nut and prevent them touching anything. The wires are either pre-twisted or the wire nut twists them when properly installed. The twisted conductors and wire nut provide the mechanical pressure required by the NEC. Tape is neither listed or approved for this purpose. As has been pointed out, if tape is required to allow the splice to function or prevent it's failure, the splice hasn't been done correctly. In other words, if tape is required at a wire nutted splice the workmanship is definitely in question. On top of all this tape can trap moisture in a wire nut. I'm listening if someone can explain to me how this is a good thing.

Devices are furnished with strip guides that indicate how much insulation is to be stripped from the wire. Done correctly, this allows the wire to be wrapped around the screw terminal or inserted into the back-clamp without bare conductor extending beyond the back plane of the device. Screws hold devices in place in metal enclosures and prevent the terminals from touching the enclosure. And. most devices have screw heads recessed when tight that would prevent touching anyway. So, now we get down to why you would need tape in these circumstances. And, it is usually because somebody figures they are going to be back working the thing hot at some point - both stupid and illegal. Of course somebody always figures that keeping those 5 sided left hand upside down widgets coming off the line are more important than somebody's life, but I digress.

Electric forums are always showing results of somebody that had a bad day when working stuff hot. If you need do troubleshoot devices you kill the power, take them out of the box, and then restore power IF the testing requires it, You DO NOT rely on tape to cover your bu** while removing a live device.

 

[Jim 5]

Originally Posted By: brianl703
Originally Posted By: Jim 5

So if you tape a wirenut that has been connected properly and previously passed by an inspector, it becomes unsafe because of the taping?


No. If the inspector sees the electrical tape on a wirenut on a job he's inspecting, he can only assume that it was needed because someone stripped the wires back too far.

It isn't his job to pull it off to check, so it gets failed.

Using electrical tape in new work is questionable at best. I never see any pros using it.


Makes sense.

 

[Audi Junkie]

How tight are we going with wire nuts anyway? Assuming untwisted wires, should it be so tight it will twist them upon install?


As for the above passage from the e forum, yes, it is safe to assume a plug in a metal box may get moved around inside that box. Renters yank and pull w/o mercy. I prefer to have it there and also have yet to see tape fall off nuts after 5+ years.

 

[brianl703]

Originally Posted By: Audi Junkie
How tight are we going with wire nuts anyway? Assuming untwisted wires, should it be so tight it will twist them?


Yes, aim for two twists (that is, once the wire nut is tight enough that the wires are starting to twist--two more turns).

If the wirenut is in an outdoor application or where it could be exposed to moisture, position the wirenut so that wires are coming out of the bottom so moisture won't collect inside.

If re-using a wirenut, make sure that there isn't a piece of the old wire still stuck inside. I've had this happen a few times. If there is, get a new wirenut.

Make sure to follow the instructions regarding wire gauge and quantities--using a wirenut that is too small or too big will cause problems.

For rental properties, I prefer to use spec-grade outlets (which cost $1.50 as opposed to 39 cents), they hold up better to abuse and the screws are recessed enough that they aren't going to hit the sides of the box.