I am trying to install a TV wall mount on a stone wall at my parents house. I purchased a new Black and Decker 3/8 inch concrete/masonry drill bit and about 1 hour into running my hammer drill I only had a depth of about 1 1/2 inches. Any recommendations on a new bit to help me get through this faster?
Concrete/masonry drill bit recommendation
- Thread starter InhalingBullets
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It's not the bit, it's your drill. "Hammer drills" don't really do much in the way of "hammering". What you need is an SDS rotary hammer.
I think your hammer drill is hammered out. I killed a Milwaukee cordless with too large a bit, going through my foundation. Made the noise but didn't hammer any more after a few holes.
You must have very hard stone too, also why do you need a 3/8" hole? Flat screens are pretty light these days so you could probably go down in hardware diameter.
For bits, I've had good luck with the good brands at home depot, Milwaukee, dewalt, etc. Get as set of those and they should last a long time.
My second Milwaukee cordless finish the job with a smaller diameter masonary bit and lived a long time after, so maybe get a milwaukee or rigid heavy duty cordless as well with a 1/4" bit.
You must have very hard stone too, also why do you need a 3/8" hole? Flat screens are pretty light these days so you could probably go down in hardware diameter.
For bits, I've had good luck with the good brands at home depot, Milwaukee, dewalt, etc. Get as set of those and they should last a long time.
My second Milwaukee cordless finish the job with a smaller diameter masonary bit and lived a long time after, so maybe get a milwaukee or rigid heavy duty cordless as well with a 1/4" bit.
I have a Milwaukee corded, and its limestone. I figured the bit was the deficiency. Went with the 3/8ths because you know mom and dad might get a little "crazy" and try and swing from it!
While I'm not an expert I've had considerable experience with hammerdrills while renovating our old basement. Have 2, a Milwaukee M12 and an M18 Fuel.
What you are doing can certainly be done with a hammerdrill, even a cordless one (My Fuel is rated for 5/8 masonry, the M12 3/8).
Double check you have the hammerdrill switch engaged - made that mistake originally.
The most important things are :
1. Good bit. Lots of the cheaper "masonry bits" have soft steel and will dull quickly and may not be rated for a hammerdrill. While shopping for a bit to attach something in the basement the one Bosch at HD said "not for hammerdrills". Best bet is to buy a good bit (B&D is not a good bit).
2. Heat is your enemy - it will soften the steel on the bit (or the weld holding the carbide). Drill a bit, back off a bit and let the flutes carry the dust out. Repeat until the depth.
Anew bit on a good hammerdrill should cut like butter. Not as fast as an SDS drill but they work well enough for the occastional holes. As it dulls it will take longer and produce more heat so keep an eye and swap bit as needed. But I doubt 4 holes for a TV will kill a good bot.
What you are doing can certainly be done with a hammerdrill, even a cordless one (My Fuel is rated for 5/8 masonry, the M12 3/8).
Double check you have the hammerdrill switch engaged - made that mistake originally.
The most important things are :
1. Good bit. Lots of the cheaper "masonry bits" have soft steel and will dull quickly and may not be rated for a hammerdrill. While shopping for a bit to attach something in the basement the one Bosch at HD said "not for hammerdrills". Best bet is to buy a good bit (B&D is not a good bit).
2. Heat is your enemy - it will soften the steel on the bit (or the weld holding the carbide). Drill a bit, back off a bit and let the flutes carry the dust out. Repeat until the depth.
Anew bit on a good hammerdrill should cut like butter. Not as fast as an SDS drill but they work well enough for the occastional holes. As it dulls it will take longer and produce more heat so keep an eye and swap bit as needed. But I doubt 4 holes for a TV will kill a good bot.
Originally Posted By: itguy08
The most important things are :
1. Good bit. Lots of the cheaper "masonry bits" have soft steel and will dull quickly and may not be rated for a hammerdrill. While shopping for a bit to attach something in the basement the one Bosch at HD said "not for hammerdrills". Best bet is to buy a good bit (B&D is not a good bit).
2. Heat is your enemy - it will soften the steel on the bit (or the weld holding the carbide). Drill a bit, back off a bit and let the flutes carry the dust out. Repeat until the depth.
Anew bit on a good hammerdrill should cut like butter. Not as fast as an SDS drill but they work well enough for the occastional holes. As it dulls it will take longer and produce more heat so keep an eye and swap bit as needed. But I doubt 4 holes for a TV will kill a good bot.
+1...
For masonry drill bits, look for something with a carbide tip.
The most important things are :
1. Good bit. Lots of the cheaper "masonry bits" have soft steel and will dull quickly and may not be rated for a hammerdrill. While shopping for a bit to attach something in the basement the one Bosch at HD said "not for hammerdrills". Best bet is to buy a good bit (B&D is not a good bit).
2. Heat is your enemy - it will soften the steel on the bit (or the weld holding the carbide). Drill a bit, back off a bit and let the flutes carry the dust out. Repeat until the depth.
Anew bit on a good hammerdrill should cut like butter. Not as fast as an SDS drill but they work well enough for the occastional holes. As it dulls it will take longer and produce more heat so keep an eye and swap bit as needed. But I doubt 4 holes for a TV will kill a good bot.
+1...
For masonry drill bits, look for something with a carbide tip.
Thanks fellas. Home Depot has several Bosch bits available, I will try one out. I may even go with a smaller bit and try out these Toggler Alligators... if i can find them.
Originally Posted By: InhalingBullets
I am trying to install a TV wall mount on a stone wall at my parents house. I purchased a new Black and Decker 3/8 inch concrete/masonry drill bit and about 1 hour into running my hammer drill I only had a depth of about 1 1/2 inches. Any recommendations on a new bit to help me get through this faster?
When your hammer drill is in hammer drill mode it will squeal and make a lot of noise. If you're not in hammer mode you won't hear that noise.
An inch and a half should be plenty deep unless you are also using the wall for P90X chinups too! Maybe use some Tapcon screws to keep the wall mount in place?
Regards, JC.
I am trying to install a TV wall mount on a stone wall at my parents house. I purchased a new Black and Decker 3/8 inch concrete/masonry drill bit and about 1 hour into running my hammer drill I only had a depth of about 1 1/2 inches. Any recommendations on a new bit to help me get through this faster?
When your hammer drill is in hammer drill mode it will squeal and make a lot of noise. If you're not in hammer mode you won't hear that noise.
An inch and a half should be plenty deep unless you are also using the wall for P90X chinups too! Maybe use some Tapcon screws to keep the wall mount in place?
Regards, JC.
Hello, Another "trick of the trade" is to start any hole in masonry with the smallest bit you can find. Then go larger. Tiny bits go in faster. When you go to enlarge the hole you'll be amazed how quickly it goes. Want another tip? Get your shop vac's hose and hold it beneath the hole as you drill. The dust won't have the chance to spread. Kira
It's been my experience that unless a drill bit is explicitly labeled as being a "hammer drill bit", it generally wont work well in a hammer drill. The hammer motion tends to quickly dull the tip and makes it virtually impossible to break the surface.
I've had good luck with the usual name brands (Bosch, DeWalt, etc.), as long as they were labeled as being "hammer drill" and not simply "masonry" bits.
I've had good luck with the usual name brands (Bosch, DeWalt, etc.), as long as they were labeled as being "hammer drill" and not simply "masonry" bits.
Drilling a 3/8 hole in limestone should be a breeze. Is the drill in reverse? Try using the bit in drill mode.
Originally Posted By: Kira
Hello, Another "trick of the trade" is to start any hole in masonry with the smallest bit you can find. Then go larger. Tiny bits go in faster. When you go to enlarge the hole you'll be amazed how quickly it goes. Want another tip? Get your shop vac's hose and hold it beneath the hole as you drill. The dust won't have the chance to spread. Kira
Not a good idea. The bit will wander.
Just buy a good bit. If it costs 10 bucks that's not the right one. I've got hammer drill bits that are into the hundreds of dollars. And they last near or ever if you know how to sharpen them.
Hello, Another "trick of the trade" is to start any hole in masonry with the smallest bit you can find. Then go larger. Tiny bits go in faster. When you go to enlarge the hole you'll be amazed how quickly it goes. Want another tip? Get your shop vac's hose and hold it beneath the hole as you drill. The dust won't have the chance to spread. Kira
Not a good idea. The bit will wander.
Just buy a good bit. If it costs 10 bucks that's not the right one. I've got hammer drill bits that are into the hundreds of dollars. And they last near or ever if you know how to sharpen them.
Originally Posted By: kb01
It's been my experience that unless a drill bit is explicitly labeled as being a "hammer drill bit", it generally wont work well in a hammer drill. The hammer motion tends to quickly dull the tip and makes it virtually impossible to break the surface.
I've had good luck with the usual name brands (Bosch, DeWalt, etc.), as long as they were labeled as being "hammer drill" and not simply "masonry" bits.
I agree!
Does your drill bit look like this:
http://www.google.ca/search?q=hammer+drill+bits&client=safari&hl=en&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=3QaoUbuVM9HSiAKm7IHICg&ved=0CAkQ_AUoAQ&biw=1024&bih=672#biv=i%7C0%3Bd%7C9U2vGP1mLh6ILM%3A
Or is it just a masonry bit, like a regular drill bit but with a carbide tip?
It's been my experience that unless a drill bit is explicitly labeled as being a "hammer drill bit", it generally wont work well in a hammer drill. The hammer motion tends to quickly dull the tip and makes it virtually impossible to break the surface.
I've had good luck with the usual name brands (Bosch, DeWalt, etc.), as long as they were labeled as being "hammer drill" and not simply "masonry" bits.
I agree!
Does your drill bit look like this:
http://www.google.ca/search?q=hammer+drill+bits&client=safari&hl=en&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=3QaoUbuVM9HSiAKm7IHICg&ved=0CAkQ_AUoAQ&biw=1024&bih=672#biv=i%7C0%3Bd%7C9U2vGP1mLh6ILM%3A
Or is it just a masonry bit, like a regular drill bit but with a carbide tip?
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Ended up with a carbide tipped Bosch, while it didn't cut through like butter it was certainly quicker. The TV is mounted and my projects are done...(for the moment).
Thanks again everyone!
Thanks again everyone!
Not sure of the manufacture??...but I had to drill about 50 holes in my concrete slab several yrs ago and the drill bits that really worked good were "blue" colored.
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