OP is talking about the 3.5EB, not any of the 4-cyl EBs. I don’t recall any of those issues ever being a problem on the 3.5.
Conclusions on Ecoboost Engine Oil - Gas Turbo Direct Injection
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It’s too bad the EB 4 cyl has this problem. It’s a great engine otherwise.
Triple_Se7en
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cardoc...
I would push the employer to change the 1.5's oils sooner than 6k and raise the viscosity level as compensation against wear.
Thin, gassy oil is a recipe for disaster underneath our hoods. Honda must feel that the overly diluted oil won't harm their warranty period. How the engine fares after the warranty period is no longer a concern to them.
I would push the employer to change the 1.5's oils sooner than 6k and raise the viscosity level as compensation against wear.
Thin, gassy oil is a recipe for disaster underneath our hoods. Honda must feel that the overly diluted oil won't harm their warranty period. How the engine fares after the warranty period is no longer a concern to them.
Hmm when I said essentially the same thing about cars and OPE, pointing out that equipment wearing out faster is a vested interest to the manufacturers in keeping increased sales, some were like “the manufacturers don’t lie! It’s only the salespeople and mechanics!”
Oh I didn’t forget. I just think OP is continually selling himself short on protection and cost avoidance since there is a plethora of available evidence that 12,000 3.5EBs that live a much harder service life than OPs vehicle have an oil that runs 5x longer than OP does, still maintains viscosity as a 30 grade, and does not suffer phaser or timing chain issues that OP is concerned about. It’s also the recommended viscosity and add pack the manufacturer recommends,
While OP is obviously free to do as he chooses with his vehicle, I think a new thread every 8-10 weeks after another OCI has been completed about “I found the best oil for my EcoBoost based on testing that can’t provide data to prove my point” is overblown. I’ve already broken down costs for OP, and even a mere tripling of his OCIs with the correct oil would result in a $3k+/year savings, and reduce vehicle downtime while maintenance is performed.
Stop the consipracy madness of "They just want to get you to the end of the warranty period." - there is absolutely zero evidence of this. I have a 11 year old DI (not turbo) car I bought new, 5W20, 130K, runs like new, never needed de-carboning etc.
QS Euro 5W40 tested as a 30 grade when I ran the VOA a while back (posted in VOA forum) and while BS's testing may be off a bit, it's a thin 40 grade at best. When I ran it in my Sportwagen, it ended up at ~11.00 cST which was on the thinner side of the many oils I've run in that car but also started out at ~12 so as a % drop wasn't bad and some of that is from fuel. You ran it 3K miles which is a v. short run and based on the 450 flash point, you have no/v. little fuel so just sheared down a bit but nothing I'd be overly concerned about. You can use other oils that will end with a higher viscosity if that is the concern.
Please quantifity the comment "excellent iron wear results" - I highly doubt you have any amount of meaningful data to support that Fe values were statistically different between the various oils form a single/a few UOAs...you'd need a lot of data to show that. I have a graph floating around here showing 100K/5 years worth of UOAs on the Sportwagen with multiple oils and nobody could discern that the differences in the Fe values were related to the oil I ran.
Please quantifity the comment "excellent iron wear results" - I highly doubt you have any amount of meaningful data to support that Fe values were statistically different between the various oils form a single/a few UOAs...you'd need a lot of data to show that. I have a graph floating around here showing 100K/5 years worth of UOAs on the Sportwagen with multiple oils and nobody could discern that the differences in the Fe values were related to the oil I ran.
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All the Shell PCMO offerings seem to lean thin for grade.
And yet they offer up to a 500k mile warranty if you use their oil exclusively. They must know something we don’t, since their actuaries would lose their minds if they did something stupid to lose money from excessive risk.
I'm sure anything less than 30 grade isn't included in that warranty, how can it be? Only was for CAFE.
It’s on even the 0w20 jugs…
I mean, how is that possible? <20 = engine siezingIt’s on even the 0w20 jugs…
A real test of oils would involve the kind of testing Consumer Reports did back in the 90s with NYC cabs where they tore down the engines. When it comes to oil testing you would need several tests and find a way to do this in controlled setting. These types of tests I am unable to perform.
What I can say is from placing various oils in the engine and testing it they all appeared to work the same. The iron wear results seemed to come out more or less about the same from oil to oil. The only concern was when I put in a 5W30 oftentimes it.came out a 5W20.
So if you are going into Walmart and thinking Castrol or Mobil 1...etc...they will all come out about the same. I think its better to start out thicker. The SuperTech (Warren) I noted seems to be made thicker then others, Quaker State FS is thicker and you also have Euro 5W40s.
Of course the additive packs might make a difference over time in regards to high mileage sludging. A robust detergent pack included in the oil will be important for long term ownership.
What I can say is from placing various oils in the engine and testing it they all appeared to work the same. The iron wear results seemed to come out more or less about the same from oil to oil. The only concern was when I put in a 5W30 oftentimes it.came out a 5W20.
So if you are going into Walmart and thinking Castrol or Mobil 1...etc...they will all come out about the same. I think its better to start out thicker. The SuperTech (Warren) I noted seems to be made thicker then others, Quaker State FS is thicker and you also have Euro 5W40s.
Of course the additive packs might make a difference over time in regards to high mileage sludging. A robust detergent pack included in the oil will be important for long term ownership.
Finally! We can agree on almost everything. The one thing I would say is still questionable (and seems to be proven out by the lack of failed engines) is what someone mentioned earlier. Your 5w30s diluted/sheared down into a 20 grade, but there was no appreciable increase in iron.
I am on board with your statement that essentially any 5w30 from WM will give similar results; that’s the point of specifications and certifications.
May I ask (completely uncombatively) why you’re so against trying HPL? You’ve already shown you’re willing to do numerous UOAs; why not put the HPL in and sample on a 3k basis and track viscosity and “wear” metals, and see how far you can go? @wwillson has gone well over 25k OCIs in two vehicles; what’s to lose (other than the cost of one oil change) by trying the HPL?
You’ve already done the hard work of proving to yourself that all shelf stock oils produce similar results; now if you choose something that’s markedly different, you should see different results. If you get the same results, I’ll be the first to say “nice work, you proved your theory.”
Not really. That is a kinda interesting test but without standardized methodology you are highly constrained in your ability to compare results. Those one-off tests have more wow than substance.
Well, there is that pesky issue of also wanting repeat buyers…
'Member when we believed in "Built Ford Tough" commercials. Pepperidge Farmtog remembers.....
2013 Ford Focus...130K/11 years....5W20...most reliable lowest cost to own I've ever had. Yes...built Ford Tough.
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