Combustion Chamber Cleaning

[ConfederateTyrant]

I saw a few post about what is best to do this. So far the water induction steam clean seems to be a known way to do this. However, I am a little cautious on doing that myself.

Back in April when I replaced my plugs and wires, I looked down the spark plug hole with a flash light and saw a lot of black deposits throughout the combustion chamber. I'm currently using FP60 with the regular dosage, or just a little less (1.5 per 10 gallons instead of 2 per 10 gallons). Will this completely clean the entire combustion chamber, or just directly where the fuel spray goes?

Which would be a good idea for this? I have Amsoil Power Foam and FP60 on hand. Has anyone ever used FP60 via a brake booster line? Or would it be best to pull each plug, spray some Power Foam in there, and let it soak for a little while, then take it out on the highway for at least 30 minutes?

Thanks in advance.

 

[ziggy]

I don't think FP60 was designed to go through brake booster line, or anyplace else! It was designed, to mix with gasoline, via fuel tank, and go through your fuel injectors. Wanna do what everyone else does?.... get a gallon of distilled water, and slowly let your brake booster cable suck it up, so the engine bogs down, but not so much to the point of stalling or hydrolock... or you could use, seafoam, (very popular), its a mild detergent, or got ot a car dealer, like GM or Chrysler, and ask for combustion chamber cleaner, they go for about $6 to $9 16 oz. spray can. All you do is, spray it into your throttle body, same principle as usstilled water, then let it soak for 4 or 5 hours, then start your engine up again, and drive it, until all smoke is cleared form muffler. However, after seafaoming, or dealer products, its highly recommended to replace your plugs and oil. Seafoam also makes their version of a spray, called deep creep.

 

[Big Jim]

Some carbon in the combusion chamber is unavoidable (read that as normal). If you chemically (or any other way) clean the carbon out, it will return.

What you want to do is keep the level of carbon controlled. It won't hurt and will probably help to clean it up, but seeing some black carbon in the cylinder in and of itself is not a reason for concern.

 

[Steelhead]

do the water injection slowly....use a 1/8" tube in thru throttle body plate hole at 2k rpm on hot engine or hydrolock rod and crank damage can occur

water injection cleans the piston tops and head combustion chamber of carbon deposits only but very well.

one of the hydrocarbon chemical soak products is best for intake valve tulip and ring pack cleaning
i've used a brew of 50% mix of LC/FP 2 hour or overnight soak on several rigs with noticible results...works great on 2 cycles, chain saw, weed wacker

 

[Marco Esquandoles]

quote:

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Originally posted by ziggy:
I don't think FP60 was designed to go through brake booster line, or anyplace else!

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A number of folks have used FP60 through the brake booster line with good to great results. I believe even Terry from Dyson Analysis has recommended it. (But don't take my word for it).

 

[aldive]

quote:

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Originally posted by Marco Esquandoles:

quote:

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Originally posted by ziggy:
I don't think FP60 was designed to go through brake booster line, or anyplace else!

---

A number of folks have used FP60 through the brake booster line with good to great results. I believe even Terry from Dyson Analysis has recommended it. (But don't take my word for it).

---

Do you have any links for this?

Thanks ...

 

[Marco Esquandoles]

They're on the forum. I came across them when searching for seafoam application I think.

 

[Shaman]

Here is what Molkule had to say, but I remember Terry saying different.

http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=5;t=003839#000003