Colt Trooper Mark III Problem

[Pablo]

My Colt Trooper Mark III started having an issue today at the range that will only very infrequently duplicate at home with snap caps.

When pulling the trigger in DA, or cocking the hammer in SA the cylinder (or something) hangs and the hammer will not pull back. If I gently rotate the cylinder, the hammer will pull back OK. It fires at that point fine. I can't spot anything externally that is hanging up.

Any clues?

Also when I was cleaning the gun and while it was completely unlubed and still wet with M-pro 7 it would stick with no rounds in the chambers - every time. Interesting. So I cleaned it all up and blew it out with lube and it won't.... I did clean out the little cylinder well where the cylinder pin inserts...I wonder....no that couldn't be it. Something else is hanging up, the transfer bar maybe?

 

[RW1]

If there a chance you might have carbon or unburnt powder flakes under the ratchet? That little bit of dirt could be causing the ratchet to not seat all the way down so it could cause binding.

Typically you get some crud down there when you're ejecting the fired brass.

The Colt Trooper is a pretty tough handgun.

 

[RW1]

Oh yeah, check the ejector rod. Sometimes when they back out just a little bit, that will cause binding. If it did back out, you can clean it up, put a touch of threadlocking fluid, and hand tighten it down.

 

[bsmithwins]

Does the cylinder bind at all?

When the hammer is cocked how much can you move the cylinder? Any problems with spitting lead?

Not surprised about the Mpro7 causing problems. It's a great cleaner but strips all the old lube off. What oil are you using?

If the area under the extractor star is clean (as well as the front of the cylinder and the hand and pawl) it may need to go in to see a real gunsmith. Revolvers are actually pretty complex and everything has to work just right or they don't.

BSW

 

[Pablo]

Originally Posted By: bsmithwins
Does the cylinder bind at all?

When the hammer is cocked how much can you move the cylinder? Any problems with spitting lead?

Not surprised about the Mpro7 causing problems. It's a great cleaner but strips all the old lube off. What oil are you using?

If the area under the extractor star is clean (as well as the front of the cylinder and the hand and pawl) it may need to go in to see a real gunsmith. Revolvers are actually pretty complex and everything has to work just right or they don't.

BSW


The cylinder doesn't bind.

It will move a tiny bit when cocked.

Not spiting lead.

The cleaner hasn't caused problems, I just noticed it locked up more when soaked with the stuff. I'm using Amsoil MP.

All are very clean.

It's so frustrating, because right now I cannot get it to stick again. No matter what I try.

 

[Pablo]

Originally Posted By: RW1
Oh yeah, check the ejector rod. Sometimes when they back out just a little bit, that will cause binding. If it did back out, you can clean it up, put a touch of threadlocking fluid, and hand tighten it down.


That was the first thing I checked. All clean and well seated.

 

[greenaccord02]

Here's a list of timing problems and checks. See if anything sounds familiar.

http://www.coltforum.com/forums/colt-revolvers/1297-colt-revolver-timing-checks.html

(scroll down for the Mark III stuff)

 

[Pablo]

Sweet. I joined that forum. Thanks!!!

I stepped through that diagnosis - it passes all that criteria and the cool thing is those are exactly what I figured (by observing) what goes on in normal cycling. Now I can observe what is going south, but it's functioned fine for hours now wouldn't ya know it.....

 

[Pablo]

I took the side panel off this am. A little intimidating, but it's back together now. Really clean in there, nothing amiss in the movement.

I am now convinced this is the issue:

http://www.coltforum.com/forums/colt-revolvers/31649-stuck-trooper.html

I'm ordering the book and will shape the hand appropriately.

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=132389

 

[greenaccord02]

You're doing the right thing getting the kuhnhausen book. They say those are the bees-knees-be-all-end-all-bible for pretty much any topic related to guns. When I got my S&W model 10, I went through all manner of stuff trying to get it timed right. Only after watching several videos and reading more than a few books did I finally get everything perfect. Now, the old girl is timed like a swiss watch and a can tear down and re-build S&W revolvers all day, blindfolded. Of course, everything is backward on a Colt, so what I know probably wouldn't help you. I don't think anything in your gun is casehardened, but if it is be very careful not to remove much metal at all from those. As you may know, casehardened parts have only a very thin shell of super hard, long wearing exterior.

Getting the hand to not hang in the window, especially at it's highest point, while still rotating the cylinder and not binding on it can be difficult. Also, I got a super fine grit stone and polished every surface on every part that came in contact with any other part to a high, mirror shine. That slicks up the action so much, it's unreal. Takes a couple hours of work and a steady hand, but well worth it.

 

[Pablo]

I'm changing my story a bit. I don't think it was the hand after all.

I played rookie gunsmith this afternoon. With the side plate off the Trooper I took some parts in and out, one at a time, cleaned and lubed.

This helped:

http://www.coltparts.com/pt_troopermk3.html

I think there was some ancient crusty lube on some of the pins. Seems to be working now. Looks like it had not been open since 1973. Not really dirty, but shows just randomly squirting some lube in, doesn't really work.

I think I cured the problem. The only way I can make it happen is an unnatural action, that is thumbing the hammer partially like a maniac a few hundred times and even then it finally kinda partially catches and never really sticks. If I thumb the hammer back to full cocked position, it doesn't happen.

I'm ready to take it out to the range again.

 

[Tempest]

Quote:
The cylinder doesn't bind.

That's good. I usually find that these things are caused by build up in the forcing cone area that interferes with the cylinder.

My SP-101 will bind quickly with lead ammo due to this.

The Kuhnhausen books are the best that I have seen. A must have for working on guns.

 

[Pablo]

Update:

At least I have gained some gunsmithing skills and knowledge. Not related at all I did the slide stop mod on both my 1911's

Anyway, completely stripped down the Mk III. I am very familiar with the revolver now. I found at least one mistake by the previous jackwagon. The trigger return spring arm was not in the recess of the safety connector pivot pin. I noticed this in Fig 92 when I was reading Vol II of "the book" last night. I said to myself - "...hey mine isn't like that..." So this AM I pulled it apart again (easy as pie now) and wow the trigger is much smoother.

I put my new Wolff springs in as well, plus cleaned a few more things up and reassembled with grease. Wuff - what a gun!

I discharged 6 quick ones (.38 special) into the berm behind the garage with no issues - the only day of the year I can get away with such a thing since the neighbors have been doing thermonuclear devices all day.

I'm off tomorrow, so it's range time again!

 

[Pablo]

Never had such a good feeling at the range. WOW. I fixed it. And with the spring kit the gun is so awesome!!! DA is super sweet. SA is target light. Man what an awesome revolver. I am completely stoked!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[greenaccord02]

Nice! When you really get a revolver tuned up right it's a beautiful thing.