Collinite 845

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Az, from NJ, via NYC
I just put a coat on and the car looks great. Unfortunately, I am losing my garage
space and I need something to protect it in the Arizona sun. Recommendations? Thanks
 
Do you mean like a car cover or another layer of Sealant? Did you wash the car first, then clay bar, after that used a compound, following this a polish (until you're pleased with the result between 2 to 4 layers (3-4 layers are showroom exotic shine)) and the sealant last?

With it being in the desert you would want to do this process twice a year. Below is what process I used for the same hot-dry climate. Mind you this is done over 3 weekends since detailing it right can take several hours per application and to avoid having your arm fall off doing it all at once.

Step 1 - Clean out and vacuum
Step 2 - Wash: Duragloss 902
Step 3 - Clay Bar
Step 4 - Compound: Meguiar's Ultimate
Step 5 - Polish: Menzerna
Step 6a - determine a) weekend drive around town car shine (2 layers) or b) turn heads and jaws drop with exotic car-like shine (4 layers)
Step 7 - Sealant: Collonite #845

As far as a car cover, sorry I can't recommend one for UV protection since I have not seen a chart posted with many to compare.
 
Stay with the 845 bu, find another garage!
That AZ sun is the murder on the paint.
smile.gif
 
Step 1. Hose off.
Step 2. Use Duragloss Rinseless wash with Aquawax once a week.
Step 3. Dry with a few plush microfiber towels.
Step 4. Put feet up and have a few cold beers. <------ priceless.
 
It will protect your paint in the Arizona sun as well as it does in the South Texas sun. Reapply it every 4 to 6 months and enjoy the shine and protection. This is providing you have given it a clean surface to begin with. No worries......
 
Not much stands up to Arizona sunshine, as I'm sure you know. So I wouldn't get my hope up. Collinite does have UV protection I found out. So I guess the drill would be to keep a good coat of wax and then maintenance wash and spray wax with UV protective spray wax and keep your fingers crossed. A car cover that was thick enough to shade the car would protect against UV.

There's more to it than UV protection in my opinion. Just having it cook on the driveway at 120 degrees all summer long is probably bad for it, with or without UV protection.
 
Originally Posted By: 285south
Do you mean like a car cover or another layer of Sealant? Did you wash the car first, then clay bar, after that used a compound, following this a polish (until you're pleased with the result between 2 to 4 layers (3-4 layers are showroom exotic shine)) and the sealant last?

With it being in the desert you would want to do this process twice a year. Below is what process I used for the same hot-dry climate. Mind you this is done over 3 weekends since detailing it right can take several hours per application and to avoid having your arm fall off doing it all at once.

Step 1 - Clean out and vacuum
Step 2 - Wash: Duragloss 902
Step 3 - Clay Bar
Step 4 - Compound: Meguiar's Ultimate
Step 5 - Polish: Menzerna
Step 6a - determine a) weekend drive around town car shine (2 layers) or b) turn heads and jaws drop with exotic car-like shine (4 layers)
Step 7 - Sealant: Collonite #845

As far as a car cover, sorry I can't recommend one for UV protection since I have not seen a chart posted with many to compare.

I would really advise against compounding your car once a year...
 
Agree do not compound once a year. I compound once every 4-5 years myself.

You should only even be polishing with a finish polish only twice a year really. More important than the polishing is simply taking care of the car. Wash it often, or at least once a month and very important dry it properly with a microfiber waffle weave or carefully with an absorber. I also use spray detailer, I make my own, I keep in the trunk for on the go bird bomb cleanings.

I even use a microfiber car duster in between washes sometimes. This only works well if you keep your car waxed. I tend to wax mine every other car wash. This lets me use the car duster and all the dust just falls off the car. If the paint starts looking a little swirly instead of my usual Collinite waxings I'll use a decent cleaner wax on my cheapy wax spreader like in the link I posted before but with a foam pad. I've since modified the waxer to take Harbor Freight 6" polishing pads since the original foam backing wore out. Meguiars NXT 2.0 and the wax spreader also basically extends my polishing now probably to once a year since it cleans and hides/eliminates fine swirls so well.

My cars are kept outdoors 24/7 and in the hot southern California sun which is comparable in paint punishment to anything in Arizona. And they never have problems. But I've posted before that even the mighty Collinite which can last all winter in those wintery states but just seems to evaporate off paint that never gets wet. I've seen it last 6 months in New Jersey from fall, through winter and spring and it still beads effectively. But through a constant summer heat wave in California I've seen the beading go in less than 8 weeks with Collinite.

So the gist of it is wash it often (albeit carefully), wax it often with a high quality pure wax like Collinite, you can use a cleaner wax and machine if some swirl reduction is needed between real polishings, and you'll have no problems. And don't compound once a year. Finish polishing up to a maximum of about two a year is fine though. A recompounding of the whole car is almost never needed for me unless things get really bad.
 
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To add to Qwertydude's excellent post, a compound is rarely needed - even for serious defects.

Most people would think that this car needed compound, but all that was used to fix this was a finishing polish and a light cutting pad:



(And no, I cannot take credit for the work above. A friend of mine did this.)

Anyway, to the OP, apply a quality paint sealant every 3-4 months and minimize compounding...and that is the best you can do. A paint coating will reduce maintenance, but it may not have any advantage in terms of UV protection.
 
Is that a Honda? Soft paint makes correction a breeze.

I can tell you I finally had to bust out the trusty Makita Dual Mode polisher and use compound for my new purchase. Sold my Ford Focus. Got a 2012 Cadillac CTS Coupe. Gloss black. Officially THE hardest paint I've ever come across and also just in general black is the toughest to keep looking good. This paint is harder then the usual suspects like the German cars. Harder than Mercedes, BMW, or Audi. Something about Cadillac clear coat is just insanely hard.

Pics to come. Gotta wait for the weekend to take some beauty shots. Sorry, had no time for a detailed post. It's just your standard paint correction technique anyways that you can read up on on countless posts on autopia.
 
Originally Posted By: qwertydude
Is that a Honda? Soft paint makes correction a breeze.

Nope, it was a W211 E-class.

Congrats on the CTS.
 
Just to reiterate what some of the other guys have said, avoid compounding and even polishing as much as you can. Once you get the finish where you want it to be, there is NO substitute for a methodical wash regimen (two bucket method with grit guards), occasional light surface decontamination (Nanoskin), and regular applications of a quality wax/sealant. If you do those things right you'll practically eliminate (not 100%, but close) the need to ever polish.
 
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