I'm not the bravest person in the world. In the past I have always idled my rig while sleeping (I'm an otr driver) if the outside temp was down near zero (F) and headed lower at the time of parking. It allowed me to sleep well, especially when parking in the middle of nowhere.
Since the advent of electronicly controlled diesels almost 3 decades ago, starting in the cold has been no problem. If the batteries are healthy and the fuel isn't gelled, the engine will (usually) start regardless of whether the oil wants to flow or not.
I think it's been two or three weeks ago now that I spent a couple days and nights in northern Wisconsin and Minnesota (nothing new for me but it was great weather for a test of my nerves). Two days/nights I shut my truck off for 14-15 hours at a time with temps never getting above -4 (F) and there was a strong wind to quickly wisk away the heat of the engine when I parked.
With fairly fresh batteries, treated fuel and Delo XLE 10w30 in the sump, starting at -22 and -26 was almost effortless (there is an intake air heater that comes on after firing). The entire time that I was parked I was using battery power running the radio and heater and the occasional appliance. However, had plenty of voltage left to quickly fire the engine.
If you're still awake, the point I was building up to is the oil must have flowed without a hint of trouble. The oil pressure gauge remained still for about four seconds (counting "one thousand one, one thousand two", etc) but then shot up to full pressure quickly. I've done plenty of cold starts on 15W40 and the needle can move pretty slow at much more reasonable temps.
I know it can get colder, but I was impressed with 10W30. I don't think an expensive 5W40 would have been of any benefit in the same circumstances. I did run T6 in the previous oci but the winter had been mild until mid January.
My sincere apologies to those who want the last few minutes of your life back. Just sayin' 0W oils may have their place, but a 10W flowed just fine for the temps I saw. I was amazed, myself.
Cold starts easy peasy with 10W30
- Thread starter dustyroads
- Start date
- Status
- Joined
- Dec 30, 2006
- Messages
- 29,570
I had vwb 20W50 in my car,sitting outside all night. Next morning was -2F. Started up soon as I turned the key,smooth as silk,purring like a happy kitty!
Oil pressure and oil flow are not always the same. There have been cases of oil filters bursting in extreme cold temps because of too thick oil and pressure build up at the filter. Here is a link explaining this.
http://www.tempestplus.com/Portals/0/PDFs/Alaska%20Cold%20Starts%200613.pdf
Last edited:
Maybe that low friction cylinder liner on the D13 with the high efficiency oil scraper ring combined with the new oil help with the starting cycle.
A friend in northern Canada claims his similar D13 rig with tne new 10w-30 oil starts with no problems in weather that's always below zero. This was not the case with his old rig and 15w-40 oil.
The new oil is just part of the easier starting.
Originally Posted By: tig1
Oil pressure and oil flow are not always the same. There have been cases of oil filters bursting in extreme cold temps because of too thick oil and pressure build up at the filter. Here is a link explaining this.
http://www.tempestplus.com/Portals/0/PDFs/Alaska%20Cold%20Starts%200613.pdf
This gives me an idea to make a more interesting comparison. What would it be like starting a prechamber engine with mechanical injection with 15w40 versus 10w30.
OK, a bit late to edit my last post.
In an Automotive engine (any that I have had experience with) I could not imagine the oil pump overwhelming ANY appropriate filters by-pass valve, providing the engine RPM is even half reasonable.
But I imagine if you start an engine at zero F and Red line it, you might be successful 
Aircraft engines, I don't know. I imagine they are bigger and have very high oil flow.
But regardless, high RPM on a stone cold engine is just Stupid!
Aircraft engines, I don't know. I imagine they are bigger and have very high oil flow.
But regardless, high RPM on a stone cold engine is just Stupid!Typical. People believe what they hear and read but have no real life experience. You have fuel issues long before oil issues. 20w50 does not turn to a solid at 32 degrees.
Originally Posted By: tig1
Oil pressure and oil flow are not always the same. There have been cases of oil filters bursting in extreme cold temps because of too thick oil and pressure build up at the filter. Here is a link explaining this.
http://www.tempestplus.com/Portals/0/PDFs/Alaska%20Cold%20Starts%200613.pdf
dustyroads,
your temperatures should be fine.
Here's a couple of charts that I've lifted from some older studies, but should help explain what you saw...your engine will be different, and behave differently, but the trend is there.
Two measures are used in the "W" rating of your oil, yours being 10W. MRV and CCS.
MRV is how the oil flows under low shear rates, in feeding the pickup screen, and flowing into the pump to be pushed around. CCS is how the engine cranks.
Here's an idea of what the "W" rating does to the startability of an engine...the CCS moves the "startable" point, which is the engine turning over quick enough to fire to the cold end.
Here's what the MRV does, and this particular test on two oils shows that the establishment of oil pressure depends on how well the oil makes it to the pump to be pushed into the oil galleries (much smaller extent on how it flows THROUGH the galleries).
Same thing, lower "W" moves the behaviours to the colder ranges... RAOT is how long oil took to flow from the rockers (on that engine), and FOPT is the time to full oil pressure.
In the starts that you describe, there would be little to no change in your 4 seconds by going to a 5W or 0W...drop another 10F, and the 10W might take another 10-15 seconds to do the same, and a 5W would be in it's realm.
Here's what the MRV does, and this particular test on two oils shows that the establishment of oil pressure depends on how well the oil makes it to the pump to be pushed into the oil galleries (much smaller extent on how it flows THROUGH the galleries).
Same thing, lower "W" moves the behaviours to the colder ranges... RAOT is how long oil took to flow from the rockers (on that engine), and FOPT is the time to full oil pressure.
In the starts that you describe, there would be little to no change in your 4 seconds by going to a 5W or 0W...drop another 10F, and the 10W might take another 10-15 seconds to do the same, and a 5W would be in it's realm.
Don't the HEUI power strokes start much better on a 5w-40 or 10w-30 than 15w40 as well?
Well, since I started using a 10w30 blend in my factory rebuilt 2000 12.7L Detroit 60, it has done much better on cold starts and overall operation. So even somewhat older heavy truck engines can benefit. Detroit lube manual allows for year round use of 10w30 in all of it's MBE, Series 60, and DD13/15 engines.
Leo99, being on the road as a trucker is not that big of a deal. I long since gave up the running all over the country for weeks on end game. Since 1999, I have narrowed my focus to upper Midwest. Lot's of freight moves around that area. Last year, I took a full month off, am off every weekend and holiday, by the house during the week intermittently, and I make more and net more than I ever did running all over the country. Just took Monday off for the Iowa Caucus, and set up a load so that I would not have to leave out till Wednesday so that I could avoid dealing with Tuesday's snow storm. Just a business with business decisions like any other. Just the "office" has a different view every day.
Rotella T6 5W40 and T5 10W30 do have similar cold starting viscosities. I did try one winter with 15W40 in my tractor and even at -10C, starting was a bit more difficult than I liked. I'm back to 5W40 and now only worry about the hydraulic fluid getting up to temp in cold weather.
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
I had vwb 20W50 in my car,sitting outside all night. Next morning was -2F. Started up soon as I turned the key,smooth as silk,purring like a happy kitty!
Originally Posted By: OneEyeJack
Maybe that low friction cylinder liner on the D13 with the high efficiency oil scraper ring combined with the new oil help with the starting cycle.
A friend in northern Canada claims his similar D13 rig with tne new 10w-30 oil starts with no problems in weather that's always below zero. This was not the case with his old rig and 15w-40 oil.
The new oil is just part of the easier starting.
Originally Posted By: artificialist
This gives me an idea to make a more interesting comparison. What would it be like starting a prechamber engine with mechanical injection with 15w40 versus 10w30.
Originally Posted By: 29662
I started my bike(VFR800), in single digit temperatures with Rotella 15-40 in it. Started right up. And yes, I rode that day.
- Status
Similar threads
