Coil Spring Compressors

A bench mounted one always seemed the best to me.

Spring Compressor.webp
 
I used a simpler and more dangerous set of these to change the struts on my 528e. After I nearly had my head taken off when a clamp slipped,I figured out that the spring didn't need much compression. It just needs to be held in place so the upper mount doesn't hit you in the head
 
Is that better than OTC strut tamer?

Probably less expensive, as I think the strut tamer has gone up a bit recently.
 
Is that better than OTC strut tamer?

Probably less expensive, as I think the strut tamer has gone up a bit recently.
Not sure if it is better, but I am looking for something less permanent (in my home garage) since I only do struts a few times per year.

This one doesn't look too shabby either:
 
After watching one Branick Video and one JackTech video, I'm sold on the JackTech. It's a breeze to use compared to the Branick. I almost feel sorry for the guy in the Branick video; that was painful to watch. And when I saw "Made in Korea" on the box, I knew then it was a serious product. Those guys in Korea are smart. I watch another channel on YouTube about welders in Korea; some of the best welders in the world come out of Korea.









welding mon videos
https://www.youtube.com/@weldingmon4857/videos
 
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Does anyone own this style of coil spring compressor?

Product: https://www.jbtools.com/jack-tech-sk-3000-strut-spring-compressor/
Demos:




I like the spring securement design better than Branick's. It seems like the SK-3000 can work pretty well for applications with shorter springs. Storage isn't terrible for the home user either - the footprint looks rather small.


I purchased a $130 Chinese clone version of the SK-3000 spring compressor from eBay, but I don't like how it works. I have used it three times and each time, the compression process cocks the spring slightly, causing it to compress unevenly. The problem with this design is due to the upper "hooks" having a limited amount of vertical height adjustment on the upper red arms. Springs that have coils that are widely or narrowly spaced requires that the upper "hooks" be rotated off 180 degrees relative to each other, thereby causing uneven compression between the left and right side of the spring.

Another problem I encountered when replacing a Honda strut is the brake hose mounting bracket that is welded onto the strut below the lower spring seat interfered with the bottom clamping arm of the compressor to the point where it could not be secured safely.

I also question the long term integrity of the locking ratchet mechanism that keeps the "handwheel/arms" in the locked compressed position. You simply release the tension to unload the spring by turning the handwheel/arms in the opposite direction past some kind of internal ratchet detent. I have actually resorted to having an assistant hold the levers in place since there doesn't appear to have a true positive locking mechanism, per se.

I have used the Branick 7600 wall-mount unit and it is much safer, easier and more adaptable to different styles of struts/springs.
 
There should be a better way to stabilize it instead of having to hold your foot on the base.
Later in the vid there's a higher end version shown which had a base that looked more like a quality trans jack with casters.
 
After watching one Branick Video and one JackTech video, I'm sold on the JackTech. It's a breeze to use compared to the Branick. I almost feel sorry for the guy in the Branick video; that was painful to watch. And when I saw "Made in Korea" on the box, I knew then it was a serious product. Those guys in Korea are smart. I watch another channel on YouTube about welders in Korea; some of the best welders in the world come out of Korea.









welding mon videos
https://www.youtube.com/@weldingmon4857/videos

According to the title that's a 7200, which isn't the latest model.

The one thing I do find interesting is that both the 7200 and 7600 put the strut behind the "bridge" (which he mentions in the vid and that's a bit of his struggle).

My old MST580a kicks everything forward of the bridge, making for great access, although I am NOT suggesting the old model is superior to a 7600.
20230203_172709.webp


Also, 7600 vid from Eric the Car Guy. Looks pretty simple to me
 
I purchased a $130 Chinese clone version of the SK-3000 spring compressor from eBay, but I don't like how it works. I have used it three times and each time, the compression process cocks the spring slightly, causing it to compress unevenly. The problem with this design is due to the upper "hooks" having a limited amount of vertical height adjustment on the upper red arms. Springs that have coils that are widely or narrowly spaced requires that the upper "hooks" be rotated off 180 degrees relative to each other, thereby causing uneven compression between the left and right side of the spring.

Another problem I encountered when replacing a Honda strut is the brake hose mounting bracket that is welded onto the strut below the lower spring seat interfered with the bottom clamping arm of the compressor to the point where it could not be secured safely.

I also question the long term integrity of the locking ratchet mechanism that keeps the "handwheel/arms" in the locked compressed position. You simply release the tension to unload the spring by turning the handwheel/arms in the opposite direction past some kind of internal ratchet detent. I have actually resorted to having an assistant hold the levers in place since there doesn't appear to have a true positive locking mechanism, per se.

I have used the Branick 7600 wall-mount unit and it is much safer, easier and more adaptable to different styles of struts/springs.
Interesting. We have a Branick at the shop and it has not worked very well for the late model Toyota truck/SUV springs. My main issue is that the three arms (upper and lower) are in a fixed position and the sliding arms are often not long enough. Plus the surface area on the arms is very small.

If you able to get all 3 lower arms into a position where good contact is made, chances are, you are unable to get good contact with the 3 top arms. I often resort to putting the 3 top arms on the bearing plate or the upper spring seat.

The spacing between the first and second coils (on the bottom) can be a bit funky with Toyota springs, and I think this may be part of the problem:

1675471721174.png

1675471833238.png


Mounted on the Branick:

329215996_3426061447664493_7588129020696290335_n.jpg
 
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