Clutch safety switch purpose?

I'm trying to envision how this Neutral Safety Switch would work on a Manual, Probably need 2 switches wired in series.....One for each Shift Rail.

When I'm diagnosing a Bolt Action vehicle & the Clutch Switch is aggravating my process, I just bypass the switch temporarily.
Love the description " Bolt Action vehicle". Very poetic lol
I’ve always started any stick car in neutral with my foot off the clutch for the thrust bearing thing mentioned earlier. I’ve seen some thrust bearings with shallow grooves machined in them so pressurized oil makes it way to the surface.
I have always started every stick vehicle I've ever owned by pushing in on the clutch, simply because the starter doesn't have to turn over the extra drag of the transmission, especially when ice cold. Plus it is just a safer way to do it, switch or not, and in neutral. Common sense.
You can't make people smart. One would think if they can drive a manual transmission they should be able to control the car. But things happen.
I have made it a habit to do the shaking the shifter back and forth before starting. Although even then some mornings when I don't get enough sleep I catch myself almost making a mistake.
I have made it a habit to do the shaking the shifter back and forth before starting. Although even then some mornings when I don't get enough sleep I catch myself almost making a mistake.

I almost always do that when going into neutral.

I also take comfort in the fact that because it's a 2.0L AWD Turbo, even if I were to dump the clutch (without any gas of course), it'd most likely just stall without going anywhere.
My 5 year old WR450F allows engine cranking with the clutch engaged (lever out), in neutral. Surely this can be adapted to cars as multiple people have suggested multiple approaches above.
In my (now sold) Corvette, I let off the clutch immediately after starting, while in gear, without a set parking brake. It's not pretty or fun, and I only did it once. I am not a stupid person, everyone makes mistakes... usually they are called accidents, except my friends who like to call my mistakes "you're a F-king idiot." What are friends for, eh.
Driving stick in the eighties, we never even thought about it. Sticks were common. The clutch safety switch made sense, especially when cruise control came out. It took a long time when going to an automatic to not stab the floor with my left foot to start. And, clutch > N to reduce load on starter from spinning trans internals.

unfortunately, it did make limping in the last 100yds to a gas station harder, or 1/4 mile in my dads case.
My clutch on the Gen Coupe has two switches. One at the bottom for starting and another at the top to disengage the cruise control
How about this then... do DCT engines suffer thrust bearing issues, or have different thrust bearings? On my car, one clutch is pushed to open like any other clutch, the other is pushed to close.

Hyundai uses 2 open clutches that are pushed closed electrically. The engine is constantly experiencing thrust when driving.

Seems that 1 second of not receiving oil during cranking isn't that big of a deal

Been years since I've seen thrust bearings worn to the point of causing issues. I have no idea what caused their demise but a betting man would put his money on skipped oil changes...
I am no engineer nor am I familiar with Hyundai's dual clutch transmissions. However, comparing thrust bearing loading of a running engine to a non running engine on startup isn't a valid comparison.

Thrust bearings, like any other bearings, have a maximum load specification. Below this load, theoretically no wear should occur as long as adequate lubrication is provided as the oil is supposed to keep the surface of the thrust bearing separate from the surface of the crankshaft so metal to metal contact can not occur. In practice, some amount of wear does occur due to factors such as debris in the oil. If the thrust bearings are overloaded, metal to metal contact may occur and cause rapid failure.

However, the thrust bearings can also experience metal to metal contact and wear under normal loads if not lubricated properly. On a stock clutch, the wear on startup will probably be low enough that the owner of the car never sees any issues as a result of it. However, it is still easily avoidable wear however you look at it. And with an aftermarket heavy duty clutch, the wear could be much worse due to the higher bearing loading. I can think of several vehicles that are known for prematurely wearing the thrust bearings when heavy clutches are used. Exactly how much of this wear would have been prevented by not pressing the clutch on startup I have no idea, but I would think a significant amount.
theyve been around since the early 80s.

the automatic brake interlock came in a couple years later after people started getting run over by rogue audi 5000s
theyve been around since the early 80s.
My 1950 Studebaker had a clutch safety of sorts. The starter switch was located under the clutch pedal. You turned on the ignition key, pushed the clutch to the floor, then pressed a bit harder to activate the starter. It was easy to by-pass if you wanted by sticking your foot under the clutch pedal and pressing the switch directly.

They don't have it in Europe. Maybe they do now?
Depressing the clutch is so ingrained in my head that it happens involuntarily before I start anything with an manual transmission.

Dad had a 1980 AMC Concord with a 4-speed manual. No neutral safety switch.

I forgot to push in the clutch when starting *once*. Of course, when he was watching.

Needless to say that I've never again forgotten to push in the clutch, safety switch or not.
That could be, it has been almost a year since I have had a crankshaft out of an engine. But in any case, the fact that they receive no lubrication on startup other than whatever film of oil is left from whenever the engine was last run remains true.
Same is true about every journal bearing in the engine. Yet they last for 100s of thousands of miles. I'd say there is less relative loads on thrust bearings than on crank or rod bearings.
theyve been around since the early 80s.

the automatic brake interlock came in a couple years later after people started getting run over by rogue audi 5000s
That was a device for vehicles with automatic transmissions. In the end, the driver was at fault, and admitted it after years of court battles and almost sending Audi out of the forever.
I guess old Ford tractors didn't have them. One afternoon when I was five or six, in that quiet lull between milking shifts, I climbed up onto the little gray Ford parked in the barnyard. For some reason, I pushed the starter button. It fired and started moving. Luckily it must have been in low gear, and my uncle ran over and got it stopped before anything bad could happen. I did learn what button not to push.
Its to prevent kids named Joey from destroying garages

I didn't wreck the garage, bit I did roll my dad's 70's dodge colt wagon into the back of the neighbors car by keying the ignition switch when I was about 5. I suppose I could have hurt someone or actually managed to get it started, however, there was only a scuff to the cars, and a swat on my rear.
My Jeep has an empty spot in the fuse box to bypass the clutch start switch. It was the first thing I did was to put that fuse in.

On my f250 I cut and spliced the wires to bypass that switch.