Clutch Change - What Else?

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Clutch went yesterday on my Wife's Dacia Logan MCV with it's hugely powerful 90bhp 1.5 diesel engine.

It was expected, the car after all is 5 years old and had 108,000miles on the clock.

Anyway, other than the obvious clutch itself, what else is worth changing while it's out?

I was considering the slave cylinder. But what about driveshaft seals? Anything else to consider?
 
I don't mess with shaft seals unless or until they are leaking. I would just change the clutch parts here. By "went out" I assume you mean it started slipping at heavy throttle, which is almost always because the friction material on the disc is worn out.
 
I don't mess with shaft seals unless or until they are leaking. I would just change the clutch parts here. By "went out" I assume you mean it started slipping at heavy throttle, which is almost always because the friction material on the disc is worn out.

Starting slipping heavily at a click of a finger, just after a hill start. No build up or prior warning. Operates totally fine when the clutch is cold except the biting point is right at the top of the pedal.
 
I take for granted when doing a clutch job that the TOB, pilot bearing, pressure plate and disk get swapped out, and the flywheel if needed. Depending on the age of the vehicle the slave cylinder, RMS, and transmission front seal get done too. The last thing I want to do is drop the transmission a second time because the slave cylinder failed or I develop a leak from a bad seal.
 
My last experience with changing a clutch sucked. After I replaced all the replaceable parts, the clutch would grab about 1/4 inch off the floor. After trying to adjust it 2,000 times, my friends father who owned his own shop asked me if I had the flywheel cut?. The answer was no. So, back under the van, take everything back apart, removed the flywheel and dragged it to the local machine shop where they resurfaced the flywheel. Then I put everything back where it belonged. The clutch grabbed 2-3 inches off the floor like it should, no slippage, and shifted like butter. I'm not saying you will have the same problem, but let me tell you it would have been alot easier and faster, to have done the flywheel cutting the first time I had it all apart.,,
 
My last experience with changing a clutch sucked. After I replaced all the replaceable parts, the clutch would grab about 1/4 inch off the floor. After trying to adjust it 2,000 times, my friends father who owned his own shop asked me if I had the flywheel cut?. The answer was no. So, back under the van, take everything back apart, removed the flywheel and dragged it to the local machine shop where they resurfaced the flywheel. Then I put everything back where it belonged. The clutch grabbed 2-3 inches off the floor like it should, no slippage, and shifted like butter. I'm not saying you will have the same problem, but let me tell you it would have been alot easier and faster, to have done the flywheel cutting the first time I had it all apart.,,
Depending on the vehicle you might want to replace the flywheel instead of having it machined. I replaced it on my Jeep when I did the clutch, since it isn't recommended to machine the flywheel due to the design of it.
 
My last experience with changing a clutch sucked. After I replaced all the replaceable parts, the clutch would grab about 1/4 inch off the floor. After trying to adjust it 2,000 times, my friends father who owned his own shop asked me if I had the flywheel cut?. The answer was no. So, back under the van, take everything back apart, removed the flywheel and dragged it to the local machine shop where they resurfaced the flywheel. Then I put everything back where it belonged. The clutch grabbed 2-3 inches off the floor like it should, no slippage, and shifted like butter. I'm not saying you will have the same problem, but let me tell you it would have been alot easier and faster, to have done the flywheel cutting the first time I had it all apart.,,
Sometimes the flywheel has to be shimmed after it being cut. I will be doing the clutch in my E-150 shortly. Since finding a competent machine shop is like finding a winning lotto ticket around here I'm replacing it with an OE flywheel. I don't ever want to have to do this clutch again.
 
If the slave cylinder is on the outside of the bell housing, unbolt it so you can remove the transmission, instead of detaching the hose. Leave the fluid line in place and you won't have to bleed it later. Don't let anyone push the clutch pedal while it is unmounted.
 
I’m a fan of replacing the rear main seal while in there, with a full clutch kit. Flywheel should probably be resurfaced. If the slave cylinder is inside the bell housing, factory oem replacement.

NOTE: clutch might not be gone - have you checked to see if there is any provision left to adjust it?
 
Thanks for the advice guys. I'm hoping to shift the gearbox across a few inches as opposed to removing it, so I think replacing the oil seals would be nigh on impossible. Sticking with the clutch and slave!

So far it's been straight forward. I've removed everything from the gearbox including the driveshafts and mounts. Hopefully this afternoon I'll unbolt the gearbox from the block, swap the clutch and slave out and get the box bolted back upto the engine. Might even bleed the clutch today. It's raining tomorrow so a day off for me, then hopefully Sunday I can finish putting everything back together.

If the gearbox won't shift far enough out the way to get the clutch change done then I'm probably going to have to drop the subframe.
 

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Can you not support the engine from the top and drop the trans?

It would be a poor design if the subframe is in the way. Most FWD VWs only take an hour or so to drop the trans after your first time
 
Can you not support the engine from the top and drop the trans?

It would be a poor design if the subframe is in the way. Most FWD VWs only take an hour or so to drop the trans after your first time

Bare in mind this car is no wider than a Ford Fiesta. I'm pretty confident that if I have to pull the gearbox then I'm going to have to pull the subframe. Lets see what this afternoon brings. I'll take plenty of photos!
 
My clutch finally went out on my '08 Hyundai Accent. 185k miles on the OE. And it's not the disc but the shaft is dry and it's hanging up when hot.

Had it towed to a repair shop as I broke down in traffic. They estimated $3800 with all they were going to replace. Basically everything they took off they wanted to put back new. Trans mounts, slave, control arm, ball joints.....

It's my summer job I guess. Started picking at it the other day then the heat wave came. Was thinking of just taking the whole motor out.
 
Bare in mind this car is no wider than a Ford Fiesta. I'm pretty confident that if I have to pull the gearbox then I'm going to have to pull the subframe. Lets see what this afternoon brings. I'll take plenty of photos!
Yeah I mean I've done a clutch on a Polo G40 and I think it's smaller than your Dacia
 
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