Clutch Change - What Else?

[RooflessVW]

Wowzer…

It starts to add up for sure.

Clutch, pressure plate, TO bearing, new dual mass flywheel, seals, markup on parts, probably 6ish hours of labor...

And then if this car has any "gotchas" that are beneficial to have done at the same time, like the VW 2.5 vacuum pump seal...

 

[SHOZ]

Wowzer…

They asked what I expected and I said around $1500. They said the clutch parts were $1100! I didn't hesitate and told them to push it out of the building and I'd have it picked up...... $275 for towing so far.

Great winter car for around here.

 

[supton]

Ouch. Granted it was 10 years ago but when i had the clutch done in my vw it was $700 otd. 2 or 3 hour job? not even on a lift.

 

[Trav]

Can you not support the engine from the top and drop the trans?

It would be a poor design if the subframe is in the way. Most FWD VWs only take an hour or so to drop the trans after your first time

The VW ones are easy but a lot of FWD car today have to have the cradle dropped out to remove the trans. Nothing like the old Opel Kadett FWD 20 min clutch job where you didnt even need to remove the trans, cv axles, shifter or anything to do the job.

Astra was similar but even more difficult, the Kadett had a plug on the rear of the trans not a housing. Pretty interesting to see how Euro mechanics do some jobs.

 

[Hyundai Respecter]

They asked what I expected and I said around $1500. They said the clutch parts were $1100! I didn't hesitate and told them to push it out of the building and I'd have it picked up...... $275 for towing so far.

Great winter car for around here.

Rock Auto has a Sachs clutch kit for your car for less than $150 or an Exedy kit for $200. A Sachs flywheel is around $150, rear main seal only a few bucks. That shop either didn’t want the job or over charges by a lot for the parts. Try getting quotes from other shops.

 

[RooflessVW]

The VW ones are easy but a lot of FWD car today have to have the cradle dropped out to remove the trans. Nothing like the old Opel Kadett FWD 20 min clutch job where you didnt even need to remove the trans, cv axles, shifter or anything to do the job.

Astra was similar but even more difficult, the Kadett had a plug on the rear of the trans not a housing. Pretty interesting to see how Euro mechanics do some jobs.

That's a very thoughtful design. I remember the first time I pulled an 020. The pushrod/finger arrangement for the throwout bearing blew my teenage mind.

 

[Trav]

Done a few of those over the years Golf/GTI 1/2

 

[SHOZ]

That's where I

Rock Auto has a Sachs clutch kit for your car for less than $150 or an Exedy kit for $200. A Sachs flywheel is around $150, rear main seal only a few bucks. That shop either didn’t want the job or over charges by a lot for the parts. Try getting quotes from other shops.

Was probably going to get a LUK kit and slave off the flea bay. That's what's in it now. They quoted a Hastings kit they get at one of the local parts stores.

 

[eljefino]

You may not have to drop the subframe but you probably will have to pull the knuckle, which is easier when you pull the strut too.

IDK your car specifically.

 

[SHOZ]

Already got the knuckles loose and the axels out. Thinking about pulling the motor as I was going to use an engine crane to support the motor. It will have two of the three mounts off.

 

[SHOZ]

A lot of shops don't do clutches anymore. Took me 4 calls to find this place.

 

[Hyundai Respecter]

Already got the knuckles loose and the axels out. Thinking about pulling the motor as I was going to use an engine crane to support the motor. It will have two of the three mounts off.

A lot of shops don't do clutches anymore. Took me 4 calls to find this place.

I don’t even think the Hyundai dealer would charge as much as that shop, though it’s been a long time since I had a dealer replace a clutch (late 90s) and it was about $900 then. But it looks like you’re taking the job on yourself. I don’t know if you have to remove the engine, that seems like a lot of extra work. I don’t have experience replacing a clutch, that might be a little too much for me to handle, but I sometimes like to watch a YouTube guy change clutches and I see him using a block of wood on a floor jack to support the engine.

 

[Bailes1992]

Clutch all swapped out yesterday. The friction plate didn't look too bad. It was tired, but certainly didn't look bad enough to be slipping.

The slave cylinder however was all beaten up, stiff and gritty when you actuated it by hand. I suspect it was this that was causing the clutch to slip, not releasing the pressure plate entirely when it was hot.

Pictures below, you'll see I managed to move the gearbox enough and cable tie it to the battery tray out the way to do the swap. Worked out quite well!

 

[nthach]

If it was me, I’d replace all the seals, check the flywheel for bluing(and replace if needed) and if the slave cylinder is leaking or the clutch cable’s housing/inner wire is damaged, chuck it.

 

[SHOZ]

I don’t even think the Hyundai dealer would charge as much as that shop, though it’s been a long time since I had a dealer replace a clutch (late 90s) and it was about $900 then. But it looks like you’re taking the job on yourself. I don’t know if you have to remove the engine, that seems like a lot of extra work. I don’t have experience replacing a clutch, that might be a little too much for me to handle, but I sometimes like to watch a YouTube guy change clutches and I see him using a block of wood on a floor jack to support the engine.

My bet the Hyundai dealer would be close. Hard to guarantee a job when reusing old parts. I do see the ball joint boots are ripped.

 

[demarpaint]

Make sure you have a good high MoS2 spline grease on hand for the pilot bearing, face of the TOB where it makes contact with the clutch fingers, and the spline on the transmission shaft. Use it sparingly. Thanks again to @Trav for reminding me. It's been a lot of years since the last time I replaced a clutch, and sourcing that type of grease locally was impossible, at least for me. I grabbed this from Amazon. Spline grease

 

[Bailes1992]

Make sure you have a good high MoS2 spline grease on hand for the pilot bearing, face of the TOB where it makes contact with the clutch fingers, and the spline on the transmission shaft. Use it sparingly. Thanks again to @Trav for reminding me. It's been a lot of years since the last time I replaced a clutch, and sourcing that type of grease locally was impossible, at least for me. I grabbed this from Amazon. Spline grease

Bit late for that. I just cleaned up the shaft with some brake clean and a cloth and applied the smallest amount of copper slip.

Something oil related. When we purchased the car I drained what I believed to be the factory fill out of the gearbox and installed Fuchs Titan Race Synchro 75w90 which I had sat on the shelf. The gearbox was better than it was on the original fill but I still felt it to be a little notchy. Now the official specification is a 75w80 GL-4 lube so I figured that the Fuchs Titan Race being a 75w90 might be a bit thick. I made the decision after about 2,000miles on the 75w90 to install Fuchs Titan Sintofluid 75w80. The gearchange was lighter, but I still felt it to be a little 'clicky' and notchy but I figured this was just how the gearbox was.

Anyway, I while surfing my favourite oil website I found an offer on some Millers Oils TRX Synth GL-5 75w80 which is universal MTF that has been recently rebranded to XF Premium MTF 75w80. Millers Oil are a bit like the British version of Amsoil and they're a very well regarded company over here. I managed to pick up a 5 litre jug of the old-branded product for just £30 delivered. This oil has made the gearbox super-slick and far nicer to use than it was previously so I'm very happy. I also have 2.5 litres left for the gearbox oil change on my Vauxhall Insignia when that hits 25,000miles.

I've also added the rest of the pictures I took, including the very corroded anti-roll bar link that I shamelessly re-installed.

 

[SHOZ]

Ordered most of what I know I need. $225 from Rock Auto for LUK clutch kit, slave cylinder with a couple quarts of fluid and two new ball joints. . LUK is probably what is in it.

Took the pass side tie rod off so I could get the axle all the way out. That side I have to be gentle as that's the OE axle still at 185k miles . If it wasn't so rusty I would get a new hub and axle now but they aren't that hard to change.

Got most stripped but need to take the starter out yet and then can start on the transmission bolts. Too hot though.....