clunking after Dexron VI
- Thread starter ehall
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- Sep 28, 2002
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I'd say that the advances in fluids has been in direct reaction to the failures with (or more failure prone) hardware. It may not be as true now, but surely for most of the 90's. I think that's where most of your rapid evolutions occurred.
Well you wasted your money putting both trans-x and auto-RX in their. Auto-Rx will waste itself buy sucking up the solvents in the Trans-X. Get that garbage out of their. I guess you can at least let the trans-x do some cleaning. I would install a drain plug in it from B&M. THis way you can drain and refill easily until you get all that garbage out of their. What I have found works great for GM transmissions is the ATF of your choice and a bottle that right the entire bottle of hyper lube.It will thicken that ATF right up. It does not have any friction modifers to wory about either. I used it on my wifes Buick LeSaber. I nursed another 50,000 miles out of it this way after it was slipping so bad that it burnt fresh fluid black in about 100 miles. It never slipped after that. The trany shop said it needed to be rebuilt at 104,000 miles. I replaced it with a used one at some place between 140,000-160,000. It would proably have been good for another 5000-10,000 but I was not going to push my luck with my wife and kids in the thing.
I would be wiling to bet good money that Trans-X did not help it???? Trans-X only helps if they transmission is dirty. Once you drain and refill at least two more times add the Auto-RX backin and try a 1/2 bottle of Hyper Lube.
I would be wiling to bet good money that Trans-X did not help it???? Trans-X only helps if they transmission is dirty. Once you drain and refill at least two more times add the Auto-RX backin and try a 1/2 bottle of Hyper Lube.
Originally Posted By: onion
Critic- I want to know something. What are your qualifications?
Every time a thread regarding Dexron VI is posted, you're among the first posts, loyally defending Dexron VI. That's all fine and good with me- it seems to be a vast improvement over Dex III. But I have a problem with some of the advice you've given (here and elsewhere- it's often nonsense). A screwed-up filter installation will not cause a 'clunk'. Can't happen. Sure, it can cause other problems... but 'clunk' is not among them. Personally, I blame either an over-active imagination or excessively dirty fluid before the service.
So... under occupation, you've listed "sales". It used to say "student". Perhaps you've finished school and now you sell Dexron VI? What exactly qualifies you to parrot advice all over BITOG when you clearly have no mechanical background?
Onion,
I responded to this thread as I wanted the OP to understand that Dexron-VI is not thinner than Dexron-III. I mentioned the filter and the o-ring as something to check, as it may possibly be the cause, or not. Either way, I wanted him to understand that the fluid type is not the problem and that he should look elsewhere.
As for the advice I give, I always try to research the subject and consult with a variety of sources before I post on here. I always strive to be accurate—please PM me and show me where I have been giving bad advice; I would really like to know and correct any misinformation. For the record, I am not affiliated with any auto manufacturers nor do I sell any automotive parts. As for my qualifications, I do not think I’m any different from many of the other members on this forum. I research the questions that I answer prior to posting, and I try to consult with professionals in the industry (including OEM) to gain different points-of-view. While I may not be a professional mechanic as you are, it does not mean that I am not qualified to give any advice. If that were the case, it would disqualify many individuals on this forum from participating.
Critic- I want to know something. What are your qualifications?
Every time a thread regarding Dexron VI is posted, you're among the first posts, loyally defending Dexron VI. That's all fine and good with me- it seems to be a vast improvement over Dex III. But I have a problem with some of the advice you've given (here and elsewhere- it's often nonsense). A screwed-up filter installation will not cause a 'clunk'. Can't happen. Sure, it can cause other problems... but 'clunk' is not among them. Personally, I blame either an over-active imagination or excessively dirty fluid before the service.
So... under occupation, you've listed "sales". It used to say "student". Perhaps you've finished school and now you sell Dexron VI? What exactly qualifies you to parrot advice all over BITOG when you clearly have no mechanical background?
Onion,
I responded to this thread as I wanted the OP to understand that Dexron-VI is not thinner than Dexron-III. I mentioned the filter and the o-ring as something to check, as it may possibly be the cause, or not. Either way, I wanted him to understand that the fluid type is not the problem and that he should look elsewhere.
As for the advice I give, I always try to research the subject and consult with a variety of sources before I post on here. I always strive to be accurate—please PM me and show me where I have been giving bad advice; I would really like to know and correct any misinformation. For the record, I am not affiliated with any auto manufacturers nor do I sell any automotive parts. As for my qualifications, I do not think I’m any different from many of the other members on this forum. I research the questions that I answer prior to posting, and I try to consult with professionals in the industry (including OEM) to gain different points-of-view. While I may not be a professional mechanic as you are, it does not mean that I am not qualified to give any advice. If that were the case, it would disqualify many individuals on this forum from participating.
Sometimes you will hear a clunk when you have worn out engine mounts, or CV joints.
To test engine mounts, put the car in drive, one foot on the brake, the other on the gas. Go to about 1500 RPM. The engine should not move more than 3 inches. Do the same in reverse.
To test CV joint wear, lift the car, and rotate the wheel forward and back while the gear selector is in park. the wheel should not turn more than a few degrees before the other wheel starts turning in the other direction.
To test engine mounts, put the car in drive, one foot on the brake, the other on the gas. Go to about 1500 RPM. The engine should not move more than 3 inches. Do the same in reverse.
To test CV joint wear, lift the car, and rotate the wheel forward and back while the gear selector is in park. the wheel should not turn more than a few degrees before the other wheel starts turning in the other direction.
could incorrect level of the atf - too much or too less - also cause such issues ?
sometimes the correct method of checking atf level varies by manufacturer and needs to be taken into account.
a basic yet important and often overlooked area of service that most shops ignore.
sometimes the correct method of checking atf level varies by manufacturer and needs to be taken into account.
a basic yet important and often overlooked area of service that most shops ignore.
Following up... the clunking noise pretty much disappeared entirely after about a month. I just hit the 1k mile marker after the additive treatment and took it to a tranny shop for another drain. The mechanic said the pan and old filter looked clean. I had them install the last of the Pennzoil Dexron VI fluid and another Wix filter, and it didn't start clunking again or anything.
I've talked to a few trusted people and they all say that clunking is mechanical and a fluid change should not cause it. Since I had some other work done during the same time (exhaust, brakes, suspension, etc) the clunking probably came from some of that instead, and has all worked itself out (my exhaust still pings and tinkles a little bit around town so I'm guessing that was the actual source). Regardless, my tranny is super clean now and it's shifting tight and smooth, so I'm guessing the 1k mile scrub did some good.
I've talked to a few trusted people and they all say that clunking is mechanical and a fluid change should not cause it. Since I had some other work done during the same time (exhaust, brakes, suspension, etc) the clunking probably came from some of that instead, and has all worked itself out (my exhaust still pings and tinkles a little bit around town so I'm guessing that was the actual source). Regardless, my tranny is super clean now and it's shifting tight and smooth, so I'm guessing the 1k mile scrub did some good.
MolaKule
Staff member
Quote:
I responded to this thread as I wanted the OP to understand that Dexron-VI is not thinner than Dexron-III.
Dexron VI specs show that it has a Maximum viscosity of 6.0 cSt at 100C whereas Dexron III can have a viscosity anywhere from 7.0 to 8.5 cSt.
I responded to this thread as I wanted the OP to understand that Dexron-VI is not thinner than Dexron-III.
Dexron VI specs show that it has a Maximum viscosity of 6.0 cSt at 100C whereas Dexron III can have a viscosity anywhere from 7.0 to 8.5 cSt.
Originally Posted By: MolaKule
Dexron III can have a viscosity anywhere from 7.0 to 8.5 cSt.
Yeah, for the first 2000 miles...
Dexron III can have a viscosity anywhere from 7.0 to 8.5 cSt.
Yeah, for the first 2000 miles...
While Dex-VI is thinner then Dex-III id do not see it as an issue. Have you ever seen how badly sheared Dex-III get's in as little as 30,000 miles in a transmission? Buy the time GM claims it should be serviced at 100,000 miles water would be as thick!LOL In fact Army Mess Hual Coffee is a lot thicker!!!LOL SO I do not think that the viscosity is the problem. That 4T60 is not that stout once in a while you see one make it to 300,000 but 90% of them are lucky to hit 160,000-200,000 miles and that is if they are service regularly buy their owner's instead of the 100,000 mile scheduled maintence. Usualy the TC starts to go and that takes out the seals inthe rest of the trans between the heat and the metal particles. The other failure avenue is pluged up filter starves the trans.! I had a boss that 330,000 miles on his 440-T4 and he always changed the fluid and pan filter every 12 months he drove an insane amount of miles to and from work. He had to replace the chain in the 440-T4 but that was it.His clunked badly with Dex-III.
My wifes 4T60E was shot at 104,000 miles due to GM's poor machineing and quality control their was a TSB for her car but it only covered the origanal owner while under warranty. So when we bought it from Grandma's estate we lost out. I nursed it to 140,000 before I had to get another low miles unit from the junk yard.
So I would drop the pan and make sure the little gaset that goes into the the bottom of the trans is fitted tightly and not leaking. If you want thicker then Dex-VI get some Valvoline Maxlife ATF that is Dex-III like and is about as thick as you will likely find. The alternative is to add a thickner like Hyper-Lube to the fluid. I do this all the time anymore to GM transmissions because I have found that they do much better with thicker fluid!The reason I use Hyper lube is because it is cheap, does not have any friction modifer's in it and it seems to work well. I use 1/2 a bottle normaly but in the wifes old transmission it took an entire bottle with fresh atf to stop it from slipping because the seals where so badly damaged and tC was so worn out. I never had any issue with foaming.
Now in the wifes new low milage used unit I used Walmart SuperTech High Milage ATF+1 small bottle of Lucas ATF treatment. It is sucha small volume of thickner it do not think it would thicken Dex-VI up though. The Lucas ATF treatment has seal swelling agents in it wich I thought might be a good idea in the used transmission just in case. So you could start with 1 bottle of Lucas ATF treatment and go from their. I would not add more then two of those little bottles though. I personely would drop the pan first and make sure the filter is installed properly or have the shop that did it double check.
My wifes 4T60E was shot at 104,000 miles due to GM's poor machineing and quality control their was a TSB for her car but it only covered the origanal owner while under warranty. So when we bought it from Grandma's estate we lost out. I nursed it to 140,000 before I had to get another low miles unit from the junk yard.
So I would drop the pan and make sure the little gaset that goes into the the bottom of the trans is fitted tightly and not leaking. If you want thicker then Dex-VI get some Valvoline Maxlife ATF that is Dex-III like and is about as thick as you will likely find. The alternative is to add a thickner like Hyper-Lube to the fluid. I do this all the time anymore to GM transmissions because I have found that they do much better with thicker fluid!The reason I use Hyper lube is because it is cheap, does not have any friction modifer's in it and it seems to work well. I use 1/2 a bottle normaly but in the wifes old transmission it took an entire bottle with fresh atf to stop it from slipping because the seals where so badly damaged and tC was so worn out. I never had any issue with foaming.
Now in the wifes new low milage used unit I used Walmart SuperTech High Milage ATF+1 small bottle of Lucas ATF treatment. It is sucha small volume of thickner it do not think it would thicken Dex-VI up though. The Lucas ATF treatment has seal swelling agents in it wich I thought might be a good idea in the used transmission just in case. So you could start with 1 bottle of Lucas ATF treatment and go from their. I would not add more then two of those little bottles though. I personely would drop the pan first and make sure the filter is installed properly or have the shop that did it double check.
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