Cleaning up aluminum caliper.

[Rust_Belt_Pete]

I have an aluminum caliper that is stripped down and I need go get the baked on beake dust off.
The sand blaster at work is too strong and aggressive.
I used an ultrasonic cleaner and it did a good job but after a certain point it stopped removing the baked on stuff.

Would a 3m roloc green bristle thing be able to clean up this soft aluminum caliper ?

 

[KrisZ]

How much elbow grease are you willing to put in?
Steel wool and some wd40 cleans up aluminum very well. You can step it up to 600 grit sand paper. But always use some type of lubricant. It makes the aluminum dust a slurry which is much easier to control and clean up.

If you want a chemical cleaner, try an aluminum brightening product, which is usually a phosphoric acid solution.

 

[Rust_Belt_Pete]

I used the green scrubby and I used stiff bristle metal brush and its not putting in a dent

 

[KrisZ]

Ok, if the green pad is not making a dent, then you need to step it up to sand paper.

 

[NOTEVIL81]

Brass cup brush on a drill.

 

[Rust_Belt_Pete]

Also holy crap after a degrease it rusts super fast. I added some oil as I work on it to protect the bore and threads.

 

[KrisZ]

If you’re planning to paint it anyways, just smooth out the pitting and be done with it. It doesn’t need to go to bare aluminum again. Unlike metal or cast iron, the oxidation layer on aluminum will not progress any further under the paint.

 

[Donald]

What is this from? Boat trailer?

Painting aluminum properly is a multi step process. Most people do not do it properly.

What is the endgame?

 

[Rust_Belt_Pete]

This is from a mini cooper.
End game? Paint it pretty glossy red with 2 part eastwood epoxy paint?
I know nothing about prepping aluminum.

 

[Rust_Belt_Pete]

If you’re planning to paint it anyways, just smooth out the pitting and be done with it. It doesn’t need to go to bare aluminum again. Unlike metal or cast iron, the oxidation layer on aluminum will not progress any further under the paint.

It's not oxidation layer, it's baked on brake dust.

 

[KrisZ]

It's not oxidation layer, it's baked on brake dust.

Then you either need to sand it down or just pain over it, if you’re not looking for super nice and smooth finish.

Even this little bit of oxidation on my Kawasaki’s side cover needed sanding. Don’t be afraid of it, you’re not removing a lot of material.

 

[Faawrenchbndr]

It's not oxidation layer, it's baked on brake dust.

Aluma Brite will clean it up very well. Use a small brush to apply, use a spray bottle with water to remove it. It doesn’t take long.

 

[97prizm]

I have an aluminum caliper that is stripped down and I need go get the baked on beake dust off.
The sand blaster at work is too strong and aggressive.
I used an ultrasonic cleaner and it did a good job but after a certain point it stopped removing the baked on stuff.

Would a 3m roloc green bristle thing be able to clean up this soft aluminum caliper ?

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I highly recommended oil eater. I think Advance Auto still carries it in store. I worked for a guy building and maintaining racecars trackside in the summer. It's one of the few chemicals that he would use on expensive Panasport rims and brake components. I think it's an enzyme of sorts not a caustic cleaner.

 

[shortyb]

If you can find one big enough, a vibratory tumbler and polishing media would take care of that. Or take it to a metal finisher that does powdercoating. They will be able to prep it properly (soda media blast or chemical strip) and give it a nice, durable finish. Otherwise, you're beating yourself silly and working way too hard to get the results you want.

 

[930.engineering]

.
Why even the effort? At 71 € each I'd just get new calipers:

https://www.autodoc.parts/trw/861146

https://www.autodoc.parts/trw/2184205

TRW = OEM (all R55-R59 calipers came from TRW except for JCW on front)
.

 

[shortyb]

.
Why even the effort? At 71 € each I'd just get new calipers:

https://www.autodoc.parts/trw/861146

https://www.autodoc.parts/trw/2184205

TRW = OEM (all R55-R59 calipers came from TRW except for JCW on front)
.

And then there is that .

 

[Rust_Belt_Pete]

.
Why even the effort? At 71 € each I'd just get new calipers:

https://www.autodoc.parts/trw/861146

https://www.autodoc.parts/trw/2184205

TRW = OEM (all R55-R59 calipers came from TRW except for JCW on front)
.

They don't ship to USA and rebuilds that i get in the USA? I'm better if rebuilding.

 

[shortyb]

They don't ship to USA and rebuilds that i get in the USA? I'm better if rebuilding.

Do you have all the parts for rebuilding? Consider the powdercoating route then. Local finisher will do a full set of 4 that are ready to prep (no rubber, plastic, seals etc.) for $50-$75 a caliper depending on finish. Since you are not familiar with aluminum prep/finish, I'd let the pros handle it personally. I've messed up plenty of things thinking that I could handle it.

 

[930.engineering]

.
Just check the common vendors like ECS tuning, Pelican Parts etc..

On a side note: Ate, Brembo, Ferodo and many more use to sell
remanufactured calipers including warranty. Granted, often not
marginally cheaper compared to brand new calipers, but it widens
the choice at least.

https://www.ferodo.com/products/light-vehicles/calipers.html

Personally I decided to pick new corresponding brackets for use
with/to accommodate 280 mm rear rotors instead of 259 mm.
Calipers and pads are the same.
.

 

[Rust_Belt_Pete]

Ooh! I can keep r56 calipers and use bigger rotors ? Do you have a part #?
Also i may actually buy 100 dollar no name caliper set off Amazon for seals gaskets and maybe a piece of internal mechanism. Everything on my calipers is ok with some super minor scuffing from turning the piston in the bore.
Only marginal part is the drum with the internal spring, the stem has some pitting on it.