Cleaning Throttle Body

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So I had experienced in the past and present some hesitation, near stalling. I thought maybe it was spark plugs or pcv valve or bad gas. In the end Belle Tire pulled a code on Throttle body door won't close. Here is some links to pics of the cleaning process. I used Throttle body cleaner I picked up at Autozone. Car is running very good now.

http://images.imagelinky.com/1362101593.jpg

http://images.imagelinky.com/1362101717.jpg

2010 Chrysler 300 with 93000 miles. 1st image is when I gave it one shot of the cleaner. The 2nd shot is the rags used to catch all the runoff when thoroughly cleaning it. What causes this to get so dirty and carbon build up.
 
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Originally Posted By: Kestas
It gets dirty during the heat soak after shutdown, when vapors condense and accumulate.


also the EGR
 
wow
shocked.gif
 
Originally Posted By: antiqueshell
The PCV or EGR valves might need cleaning and or replacement. Check you owner's manual for replacement intervals.


Just change the PCV today. It was good, at least it rattled well.
 
My 06 Scion tC with 105k started idling really badly one day, it turned out to be a really dirty throttle body. I cleaned it with TB cleaner and all is well again. It had serious build up all over the place. I plan to remove the entire intake manifold @120k to clean it completely and install an oil catch
 
i peridically clean the throttle bodies on all my vehicles. i keep a 4 pack of cheap tooth brushes from dollar general in my garage to scrub them clean with, along with some good throttle body cleaner. tooth brushes do wonders for cleaning throttle bodies.

i open the butterfly with my finger and scrup all around the edge with a tooth brush which i spray with the cleaner.

its amazing what a difference it can make in a cars performance.

i used to work on cars on the side, and if someone brought me their car to tune up i always would clean the throttle body too. its throttle response that is noticeable and people are always happy when they get their freshly tuned up car back and it feels a little more crisp.
 
I would consider that normal for a 93K motor..
I used to get the same carbon build up in my Buick's 3.1 engine.
After cleaning it seemed to run so much smoother.
I recently cleaned the TB on my 38K 2.2 ecotec and it also had a good amount of carbon...it also seemed much smoother afterwards.
My (sold)2001 Accords 4 cylinder TB never seemed to carbon up.
I haven't checked my Corolla's but I plan to when the weather gets better.
 
Originally Posted By: Artem
My 06 Scion tC with 105k started idling really badly one day, it turned out to be a really dirty throttle body. I cleaned it with TB cleaner and all is well again. It had serious build up all over the place. I plan to remove the entire intake manifold @120k to clean it completely and install an oil catch


How long do you let TB cleaner evaporate? If I put it back together too soon it causes breathing problems on startup.
 
"What causes this to get so dirty and carbon build up?"

Oil vapors are hosed into the air inlet after the air filter.

"How long do you let TB cleaner evaporate? If I put it back together too soon it causes breathing problems on startup."

That is because too much MAF cleaner was introduced into the TB while the engine was not running and it can even hydro-lock the engine. Crank the engine between small applications so the mixture does not get to rich and let a toothbrush do most of the work. If you want to clean the tract after this with copious amounts of spray do so with the engine running. Then you will see why you cannot add to much to the air/fuel mixture because it will make the engine "breath" roughly. HTH
 
Looking at your rag the PCV = the brown oil, EGR = the black soot. Right when you shut the car off some of the remaining PCV vapor will head in the direction of least resistance - out the air intake, through the TB plates, all the way to the MAF. The EGR gas will do the same thing. EGR is pure evil. If it clogs with carbon and gets stuck open you will be fouled again in a month.

I see a drive by wire electronic throttle body so its really simple to remove and clean thoroughly (although you don't have to, DBW TB's have no IAC valve behind the plates). Removal and cleaning means deposit filled cleaning solvents are not sucked back through the intake and combustion chamber first start. Thats what the engine was choking on. Not the best combustion for a moment till that clears.

If there is an aftermarket EGR plug and delete kit do it and most of that mess will stop.
 
Are you able to clean the electronic throttle bodies? A friend of mine has an Avenger that started to do the same thing.

The "lightning bolt" powertrane light came on and it was by a Pepboys. They replaced the alternator (that lasted about 3 days before dieing itself). We share a mechanic and he diag'd it as the throttle body being crudded up ... sure enough, he was right.

Not sure if he cleaned or replaced
 
When you see the lightning bolt it indicates a TB issue. It can be as simple as some obstruction or it can be a loose connection or it could be an actual fault in the TB or...

Don't know how the alternator got involved, but that sure sounds like bad diagnosis!!!
 
If you dont want to wait for the excess cleaner to evaporate inside the manifold, shoot some compressed air in there past the open throttle plate. It will make the next engine start easier.
 
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What's the best way to do this? Do you have to open the throttle plate and spray it in or leave it closed? Do you have to catch all of the dissolved sludge or can it drip down in the manifold?
 
Originally Posted By: JZiggy
What's the best way to do this? Do you have to open the throttle plate and spray it in or leave it closed? Do you have to catch all of the dissolved sludge or can it drip down in the manifold?


"Crank the engine between small applications so the mixture does not get to rich and let a toothbrush do most of the work. If you want to clean the tract after this with copious amounts of spray do so with the engine running."
 
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