Cleaning the VW 1.8T Questions

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Originally Posted By: lancerplayer

1 bottle of MMO or 1 quart of kerosene/diesel will do the trick? I did a little research and it seems the kerosene/diesel method has been used for some time.

Have you used the method in your original message with success? I just want to clean my engine up a bit, but not run the risk of something catastrophic happening.


Maybe you should just take it to the dealer.
 
I think the safest thing in my situation is the following:

- 1 application of MMO
- Fill with cheap HDEO 15w40
- Fresh filter
- Run for 1,000 miles
- Drain
- Repeat until I get desired results

Any objections?
 
Waste of oil.

Just change the filter @ 1500 miles, cut it open and see what you have. If everything is okay, then change the filter @ 3000 miles more and see what is there.

Bill
 
Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah
Waste of oil.

Just change the filter @ 1500 miles, cut it open and see what you have. If everything is okay, then change the filter @ 3000 miles more and see what is there.

Bill


Bill,

I am going to do a fresh oil change because I do not know how long or what oil the previous owner had in the engine. Do you suggest just aN oil and filter change, drive for 1,000-1,500 miles, cut open the filter and go from there? Or should I add MMO to the current oil, drive for a few miles, drain, then fill with fresh oil and filter? I have done more research and I keep finding more options I could try. However, I value your opinion very much and would like to know what your advice is.
 
FYI I did this on a rebuilt 305 SBC just because I had no idea how it was on the inside.

I ran the one quart of MMO for a full OCI and while thin on the way out it was black and the filter was just as dark. Now in my teen years I attributed it to doing it's job but today being older I'm a little scientific with my cars I'd test it as well and pull the pan to see. Back then I took what was on the bottle as truth.

It did say you could replace one qt of oil with MMO and run
the full OCI.

And personally I'd pull the pan & valve cover to know for sure. I would not use kero, D2, or BioD as I believe using such harsh solvent would do more harm than good.
 
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Originally Posted By: lancerplayer
Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah
Waste of oil.

Just change the filter @ 1500 miles, cut it open and see what you have. If everything is okay, then change the filter @ 3000 miles more and see what is there.

Bill


Bill,

I am going to do a fresh oil change because I do not know how long or what oil the previous owner had in the engine. Do you suggest just aN oil and filter change, drive for 1,000-1,500 miles, cut open the filter and go from there? Or should I add MMO to the current oil, drive for a few miles, drain, then fill with fresh oil and filter? I have done more research and I keep finding more options I could try. However, I value your opinion very much and would like to know what your advice is.


What I'd do (since you have not taken the valve cover off and see what really is going on) is to change the oil (I bought my new to me truck last year and did exactly this) and filter. Run it 1500-2000 miles and change it. Check out the filter and see if anything looks out of place. If everything looks good, follow the recommended OCI and get on with it.

Now, If you find something in the filter, take off the cover and see something, the engine is using tons of oil, or get a used oil analysis that points to something wrong, then start getting aggressive.

Take care, Bill
 
I would run a short OCI of either Pennzoil Platinum or Ultra 5/10W-30 or any weight M1 High Mileage. Keep a close watch on the oil and see if it darkens quickly, then decide if you need to do some more rigorous cleaning...
 
I managed to take a closer look at the engine. I took some pictures and would like you all to take a look. The pictures are not the best, but do give a better view of how the internals look.

I have yet to take the valve cover off, but I think the pictures will give a general idea of how it looks.

dbjzif.jpg


ndsfw0.jpg


What actions should I take? Is this Auto-RX worthy? MMO? Or will flushes take care of this?
 
Auto-RX may or may not remove the deposits. I would just start using the correct VW 502.00 approved oil and not worry about the past.

Also, since it is a 1.8T, I would perform a complete timing belt service ASAP. If the tensioner breaks, the top-end of the engine is ruined.
 
Buy a bottle of the new Amsoil engine flush. Start there, then move to Mobil 1 High Mileage 10w40. If that doesn't clean it, nothing else will w/out taking the engine apart.
 
I'd love to see what Kreen would do. Trav had good results with it, that engine looks like a good test for it. Or MMO, over 2 OCI's.
 
It runs pretty well. Starts right up and pulls hard. It may have an above average ticking noise. I have heard a 1.8T tick louder and another one quieter than mine.

I talked to the previous owner and I am certain it has conventional oil in the engine currently. I want to get that out ASAP and put a quality synthetic in.
 
That has a lot of deposits so you should plan on cutting open the oil filter 2K or 3K miles after running the first oil you put in. I wouldn't run it past 3K no matter what the filter shows since even if there isn't a lot in the filter, there will still be a lot of suspended crud in the oil and there will be an increasing tendency for it to re-deposit in the engine.

It will never look really clean with even the best oils and solvents unless you manually clean it but that's ok except for aesthetics.
 
Originally Posted By: JAG
That has a lot of deposits

Where are you guys seeing all these deposits?

All I'm seeing in his pictures is the black plastic baffle that we were talking about earlier. There's no telling what's underneath it. That's one thing I remember not liking about the 1.8T engine - you can't see squat without removing the valve cover. Then again, my 530i is the same.
frown.gif
 
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