Cleaning the Air Filter
- Thread starter Taresh
- Start date
- Status
Only if you want to increase wear in your engine
This is very common practice in Kuwait, and I absolutely despise it. Air filters are cheap, engines are not. Whilst some manufacturers, such as Nissan and Toyota, have labels in the engine compartment recommending air filter cleaning every 5,000 km or something like that, I do not agree.
An air filter for an average American car is 1.5-2 Dinars ($5.20-$6.89 USD). An air filter for a Japanese or German car is 5-8 Dinars ($17-$27 USD). If you're following 5,000 km oil changes, leave the air filter untouched for the first 2 oil changes and replace it at the third. If you're driving something like a GM truck with a meter, replace it before it gets to the red.
Our air filters trap very fine particles of sand. When you blow compressed air, you loosen these particles/layers, but can never fully get them out due to the way the filter media is manufactured. So some will remain in suspension. When you reinstall the said air filter, some of the remaining particles will become freed at the expense of contaminating your engine oil. Oil and sand particles are not exactly best friends. Don't forget that these particles will also blow through your MAF sensor, contaminating it as well. MAF sensors are very expensive items to replace.
The other thing I have an issue with is compressed air being blown through the filter. Eventually, this will cause filtering ability to diminish.
I run extended drain intervals (15,000 km on average), and replace my air filters at every oil change.
An air filter for an average American car is 1.5-2 Dinars ($5.20-$6.89 USD). An air filter for a Japanese or German car is 5-8 Dinars ($17-$27 USD). If you're following 5,000 km oil changes, leave the air filter untouched for the first 2 oil changes and replace it at the third. If you're driving something like a GM truck with a meter, replace it before it gets to the red.
Our air filters trap very fine particles of sand. When you blow compressed air, you loosen these particles/layers, but can never fully get them out due to the way the filter media is manufactured. So some will remain in suspension. When you reinstall the said air filter, some of the remaining particles will become freed at the expense of contaminating your engine oil. Oil and sand particles are not exactly best friends. Don't forget that these particles will also blow through your MAF sensor, contaminating it as well. MAF sensors are very expensive items to replace.
The other thing I have an issue with is compressed air being blown through the filter. Eventually, this will cause filtering ability to diminish.
I run extended drain intervals (15,000 km on average), and replace my air filters at every oil change.
Just tap it on a hard surface to get the loose stuff off. If you can't see through it then its time to replace.
JHZR2
Staff member
I have in the past removed large dirt sitting on the surface. The thing about filtration is that the media does not do the filtration, the cake that builds up on the media does...
I do this with the lawnmower filter every couple runs because it gets very dirty very quickly and I do not have the desire to buy a new air filter for $8 every 3 weeks or so.
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
I have in the past removed large dirt sitting on the surface. The thing about filtration is that the media does not do the filtration, the cake that builds up on the media does...
O.K.?
I have in the past removed large dirt sitting on the surface. The thing about filtration is that the media does not do the filtration, the cake that builds up on the media does...
O.K.?
Don't use air pressure since it opens the pores and lets the dirt in. Don't tap it as that will either crack the hard glue on some filters letting dirt through or crease the foam gaskets creating a valley for dust to get in.
The mileage or time limits don't do much. You change too late (lack of air) or too early (lack of filtration).
Use the restriction gauge. At the most, inspect every few months, pick off the feathers, and put it back in.
The mileage or time limits don't do much. You change too late (lack of air) or too early (lack of filtration).
Use the restriction gauge. At the most, inspect every few months, pick off the feathers, and put it back in.
I use a shop vac on my lawn mower filter. Most filter designs are the same on both sides. If it's OK to have an intake vacuum on one side, why not clean it with a vacuum on the other?
However on my vehicles, I just change them. I can see why cleaning would be practiced in a very dusty environment.
However on my vehicles, I just change them. I can see why cleaning would be practiced in a very dusty environment.
Originally Posted By: cbear
I use a shop vac on my lawn mower filter. Most filter designs are the same on both sides. If it's OK to have an intake vacuum on one side, why not clean it with a vacuum on the other?
Now why haven't I thought of that? Or heard about it? Brilliant idea, actually! I'll try it on my farm tractor filters. It would even be better if it can be done in situ without breaking the filter seal.
I use a shop vac on my lawn mower filter. Most filter designs are the same on both sides. If it's OK to have an intake vacuum on one side, why not clean it with a vacuum on the other?
Now why haven't I thought of that? Or heard about it? Brilliant idea, actually! I'll try it on my farm tractor filters. It would even be better if it can be done in situ without breaking the filter seal.
I tap the filter lightly on hard surface then use the shop vac with lowest speed setting to vacuum the dirty side of the filter. I clean the air filter when I do oil change.
I want to keep the air-flow through my filter one-way only if I can. I think there is less chance to "bust loose" particles that don't leave the filter, and maybe slip past when flow is reveresed again. ?
Could be [censored] though.
Could be [censored] though.
Originally Posted By: Malo83
Originally Posted By: FZ1
False economy. I'm a toss it and get a new one type of guy.
Amen brutha
Yeah, but would you be if your air filters cost $55 and you'd need to change them twice a year? And the alternative was equal filtration and an air filter once every two years. Which is false economy?
Originally Posted By: FZ1
False economy. I'm a toss it and get a new one type of guy.
Amen brutha
Yeah, but would you be if your air filters cost $55 and you'd need to change them twice a year? And the alternative was equal filtration and an air filter once every two years. Which is false economy?
- Status
