Run the FP in the gas as recommended... it will leave the valves spotless.
Cleaning carbon buildup off intake valves and pistons
- Thread starter Ian Swett
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I'm going to do exactly that. A molasoak and then FP.
Thanks for all your help and I'll update you in a bit.
-Ian
Thanks for all your help and I'll update you in a bit.
-Ian
This problem is directly caused by the oxygenates like ethanol in the re-formulated gas sold in CA.
You need to treat each tank of fuel with 1.5-2.0 ounces of SL-1 or PI to keep this from being a constant problem. Prevention is much more effective than periodic, high dose cleanings ....
I've run PI since 1980 in six different VW/Audi engines and never had a fuel related, driveability issue. This includes my 1990 Audi 100, with 214,900 miles on it.
BTW, the Redline SL-1 and PI smell almost exactly the same. I believe the same type of synthetic amine detergent is used in both ....I'd run whichever is less expensive.
You need to treat each tank of fuel with 1.5-2.0 ounces of SL-1 or PI to keep this from being a constant problem. Prevention is much more effective than periodic, high dose cleanings ....
I've run PI since 1980 in six different VW/Audi engines and never had a fuel related, driveability issue. This includes my 1990 Audi 100, with 214,900 miles on it.
BTW, the Redline SL-1 and PI smell almost exactly the same. I believe the same type of synthetic amine detergent is used in both ....I'd run whichever is less expensive.
Good luck.
Just an update. The car is running pretty well now, but the valves and pistons still aren't what I'd consider clean. Actually, I haven't pulled the plugs since the molasoak, so maybe the pistons are clean now. I'm going to run FP for the rest of this oil change, then do a molasoak right before the oil change.
The first time I did it on level ground, but since my pistons are at a slant, I was thinking I'd put my car up on a single ramp to get better distribution of the LC next time.
Right after I did the molasoak I had some nasty ringing about a minute after starting up the car, like a piston was rattling around inside the cylinder, but it went away in a few seconds, so I have to assume it was the rings reseating or a carbon chunk coming loose and bouncing around?
-Ian
The first time I did it on level ground, but since my pistons are at a slant, I was thinking I'd put my car up on a single ramp to get better distribution of the LC next time.
Right after I did the molasoak I had some nasty ringing about a minute after starting up the car, like a piston was rattling around inside the cylinder, but it went away in a few seconds, so I have to assume it was the rings reseating or a carbon chunk coming loose and bouncing around?
-Ian
Mercury marine makes a carbon removal product that works excellant. I believe its called powertune. You just spray it one and let it sit 24 hours and it removes most of the carbon. Repeating the procedure mulitple times results in bare metal in most cases.
I may try to order some Mercury power tune online. It is probably fairly similar to Mopar CCC, which is also supposed to be very strong.
-Ian
-Ian
No one has discussed the valve seals. I'm not familiar with this engine, but it seems that checking/replacing the seals would be an important step in prevention. On many engines, you can accomplish this fairly easily. That carbon build up is some pretty hard stuff. I just finished a top end rebuild on my Ford 351 after 300,000 miles. It took a wire wheel on a bench grinder to get the carbon build up off. I doubt any cleaner would have done a complete job.
any oil consumption? how are the intake valve seals?
Nope, I've never had an oil consumption problems in the car.
I did buy some powertune, and it does seem to really dissolve the carbon. I used it to clean out the spark plug holes first, and it basically liquifies the stuff. However, I don't think they're supposed to ship it out of state, for hazmat reasons
I just bought a vacuum brake bleeder, and I might try putting some powertune in, letting it sit overnight, and then vacuum it out, and repeat until I get a shiny surface. Of course I would have to change the oil immediately afterwards.
-Ian
I did buy some powertune, and it does seem to really dissolve the carbon. I used it to clean out the spark plug holes first, and it basically liquifies the stuff. However, I don't think they're supposed to ship it out of state, for hazmat reasons
I just bought a vacuum brake bleeder, and I might try putting some powertune in, letting it sit overnight, and then vacuum it out, and repeat until I get a shiny surface. Of course I would have to change the oil immediately afterwards.
-Ian
short distance driving with insufficient engine warm up is an engine killer.
have to work to keep the wife's Honda 2.4L clean and running well, 2 mile commute to bus park& ride. convinced her to take 60 mph freeway instead of 30 mph back roads, a egg on gas pedal driver. Mobil 1 0w20, Techron Concentrate every 2k miles.
add a engine block and oil heater and set at 90d F, helps. even in moderate climates.
cold short distance slow speed driving builds up valve, cc and ring contaminates quickly especially on a FI engine. all injectors leak somewhat even when new, spray pattern is not perfect until warmed up and computer runs rich mixture in cold engine. all add to extra unburned raw fuel setting on back of intake valve after warm engine is turned off. raw liquid fuel slowly boils off the lighter components leaving heavy deposits.
hot engine after extended run and hot intake valves burn off/vaporize any raw fuel after shutoff
have to work to keep the wife's Honda 2.4L clean and running well, 2 mile commute to bus park& ride. convinced her to take 60 mph freeway instead of 30 mph back roads, a egg on gas pedal driver. Mobil 1 0w20, Techron Concentrate every 2k miles.
add a engine block and oil heater and set at 90d F, helps. even in moderate climates.
cold short distance slow speed driving builds up valve, cc and ring contaminates quickly especially on a FI engine. all injectors leak somewhat even when new, spray pattern is not perfect until warmed up and computer runs rich mixture in cold engine. all add to extra unburned raw fuel setting on back of intake valve after warm engine is turned off. raw liquid fuel slowly boils off the lighter components leaving heavy deposits.
hot engine after extended run and hot intake valves burn off/vaporize any raw fuel after shutoff
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