Will a synthetic oil keep a motor cleaner over its life even if you run your conventional oil no longer then say 5,000 miles compared to running a quality synthetic oil for say a 10,000 mile OCI ?
Clean engine ?
- Thread starter Camprunner
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There are no conventional oils in ILSAC form.
It depends a lot on driving conditions, cold starts, short trips, Engine characteristics, etc.
I dare say if you fill your engine with clean oil in Seattle and immediately drive all the way to Miami, then any engine with any oil with only highway miles will probably go 200,000 miles and look as clean inside as any engine run the same time on synthetics.
I think though, over very long periods of time....... a "conventional oil only" WILL have some deposits inside, how much, I can't say. I changed the oil in my 5.0 Explorer engine every 4,000-5,000 miles and used mostly conventional (I always added 1 quart synthetic) and when I tore it down at 183,000 miles it was still VERY clean inside.
I dare say if you fill your engine with clean oil in Seattle and immediately drive all the way to Miami, then any engine with any oil with only highway miles will probably go 200,000 miles and look as clean inside as any engine run the same time on synthetics.
I think though, over very long periods of time....... a "conventional oil only" WILL have some deposits inside, how much, I can't say. I changed the oil in my 5.0 Explorer engine every 4,000-5,000 miles and used mostly conventional (I always added 1 quart synthetic) and when I tore it down at 183,000 miles it was still VERY clean inside.
Depends on brand, depends on conditions. I don't think you can use set numbers.
imho NO. Sludge comes from a poorly designed system and varnish comes from fuel. Ive seen vehicles run on nothing but full sync varnish and vehicles run on nothing but bulk dino so clean you could eat from them.
If you want to keep your engine clean...change your PCV valve before it fails...and of course don't run oil (synthetic or conventional) beyond its useful life.
If you want to keep your engine clean...change your PCV valve before it fails...and of course don't run oil (synthetic or conventional) beyond its useful life.
Originally Posted By: FordCapriDriver
+1 taking a back seat to this one. Excited for the fireworks
+1 taking a back seat to this one. Excited for the fireworks
5k is a good run for a conventional in mixed driving. It will get at least some varnish in a 2000 and beyond engine.
There is no popcorn left so I will go out on a limb and state:
-Oil control rings (all ring grooves in general) would benefit here as the oil cooks here. A synthetic would be my choice.
-Your PCV system will see less volatiles that come solely from the volatiles in the oil, synthetics have a lower NOACK%.
-The oil flow to the valvetrain is much faster with synthetic as an old rule of thumb that is vanishing with "conventional" oils that are probably "synthetic" anyway to meet SN.
-There is a more "robust" ad pack that is generally associate with the quality "Tier" that they fall in above "conventional". So potentially more detergents.
Read up on Pennzoil conventional... Most people think this is just a GTL or enough of it that it is a 6,000 mile "synthetic" based on them using a slightly lesser ad pack so you loose your TBN faster.
And the key I think is this:
TBN retention of Synthetic oil, lower NOACK%, etc etc that would lessen the "dirt" in the engine accumulating.
Stronger film strength, less shearing of the oil...
But I am reaching here.
I don't mind Pennzoil conventional at all, go for whatever you choose it is almost insignificant today AS LONG AS THE OIL MEETS YOUR VEHICLE SPECS IN THE OWNERS MANUAL.
Again, this is a big reach here.
-Oil control rings (all ring grooves in general) would benefit here as the oil cooks here. A synthetic would be my choice.
-Your PCV system will see less volatiles that come solely from the volatiles in the oil, synthetics have a lower NOACK%.
-The oil flow to the valvetrain is much faster with synthetic as an old rule of thumb that is vanishing with "conventional" oils that are probably "synthetic" anyway to meet SN.
-There is a more "robust" ad pack that is generally associate with the quality "Tier" that they fall in above "conventional". So potentially more detergents.
Read up on Pennzoil conventional... Most people think this is just a GTL or enough of it that it is a 6,000 mile "synthetic" based on them using a slightly lesser ad pack so you loose your TBN faster.
And the key I think is this:
TBN retention of Synthetic oil, lower NOACK%, etc etc that would lessen the "dirt" in the engine accumulating.
Stronger film strength, less shearing of the oil...
But I am reaching here.
I don't mind Pennzoil conventional at all, go for whatever you choose it is almost insignificant today AS LONG AS THE OIL MEETS YOUR VEHICLE SPECS IN THE OWNERS MANUAL.
Again, this is a big reach here.
Some conventional oils will keep the same engine cleaner at 5,000+ mile intervals than some synthetics will at 10,000 - depends on the additives. Synthetics are generally good for more miles, but there are some very high quality conventionals out there. More important is, if you aren't inclined to do used oil analysis on different oils with different accumulated mileages, to monitor the inside of the engine for varnish or other deposits and shorten the interval/change oils if anything substantial starts accumulating.
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