I just put my '62 Volvo 544 back on the road after 35 yrs. I experienced rapid wear on new flat tappets using modern 10W30 oil. Not sure what caused it but only affected 4 tappets, both of cyl 1 and both of cyl 3. I replaced the cam and tappets. Would like to find suitable high zinc oil and viscosity for my car. Will drive only in summer, temps of 50 to 95 deg F. No hard driving. Don't need $$$ race oil!
Classic or vintage car oil
- Thread starter kinhunter40
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I use Amsoil Z-Rod in a 10w30 flavour. I have had no issues with either classic car engine as yet.
Each car sees about two thousand miles each year, and I change the oil once per year in both.
I change the oil when the vehicles are going into storage, which right now is getting close.
Each car sees about two thousand miles each year, and I change the oil once per year in both.
I change the oil when the vehicles are going into storage, which right now is getting close.
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Rotella or VR1... I know a few that also use Defy.
How quickly did you see that wear ? Sometimes with new parts there is an initial break in wear or the new parts are of lesser quality than original .
If you have only seen this wear initially since the replacement I would reset to specs and monitor them .
I really can't see modern oil being an issue here , it's not like you are going to be driving it hard .
Owned a 1966 122 myself for many years , fun cars !
If you have only seen this wear initially since the replacement I would reset to specs and monitor them .
I really can't see modern oil being an issue here , it's not like you are going to be driving it hard .
Owned a 1966 122 myself for many years , fun cars !
Is that the B16 or B18 engine? Curious because my family had the B18 in our '62 544. I ended up buying it from my folks about 1973.
For some reason it wiped a cam lobe along the way. We never did find out why, which was frustrating. We were always checking the valve lash to make sure they didn't get too badly out of tolerance.
Maybe some rocker arms are out of adjustment? Just a thought. The HDEO oils like Rotella will do well to protect things. The valve spring pressures aren't high. What was suggested about break-in may be right if you didn't have a good break in lube.
Any pix by some chance?
For some reason it wiped a cam lobe along the way. We never did find out why, which was frustrating. We were always checking the valve lash to make sure they didn't get too badly out of tolerance.
Maybe some rocker arms are out of adjustment? Just a thought. The HDEO oils like Rotella will do well to protect things. The valve spring pressures aren't high. What was suggested about break-in may be right if you didn't have a good break in lube.
Any pix by some chance?
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Most like likely NOT an oil issue.
Sounds like the cam was reground and not properly induction heated-quench hardened. I would not expect >> 250lbs over the nose on that engine.
Sounds like the cam was reground and not properly induction heated-quench hardened. I would not expect >> 250lbs over the nose on that engine.
your failure had nothing to do with modern oils. Here in California there are 100's of thousands of classic cars most of which are NOT owned by overly cautious bitoger types using only special fancy oils. The majority use regular off the shelf oils with probably fram filters! You do not see auto shops filled with classic cars getting new cams.
Originally Posted By: montero1
http://www.hemmings.com/classicoil/
Hmmmm , at a Hemming price too .
OP , lots of good choices with modern oils that will work fine in your engine .
http://www.hemmings.com/classicoil/
Hmmmm , at a Hemming price too .
OP , lots of good choices with modern oils that will work fine in your engine .
Any diesel (HDEO) 5w30 synthetic or cheap 10w30 like Rotella.
Mobil 1 High Mileage 5w30 is another option which has higher ZDDP levels and it's not as heavy as a 10w30.
Mobil 1 High Mileage 5w30 is another option which has higher ZDDP levels and it's not as heavy as a 10w30.
Thanks for all the replies. The car has a B18D engine. I am the original owner. Was retired for 10 years before I decided the restore it. Looks like new. I have photos on my hard drive but couldn't figure out how to post! I agree that it was probably not oil related. I rebuilt the engine a few years back, but only ran the engine once or twice a year so I guess it could have been sticky tappets or something like that. Talked to a Shell rep and will be using Rotela.
Wow! Original 51 years owner.
I finally sold mine in 1974 with 127k on it. It was actually popular when dating
Not many red, shrunken 39 Fords running around.
It wasn't powerful, as you know, but what it had in handling I could use all of...it understeered slightly but would hold the limit smoothly and never put you into the weeds. That was handy on my calibrated interstate on-ramp...and when you're 16.
If you get the pix sorted out, keep us in mind.
I finally sold mine in 1974 with 127k on it. It was actually popular when dating
It wasn't powerful, as you know, but what it had in handling I could use all of...it understeered slightly but would hold the limit smoothly and never put you into the weeds. That was handy on my calibrated interstate on-ramp...and when you're 16.
If you get the pix sorted out, keep us in mind.
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Any diesel (HDEO) 5w30 synthetic or cheap 10w30 like Rotella
One just has to be cautious about something like CJ-4 Mobil Delvac 1 LE 5w30. That's got significantly reduced phosphorous. Of course, it still meets the CJ-4 spec no problem.
Any diesel (HDEO) 5w30 synthetic or cheap 10w30 like Rotella
One just has to be cautious about something like CJ-4 Mobil Delvac 1 LE 5w30. That's got significantly reduced phosphorous. Of course, it still meets the CJ-4 spec no problem.
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