I just bought this Troybuilt snowblower last season and it won't start. It was mid-level model and not the cheapest. I only used it a few times last Winter and even used Stabil. It seemed to run fine and start easy before I stored it away. I go out it today it won't start. I even put fresh gas in it and no dice. It's not even that cold today either. Funny how the other 2 piece of power equipment a lawn mower and a chipper with Briggs engines still starts and so does my 20 year old cheapie Briggs powered lawnmower.
Chonda junk
- Thread starter mechanicx
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Is it a spark or fuel delivery issue?
"Chonda junk"
That's a little harsh wouldn't you think?
I'd be willing to venture that the engine's reluctance to start has more to do with how it was put away rather than who manufactured it.
The float needle is likely stuck from leaving fuel in the carb all summer. Try lightly tapping the carb with a medium sized wrench then try to start it. If that fails, pull the float bowl and see if you can free the float needle.
Does the machine have a primer bulb? Is the bulb flowing fuel to the carb? Have you tried to squirt fuel into the carb or spark plug hole? Just a few things to do before pulling the carb apart.
That's a little harsh wouldn't you think?
I'd be willing to venture that the engine's reluctance to start has more to do with how it was put away rather than who manufactured it.
The float needle is likely stuck from leaving fuel in the carb all summer. Try lightly tapping the carb with a medium sized wrench then try to start it. If that fails, pull the float bowl and see if you can free the float needle.
Does the machine have a primer bulb? Is the bulb flowing fuel to the carb? Have you tried to squirt fuel into the carb or spark plug hole? Just a few things to do before pulling the carb apart.
JTK
$100 Site Donor 2025
Does it attempt to start at all? Is the spark plug wet? If it's one of the 208cc variety, I'd scrap the quality Chonda spark plug with an NGK BPR6ES or Champion RN11YC. I believe those will x-ref. If not, take the plug with you to a small engine shop for a match up.
*edit. Ooops! Wait.. where's the Colonel? Refer to the ENGINE manual only. (kidding!)
Joel
*edit. Ooops! Wait.. where's the Colonel? Refer to the ENGINE manual only. (kidding!)
Joel
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Here you go again with non sense and speculation. Did you not read that the it was stored with Stabil, and that I have Briggs equipment one that is 20 years old and I didn't use Stabil and it has always started fine after being stored. OK now I'm being harsh and you are probably just trying to help but questioning how I stored it and that I called Chonda junk kind of irked me. I know how to repair and diagnosis equipment, and I stand by my saying Chonda is mostly junk.
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I haven't tried diagnosing it yet. It is kind of chilly in the garage and I don't have a helper around now. It does sound to me like the ignition is not firing and I completety agree with your suggestion about the plug. I will have to check and make sure that fuel bowl is not dry or the main nozzle is blocked but I'd doubt that.
JTK
$100 Site Donor 2025
Yep. Carbs and spark plugs are the #1 weak spots.
I just checked it and hooked it up to electric start (that starter is deafening loud). It had spark at the terminal and appeared to be getting fuel. After several cranking episodes it started. Good thing because the carburetor is really buried under covers on this model.
Kind of wierd it always started easily before, maybe chalk it up to cranky Honda carbs. My Honda lawn mower was the only other equipment that acted tempermental like that.
Kind of wierd it always started easily before, maybe chalk it up to cranky Honda carbs. My Honda lawn mower was the only other equipment that acted tempermental like that.
Originally Posted By: mechanicx
Here you go again with non sense and speculation. Did you not read that the it was stored with Stabil, and that I have Briggs equipment one that is 20 years old and I didn't use Stabil and it has always started fine after being stored. OK now I'm being harsh and you are probably just trying to help but questioning how I stored it and that I called Chonda junk kind of irked me. I know how to repair and diagnosis equipment, and I stand by my saying Chonda is mostly junk.
If an engine is in running order when put away, and it has been PROPERLY stored (carb drained), it should be in running order when you take it out of storage.
Have you tried any of the above suggestions? Have you even tested for spark or fuel getting to the carb and/or combustion chamber? Rather than going on the defensive, take the guidance provided and carry on from there.
You put way too much faith in elixirs. Regardless of what you put in the fuel, if the float bowl dries out, there may be opportunity for enough varnish to develop to stick the float needle. As far as I'm concerned, the more additives you've put in the fuel will only add to the build up of deposits when the fuel dries out.
Just because you had no problems with an old B&S engine doesn't support your condemnation of Chonda engines. Chances are that the B&S engine isn't built to the tolerances of newer engines regardless of country of origin.
There's also the possibility that the float and float needle assemblies inside the Chonda carb may be much lighter than that of an old B&S carb. If it is, it might not have the weight to pull the needle from the valve seat if it's stuck with varnish.
Suggest you try the above mentioned checks and recommendations from other regarding the spark plug and get back to us if they don't solve the problem.
Here you go again with non sense and speculation. Did you not read that the it was stored with Stabil, and that I have Briggs equipment one that is 20 years old and I didn't use Stabil and it has always started fine after being stored. OK now I'm being harsh and you are probably just trying to help but questioning how I stored it and that I called Chonda junk kind of irked me. I know how to repair and diagnosis equipment, and I stand by my saying Chonda is mostly junk.
If an engine is in running order when put away, and it has been PROPERLY stored (carb drained), it should be in running order when you take it out of storage.
Have you tried any of the above suggestions? Have you even tested for spark or fuel getting to the carb and/or combustion chamber? Rather than going on the defensive, take the guidance provided and carry on from there.
You put way too much faith in elixirs. Regardless of what you put in the fuel, if the float bowl dries out, there may be opportunity for enough varnish to develop to stick the float needle. As far as I'm concerned, the more additives you've put in the fuel will only add to the build up of deposits when the fuel dries out.
Just because you had no problems with an old B&S engine doesn't support your condemnation of Chonda engines. Chances are that the B&S engine isn't built to the tolerances of newer engines regardless of country of origin.
There's also the possibility that the float and float needle assemblies inside the Chonda carb may be much lighter than that of an old B&S carb. If it is, it might not have the weight to pull the needle from the valve seat if it's stuck with varnish.
Suggest you try the above mentioned checks and recommendations from other regarding the spark plug and get back to us if they don't solve the problem.
Originally Posted By: boraticus
If an engine is in running order when put away, and it has been PROPERLY stored (carb drained), it should be in running order when you take it out of storage.
Have you tried any of the above suggestions? Have you even tested for spark or fuel getting to the carb and/or combustion chamber? Rather than going on the defensive, take the guidance provided and carry on from there.
You put way too much faith in elixirs. Regardless of what you put in the fuel, if the float bowl dries out, there may be opportunity for enough varnish to develop to stick the float needle. As far as I'm concerned, the more additives you've put in the fuel will only add to the build up of deposits when the fuel dries out.
Just because you had no problems with an old B&S engine doesn't support your condemnation of Chonda engines. Chances are that the B&S engine isn't built to the tolerances of newer engines regardless of country of origin.
I put mine away fuel wet and they always start the next season. Al alloy is destroyed when subjected to water plus cork and or paper gaskets will dry out, shrink and leak if not fuel/oil wetted. I ve read problems AND good luck with both dry and wet storage methods so its just a matter of luck I suppose - but having rebuilt many alum carbs that were water oxidised, I prefer wet.
If an engine is in running order when put away, and it has been PROPERLY stored (carb drained), it should be in running order when you take it out of storage.
Have you tried any of the above suggestions? Have you even tested for spark or fuel getting to the carb and/or combustion chamber? Rather than going on the defensive, take the guidance provided and carry on from there.
You put way too much faith in elixirs. Regardless of what you put in the fuel, if the float bowl dries out, there may be opportunity for enough varnish to develop to stick the float needle. As far as I'm concerned, the more additives you've put in the fuel will only add to the build up of deposits when the fuel dries out.
Just because you had no problems with an old B&S engine doesn't support your condemnation of Chonda engines. Chances are that the B&S engine isn't built to the tolerances of newer engines regardless of country of origin.
I put mine away fuel wet and they always start the next season. Al alloy is destroyed when subjected to water plus cork and or paper gaskets will dry out, shrink and leak if not fuel/oil wetted. I ve read problems AND good luck with both dry and wet storage methods so its just a matter of luck I suppose - but having rebuilt many alum carbs that were water oxidised, I prefer wet.
It is running now but my point is of all my equipment I've had it's always the Honda designs that have starting problems even if given better storage treatment. I've heard other people having all sorts of problems with their Chondas and so far the only problem I've had is a tendency to be hard starting. That's still an issue. You can make excuse for Chondas if you want.
I agree, I am of the school of storing them wet, and even without Stabil it hasn't been a problem. I don't have any reason to not believe that Stabil works. But apparently even with Stabil and top tier gas it's not enough for Chonda carbs. Although a snowblower does have it worse that its storage is in the Summer time, but like I said my Honda mower gave problems that my Briggs never did.
It's been my experience that Chondas (i've had several) are 'luck of the draw' in quality and durability. Some will run, and run, and run, and run, etc. Others will last a couple of seasons (with light use), others won't last long at all.
Overall I think the quality of the Chondas is improving, slowly, but improving. Maybe someday their quality and consistency will be up there with the other manufacturers. Until then, we take our chances.
Overall I think the quality of the Chondas is improving, slowly, but improving. Maybe someday their quality and consistency will be up there with the other manufacturers. Until then, we take our chances.
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"I put mine away fuel wet and they always start the next season. Al alloy is destroyed when subjected to water plus cork and or paper gaskets will dry out, shrink and leak if not fuel/oil wetted. I ve read problems AND good luck with both dry and wet storage methods so its just a matter of luck I suppose - but having rebuilt many alum carbs that were water oxidised, I prefer wet."
There is a flaw with your above theory. Particularly the following excerpt:
"plus cork and or paper gaskets will dry out, shrink and leak if not fuel/oil wetted."
If that was correct, then why are new engines shipped and stored dry for months, if not years at a time?
If an engine is put away with fuel in it, the fuel valve must be left open to keep a constant supply of fuel to the carb. That will work as long as fuel isn't interrupted. If fuel ceases to be available to the carb, for whatever reasons, the fuel in the carb will dry out and potentially cause problems. Storing the carb dry eliminates that possibility.
Another problem with storing an engine with an active fuel supply to the carb is flooding the crankcase with fuel if the carb float needle fails to close. This is a very real possibility with fuel valves that are not vacuum controlled as in the case of most OPE.
There is a flaw with your above theory. Particularly the following excerpt:
"plus cork and or paper gaskets will dry out, shrink and leak if not fuel/oil wetted."
If that was correct, then why are new engines shipped and stored dry for months, if not years at a time?
If an engine is put away with fuel in it, the fuel valve must be left open to keep a constant supply of fuel to the carb. That will work as long as fuel isn't interrupted. If fuel ceases to be available to the carb, for whatever reasons, the fuel in the carb will dry out and potentially cause problems. Storing the carb dry eliminates that possibility.
Another problem with storing an engine with an active fuel supply to the carb is flooding the crankcase with fuel if the carb float needle fails to close. This is a very real possibility with fuel valves that are not vacuum controlled as in the case of most OPE.
Take the cheapie spark plug that came with your Chonda and throw it in the garbage, get an NGK. The cheapo plugs they come with fowl easily and cause all kinds of problems.
Even with Stabil, the newer gas with ethanol is causing problems with carburetors of all makes and models. The best method is use the Stabil but start the engine at least once a month to keep things flowing.
Even with Stabil, the newer gas with ethanol is causing problems with carburetors of all makes and models. The best method is use the Stabil but start the engine at least once a month to keep things flowing.
No more Troybuilt for me.
I once bought a Troybuilt backpack blower. I went to go start it once and when I pulled the rope, the entire rewind mechanism broke out of the housing.
At the time, the housing with rewind thing molded in wasn't available for a replacement part. Its not Troybuilt anymore
I once bought a Troybuilt backpack blower. I went to go start it once and when I pulled the rope, the entire rewind mechanism broke out of the housing.
At the time, the housing with rewind thing molded in wasn't available for a replacement part. Its not Troybuilt anymore
Originally Posted By: cronk
Take the cheapie spark plug that came with your Chonda and throw it in the garbage, get an NGK. The cheapo plugs they come with fowl easily and cause all kinds of problems.
Even with Stabil, the newer gas with ethanol is causing problems with carburetors of all makes and models. The best method is use the Stabil but start the engine at least once a month to keep things flowing.
I didn't take the plug out yet since I got it started after a lot of cranking with the electric start, but I would not be surprised that the China plug was fouled. The engine has a primer and a choke and I think it was getting fuel but was not firing what so ever.
Take the cheapie spark plug that came with your Chonda and throw it in the garbage, get an NGK. The cheapo plugs they come with fowl easily and cause all kinds of problems.
Even with Stabil, the newer gas with ethanol is causing problems with carburetors of all makes and models. The best method is use the Stabil but start the engine at least once a month to keep things flowing.
I didn't take the plug out yet since I got it started after a lot of cranking with the electric start, but I would not be surprised that the China plug was fouled. The engine has a primer and a choke and I think it was getting fuel but was not firing what so ever.
Originally Posted By: Errtt
No more Troybuilt for me.
I once bought a Troybuilt backpack blower. I went to go start it once and when I pulled the rope, the entire rewind mechanism broke out of the housing.
At the time, the housing with rewind thing molded in wasn't available for a replacement part. Its not Troybuilt anymore
I agree but it seems like unless you pay big bucks everything is Chonda and made either by Troybuilt or built similar.
No more Troybuilt for me.
I once bought a Troybuilt backpack blower. I went to go start it once and when I pulled the rope, the entire rewind mechanism broke out of the housing.
At the time, the housing with rewind thing molded in wasn't available for a replacement part. Its not Troybuilt anymore
I agree but it seems like unless you pay big bucks everything is Chonda and made either by Troybuilt or built similar.
Originally Posted By: mechanicx
Originally Posted By: Errtt
No more Troybuilt for me.
I once bought a Troybuilt backpack blower. I went to go start it once and when I pulled the rope, the entire rewind mechanism broke out of the housing.
At the time, the housing with rewind thing molded in wasn't available for a replacement part. Its not Troybuilt anymore
I agree but it seems like unless you pay big bucks everything is Chonda and made either by Troybuilt or built similar.
Originally Posted By: cronk
Take the cheapie spark plug that came with your Chonda and throw it in the garbage, get an NGK. The cheapo plugs they come with fowl easily and cause all kinds of problems.
Even with Stabil, the newer gas with ethanol is causing problems with carburetors of all makes and models. The best method is use the Stabil but start the engine at least once a month to keep things flowing.
I have bought 2 chonda portable generators,,,what I have learned,,,,yes ,put in a new plug, i donot use the oil they recommend,I do go up one grade, i put 2cycleoil with tcw3 in the gas or mmo, doesn't matter and I hve no engine problems, no oil usage and starts on first pull. My generator is mounted on the outside of my van, gets wind rain snow and all that stuff . I do change the oil once a month, i use whats in my van, t6 5w40 and a tablespoon of MMO in the oil. Well it works for me,,ran for 3 and 4 days at least 12 hr day or more at a time. got it at harbor frt. 2200watts.
Originally Posted By: Errtt
No more Troybuilt for me.
I once bought a Troybuilt backpack blower. I went to go start it once and when I pulled the rope, the entire rewind mechanism broke out of the housing.
At the time, the housing with rewind thing molded in wasn't available for a replacement part. Its not Troybuilt anymore
I agree but it seems like unless you pay big bucks everything is Chonda and made either by Troybuilt or built similar.
Originally Posted By: cronk
Take the cheapie spark plug that came with your Chonda and throw it in the garbage, get an NGK. The cheapo plugs they come with fowl easily and cause all kinds of problems.
Even with Stabil, the newer gas with ethanol is causing problems with carburetors of all makes and models. The best method is use the Stabil but start the engine at least once a month to keep things flowing.
I have bought 2 chonda portable generators,,,what I have learned,,,,yes ,put in a new plug, i donot use the oil they recommend,I do go up one grade, i put 2cycleoil with tcw3 in the gas or mmo, doesn't matter and I hve no engine problems, no oil usage and starts on first pull. My generator is mounted on the outside of my van, gets wind rain snow and all that stuff . I do change the oil once a month, i use whats in my van, t6 5w40 and a tablespoon of MMO in the oil. Well it works for me,,ran for 3 and 4 days at least 12 hr day or more at a time. got it at harbor frt. 2200watts.
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