Chlorinated Parrafins? Engine Damage? (Motorkote Hyper Lubricant)

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Aug 25, 2018
Messages
2,185
Location
South Carolina
It isn’t going to damage your engine. I’ve used it before with no issues. If it was going to damage your engine most likely by now it would be off the market due to so many lawsuits and such. Hopefully you haven’t recycled that perfectly good oil.

There's a lot of products on the market that are absolutely terrible that continue to set sales records every year. The oil supplement market is no exception. They are constantly dodging the Federal Trade Commission over false claims hence why so many keep the marketing nonsense as vague as possible so they can't substantiate the claims. The companies invest a lot of money into marketing to beat around the bush as much as possible. Many of them have been caught, pay their fines, and then re-release the same product with slightly more vague labeling. Zmax, STP, Slick 50, Duralube, etc... they've all been busted at one point or another.

Also, there's no application where any of them are actually beneficial. They're a solution looking for a problem. There's nothing in any of them that will provide any benefits over the base oils and additives already used in modern API oils. If a certain oil is inadequate to your needs, then you need to use a better oil, not a supplement.

Take this for example.... I could fill up a bottle with tap water and slap a label on it calling it a mild solvent that'll remove light dirt spots and stains. It could say it's safe to add to any common degreaser and will not harm your hands, your floor, or clothing. You could market it as a solvent that's safe if consumed and no need to keep it out of children's reach. Guess what? It's 100% factual... it's bamboozling bull****... but it's factual.
 
Last edited:
Joined
Dec 4, 2019
Messages
414
Location
Australia
I guess I’ll flush it just to be safe, what product would you recommend?

Should I drive the truck for a little while on the oil I just put in it (fresh oil and filter without motorkote) first before I use a flush since I’ll have to immediately drain out all of the new oil again after adding the flush and allowing it to work at idle for 10-15 minutes...
Yep, you should be right to drive it for a short OCI then use the flush with the oil that's in it now. Can you get the liqui moly pro flush where you are or any well known brand engine/oil flush if you can't. Do not drive with flush in, just idle for 15 minutes and long drain. Its good insurance you have it all out then.
 

Phoenix2019

Thread starter
Joined
Mar 27, 2021
Messages
11
Yep, you should be right to drive it for a short OCI then use the flush with the oil that's in it now. Can you get the liqui moly pro flush where you are or any well known brand engine/oil flush if you can't. Do not drive with flush in, just idle for 15 minutes and long drain. Its good insurance you have it all out then.
Thanks, I think I can get liqui-moly pro flush locally or off of Amazon Prime relatively quickly.

How short of an OCI should I consider? 100, 1000, 2000 miles? I’d rather go ahead and flush it out with little to no driving if it isn’t needed.
Maybe just run a short oil change interval this time around?
 
Joined
Jul 12, 2012
Messages
3,792
Location
Caldwell Idaho
Just flush it with pro strength engine flush if you concerned. Those specific additives are not worth using unless you going to sell the car 😜
Probably the flush is more damaginf. People ask if Redline oil damages engines because they read some article.
 
Joined
Dec 4, 2019
Messages
414
Location
Australia
Probably the flush is more damaginf. People ask if Redline oil damages engines because they read some article.
I don't think so. I think we can move on from brand name engine flushes being damaging in a car with a good history of oil changes. In Australia 1000's of flushes are used every day in the industry and it is probably that way around the world as well. We aren't using ATF and Diesel as flush agents in engines anymore.

Go a 1000 or so @Phoenix2019 it will be fine.
 

Phoenix2019

Thread starter
Joined
Mar 27, 2021
Messages
11
I’m having some doubts using an engine oil flush, I’ve always heard horror stories about them from people that get them done at quick lube to places (probably why), my vehicle only has 50,000 miles on it right now though and has never seen an OCI longer than 3,000 miles, I tried Motorkote hoping it would make the valvetrain / lifters a bit quieter.

I’m thinking I could achieve basically the same result as a flush but safer by just changing out the oil again? I’m almost certain there’s no sludge in it at all.

What are your thoughts?
 
Joined
Dec 26, 2005
Messages
19,224
Location
Upper Midwest
I’m having some doubts using an engine oil flush, I’ve always heard horror stories about them from people that get them done at quick lube to places (probably why), my vehicle only has 50,000 miles on it right now though and has never seen an OCI longer than 3,000 miles, I tried Motorkote hoping it would make the valvetrain / lifters a bit quieter.

I’m thinking I could achieve basically the same result as a flush but safer by just changing out the oil again? I’m almost certain there’s no sludge in it at all.

What are your thoughts?
My thoughts are that this has been a pointless exercise then since now it appears one was never needed in the first place. Why did you add the flush?

Were you having a problem with loud lifters?
 

Phoenix2019

Thread starter
Joined
Mar 27, 2021
Messages
11
My thoughts are that this has been a pointless exercise then since now it appears one was never needed in the first place. Why did you add the flush?

Were you having a problem with loud lifters?
I used motorkote as mentioned in the first post which started this thread but drained it out shortly thereafter and replaced the oil and filter again, the lifters aren’t loud per say just more chatter than I’d consider acceptable when cold however not loud enough to say there’s a problem with them, I haven’t used flush yet as someone suggested to completely remove the remnants of motorkote. My question now is whether it’s worth the cost, risk and time to do a engine flush since I’ve already removed the oil and filter with motorkote.
 
Joined
Aug 7, 2020
Messages
983
If I had something in my engine oil that I wanted to be rid of, I'd do a couple-three oil and filter changes over a short period. I'd not use a flush as that's just adding more junk to the system that needs to ultimately be removed.

Remember, too, that even though you drain the oil and change the filter, many engines leave a substantial amount of residual oil in the block. For example, my Camry leaves about a quart, some Porsche engines more than three quarts. So, if you use a flush, you still have to do another drain and fill or two. You might want to find out how much residual oil is left in your engine after draining.

I have no idea about the product you added to your oil ... whether or not it's harmful to the engine in any way. I'm just suggesting a way to remove as much of it as possible, safely.
 
Joined
Dec 26, 2005
Messages
19,224
Location
Upper Midwest
I used motorkote as mentioned in the first post which started this thread but drained it out shortly thereafter and replaced the oil and filter again, the lifters aren’t loud per say just more chatter than I’d consider acceptable when cold however not loud enough to say there’s a problem with them, I haven’t used flush yet as someone suggested to completely remove the remnants of motorkote. My question now is whether it’s worth the cost, risk and time to do a engine flush since I’ve already removed the oil and filter with motorkote.
No flush is going to remove a specific component from an additive that you put in the oil. Changing the oil will get rid of it, however. Change the oil again if you’re worried it’s still lurking in your engine. Change it twice. Change it three times. Use cheap oil for these changes. It will be gone.
 
Joined
Mar 4, 2017
Messages
18,951
Location
...
No flush is going to remove a specific component from an additive that you put in the oil. Changing the oil will get rid of it, however. Change the oil again if you’re worried it’s still lurking in your engine. Change it twice. Change it three times. Use cheap oil for these changes. It will be gone.


Dittos.
 

Phoenix2019

Thread starter
Joined
Mar 27, 2021
Messages
11
If I had something in my engine oil that I wanted to be rid of, I'd do a couple-three oil and filter changes over a short period. I'd not use a flush as that's just adding more junk to the system that needs to ultimately be removed.

Remember, too, that even though you drain the oil and change the filter, many engines leave a substantial amount of residual oil in the block. For example, my Camry leaves about a quart, some Porsche engines more than three quarts. So, if you use a flush, you still have to do another drain and fill or two. You might want to find out how much residual oil is left in your engine after draining.

I have no idea about the product you added to your oil ... whether or not it's harmful to the engine in any way. I'm just suggesting a way to remove as much of it as possible, safely.
Thank you! I honestly prefer going that route, I don’t like introducing anything that’s not oil into the crankcase, flush is like water.

Molykote Hyper Lubricant as far as I could tell is 100% petroleum based oil but the fact it’s manufactured out of Medium or Long Chain Chlorinated Parrafins that bothered me enough to drain it out.

As far as I can tell there’s maybe a most a 1/2-3/4qt of residual oil that doesn’t drain out of the pan which to me with another oil change that should definitely dilute whatever Motorkote is leftover.
 
Joined
Aug 7, 2020
Messages
983
As far as I can tell there’s maybe a most a 1/2-3/4qt of residual oil that doesn’t drain out of the pan which to me with another oil change that should definitely dilute whatever Motorkote is leftover.
Picking up bits of information over the past year or so, it seems that the dry fill on the 5.7 engine is as much as 2 quarts above the service fill. Not being a Mopar owner, I haven't followed up or dug deeper into the matter. Just passing this along to give you a heads-up to perhaps look further into the matter if it interests you or is important to you.
 

Phoenix2019

Thread starter
Joined
Mar 27, 2021
Messages
11
Picking up bits of information over the past year or so, it seems that the dry fill on the 5.7 engine is as much as 2 quarts above the service fill. Not being a Mopar owner, I haven't followed up or dug deeper into the matter. Just passing this along to give you a heads-up to perhaps look further into the matter if it interests you or is important to you.
Interesting, I’m little bit more curious now, I may measure how much oil actually comes out during my next oil change, I’ll probably use a couple empty 5qt oil contains to measure, 2 quarts seems like a lot of leftover, I may park it on ramps too to see if that makes a difference as well.

I may be looking at it the wrong way but judging by the shape of the oil pan by comparison to where the oil drains out it seems like it would be darn near empty after allowing it drain until a slow drip.
 

MolaKule

Staff member
Joined
Jun 5, 2002
Messages
22,362
Location
Iowegia - USA
Hello, new to the forum, need assistance / advice.

I mistakenly decided to try Motorkote Hyper Lubricant in my engine (5.7 Hemi V8) yesterday, I added 14ozs of it to 6.5qts of fresh 5w20 Pennzoil conventional oil.

After reading a little bit online I learned that Motorkote contains Chlorinated Parrafins which eventually can corrode and subsequently damage internal parts of the engine whenever
they come into contact with moisture long enough. (The lubricate reacts with moisture and forms hydrochloric acid)

I decided to drop the the oil and filter again today after less than a day of having it in my engine (~15 miles of driving) due to concerns of causing irreversible wear. I didn’t notice anything strange with the oil that drained out.

Is there anything else I should do in order to make sure I flush all of it out like change the oil again in a week and / or use some sort of product or flush to neutralize it or is the damage already done?

Thank you!
Mike
I think you have diluted it to the point where it will have little harmful effect, although I would do another OC and filter change for good measure.

Putting in these aftermarket additives without knowing the chemical makeup of what is in them is like walking blindfold on the Santa Monica Pier.
 
Joined
Nov 30, 2004
Messages
2,565
Location
SD
^^^Agreed...you drained the majority of the additive out, and the little bit left is well diluted. Drive on and don’t worry.
 
Joined
Aug 7, 2020
Messages
983
Interesting, I’m little bit more curious now, I may measure how much oil actually comes out during my next oil change, I’ll probably use a couple empty 5qt oil contains to measure, 2 quarts seems like a lot of leftover, I may park it on ramps too to see if that makes a difference as well.

I may be looking at it the wrong way but judging by the shape of the oil pan by comparison to where the oil drains out it seems like it would be darn near empty after allowing it drain until a slow drip.
The residual oil is not in the pan, it is within the passageways in the block, up in the valve train, in whatever coolers there may be, etc. It cannot be drained. It's often referred to as the "dry fill." which is the amount of oil needed to fill a newly built engine or one that is completely dry.

When you drain the engine for an oil change, it is called a "service fill," I suppose because you're servicing the engine.

The difference between the dry fill and the service fill is what remains in the engine after draining the oil.

You may have to access a service manual to get the numbers, or some online source that gives complete specs for the engine. You could also go to a Mopar forum and ask over there. https://moparforums.com/forums/
 

Phoenix2019

Thread starter
Joined
Mar 27, 2021
Messages
11
Thank you everyone for the responses, ideas and suggestions! This is a fantastic forum! I think I have a good idea of what I need to do now to safely remedy this issue, thanks again!
 
Joined
Dec 4, 2019
Messages
414
Location
Australia
The residual oil is not in the pan, it is within the passageways in the block, up in the valve train, in whatever coolers there may be, etc. It cannot be drained. It's often referred to as the "dry fill." which is the amount of oil needed to fill a newly built engine or one that is completely dry.

When you drain the engine for an oil change, it is called a "service fill," I suppose because you're servicing the engine.

The difference between the dry fill and the service fill is what remains in the engine after draining the oil.

You may have to access a service manual to get the numbers, or some online source that gives complete specs for the engine. You could also go to a Mopar forum and ask over there. https://moparforums.com/forums/
You are thinking about transmissions not engines. The only difference is with new oil filter or without. Seems strange the OP is willing to pour in unknown chemicals and then be scared off by an industry standard oil flush product. These products are used everyday in the industry I worked in it. To suggest their is a substantial amount of oil in an average car still in the engine after drain is a load of hogwash and a myth.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top