Chev 6.0L - first oil change?

[johnydep]

Hi all, probably been done before but I can't find anything in the Search.

I purchased a new GM SS 6.0L, I've been running it in with some decent driving - up hills, highway, etc. So far its only done 850 km (500 odd miles), the oil is clean but I'm wanting to drain it and put some quality synthetic in.

Any recommendations? Should I drain and refill now or wait a bit longer.

My refill choice is either Valvoline SYNPOWER DX-1 5w30, or Mobil 1 5w30 dexos.

I drive my cars hard. Previous new car was a Ford, I changed the engine oil at 3000km and the drive train oils at 20,000km. Still driving it now with 135,000km - no oil usage and no leaks.

 

[jimbrewer]

Follow the manual, at least for the first change. No reason why you shouldn't be able to do at least 5,000 mile oil changes, 7,000 with synthetic. Almost certainly more.

 

[johnydep]

Originally Posted By: jimbrewer
Follow the manual, at least for the first change. No reason why you shouldn't be able to do at least 5,000 mile oil changes, 7,000 with synthetic. Almost certainly more.


The manual recommends 12500km for all engine oil changes, including the first. I feel that that's too long for the first oil change, when an engine has been running in.

To clarify my first post - the 3000km & 20,000km engine and auto trans service were the first oil change. After that I roughly followed the manufacturers recommendation (I changed a bit earlier).

 

[901Memphis]

Change it out early if you want. 3,000 km is good for a first change then another one at 5,000 km more.

 

[SteveSRT8]

While one might have a "feel" for a different regimen there is no real benefit to early changes in a new engine these days.

We just sold an 04 6.0 in a 3500 savana with a half a million miles on it! The oil was changed only at the OLM's request from new.

It is still working in Michigan today...

 

[Ducman]

I changed my VZ GTO oil at approximately 1000 k's for the first oil change and the used oil analysis showed 44 PPM of Iron, with not much of anything else to note.
Except Copper, which was the stand out contaminant with 217 PPM.
It was changed again at the next scheduled service 6 months later with 4364 k's on the oil. The corresponding used oil analysis showed 35 PPM of Iron, with not much of anything else. Copper dropped to 158 PPM.

You will note the down-trend of Copper. This continued until the car had done about 10,000 k's, and stabilized to an average of about 56 PPM/2000 k's and remains consistently so to this day.
The Iron also trended down and stabilized to an average of about 10 PPM/2000 k's at around the same k's.
Any other wear metal contaminates are virtually insignificant.

You can make your own mind up from the above information as to when it's best to change your oil.
These current GM engines are not hard on oil.(at all)
They don't produce much iron, but it's copper that's the big one to watch out for. Fortunately Copper is not a problem anyway, and my past experience with these engines indicates that the Copper is from the Cam bearings.(No big deal)

The Mobil 1 would be a good choice, and it's a well proven oil.
And normal OCI's should be fine.
I personally like to drop all the oils(engine, transmission, diff) early at about 1000 k's in all of my vehicles. So I would wait another 150 k's or so.
Then after that at normal OCI's for simplicity.

If you're OCD, then it makes sense to halve the OCI over a time/kms base which ever comes first after the first change. IMO.
I do this on my Motorcycles.

Are you going to change the oil in the Diff?
That would be interesting as they're supposed to be filled for life.
Same as the Transmission I think?

 

[barkingspider]

Ur choice of oils are just fine. I would use the OLM

 

[Danno]

If it were my car, and given hard driving I would change it at 2,500 kms and then every 7,500 kms (or sooner if OLM triggers a change).
For me, it is cheap peace of mind.

 

[SteveSRT8]

Originally Posted By: Ducman

Except Copper, which was the stand out contaminant with 217 PPM.

They don't produce much iron, but it's copper that's the big one to watch out for. Fortunately Copper is not a problem anyway, and my past experience with these engines indicates that the Copper is from the Cam bearings.(No big deal)


GM V8's throw copper, no offense but it is not from the cam bearings.

Do consider that the modern slushbox will generate the lion's share of it's contaminants before 15-20k miles, so there's an early change that may matter a bit.

We run a whole fleet of 6.0's, and a bunch of 5.3's as well. They will run far longer than you want to keep them just following the OLM...

 

[johnydep]

Originally Posted By: Ducman
.....

Are you going to change the oil in the Diff?
That would be interesting as they're supposed to be filled for life.
Same as the Transmission I think?


Thanks for the info. Yes, I will be changing the trans and diff oils. I read somewhere once that 'filled for life' is about 5 years.

My previous vehicle had a "filled for life" differential, 10 years on its still going strong where others have failed. I also changed the transfer case oil, also a 'filled for life' and found on the first drain high metal wear.

Oil analysis -
image

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