My twin cam electraglide has always had harley oil and filter changes, some syn3 and some conventional 20w50. This time I got a Napa gold black filter and 4 qts of pennnzoil 20w50 in the yellow bottle. I figured it did so well in my wifes car, why not give it a shot. The whole deal cost me 12-13 bucks. This should work ok for 3k changes when harley says there dino can go 5k. Should I go 5k or change it at 3. Is anyone else using Pennzoil in a bike. I know Dan has had great UOA with havoline.
Cheaper oil changes.
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I was thinking of going the same route on my 1990 Honda CBR 600F1. My plan was to purchase any auto parts store brand filter such as purolater or supertech, then run some name brand conventional 20w50 such as Pennzoil, Castrol GTX, or Supertech. Everyone always insists on motorycle oil but I think as long as you run a reasonable OCI such as 2000-3000 miles, any good ol' 20W-50 could cut it. BUT then again i just got a coupon from the Honda dealer for $10 of any purchase over $25 and their Amsoil MCF10W-40 is $9.00 so it sort of seems tempting.
I ran Exxon Superflo 20W50 in my 2002 ninja zx9r with no problems, my used oil analysis is posted. I would like to try Mobil 1 V twin 20/50 but is expensive. Shell rotella 15w40 is an excellent oil to run for 3-5K intervals and is just under $9 for a gallon (4 quarts)
Are the sumps really that large in these bikes that we quibble over a quart or two of really heavily additized motorcycle specific oil vs. the $2 quart special on the endcap of Wal-Mart?
Seems to me that running a very high quality oil is cheaper insurance than running the risk of the "special oil" not being up to snuff, and risking an engine rebuild, or worse yet...replacement.
Seems to me that running a very high quality oil is cheaper insurance than running the risk of the "special oil" not being up to snuff, and risking an engine rebuild, or worse yet...replacement.
Well when the cheap $2.00 Walmart is performing as well as the heavily additized motorcycle specific oil, then you start to wonder why your spending so much when going the cheap route yields the same results.
True... and we've got tons of VOA's and used oil analysis here which show us, unequivocally, that the PCMO's are as good if not better than the motorcycle specific oils.
The Group II and III dinos in 20W50 work great in motorcycles which call for 20W50.
It may happen some day, but to date it has not happened: No one has posted any motorcycle UOA for a Harley Davidson (or any other make of bike for that matter) which compares to the Havoline 20W50 car oil used oil analysis I've posted here for my Harley.
So let me turn the question around: Does it make sense to purchase a motorcycle specific oil at any price, let alone the exorbitant prices charged for Amsoil, Mobil 1, Redline, etc., ... when they actually might cause an engine failure due to higher levels of metal wear?
Rhetorical question... yes...
But the facts are the facts. Wear metal counts tell you what's really going on with the engine/oil relationship. Too many folks get all googlie eyed over shear stability and TBNs and psycho-babble. That's abjectly retarded. Look to see how quickly the metal shavings are accumulating... that'll tell the tale.
So to all, I say use the brain YHWH gave you. (Because in spite of what you may have heard, this ain't rocket science)...
And Matt, I think you're doing the right think. That Pennzoil will make the Harley Citgo stuff look like bacon fat by comparison.
Dan
The Group II and III dinos in 20W50 work great in motorcycles which call for 20W50.
It may happen some day, but to date it has not happened: No one has posted any motorcycle UOA for a Harley Davidson (or any other make of bike for that matter) which compares to the Havoline 20W50 car oil used oil analysis I've posted here for my Harley.
So let me turn the question around: Does it make sense to purchase a motorcycle specific oil at any price, let alone the exorbitant prices charged for Amsoil, Mobil 1, Redline, etc., ... when they actually might cause an engine failure due to higher levels of metal wear?
Rhetorical question... yes...
But the facts are the facts. Wear metal counts tell you what's really going on with the engine/oil relationship. Too many folks get all googlie eyed over shear stability and TBNs and psycho-babble. That's abjectly retarded. Look to see how quickly the metal shavings are accumulating... that'll tell the tale.
So to all, I say use the brain YHWH gave you. (Because in spite of what you may have heard, this ain't rocket science)...
And Matt, I think you're doing the right think. That Pennzoil will make the Harley Citgo stuff look like bacon fat by comparison.
Dan
Well, I guess I'm just letting my boutique ways show through, but that is a good point fuel tanker man.
Thanks for the kudos, but there are several here that won't let what I've said go unchallenged (unless they just don't see it).
I should clarify that I do believe that the higher end group IV and V oils can do a fine job in protecting motorcycle engines, it's just that I don't think they can do it better than a good group III conventional oil. That's my opinion, of course, but I base it on the wear metal numbers we find in the used oil analysis on file here.
Dan
I should clarify that I do believe that the higher end group IV and V oils can do a fine job in protecting motorcycle engines, it's just that I don't think they can do it better than a good group III conventional oil. That's my opinion, of course, but I base it on the wear metal numbers we find in the used oil analysis on file here.
Dan
You're not suggesting that Amsoil, or Mobil 1, or Redline will inherently cause higher metal wear, are you? Put another way, other than the price, you'd be okay with Amsoil or Redline provided it was changed when the overall quality of the oil had degraded, based on an analysis of the oil?
I suspect you're saying that those oils, if run for an excessive period with analysis to know the true state of the oil's condition may result in problems because of a buildup of normal wear metals. That would mean, if I'm reading this correctly, that you're more of a "use decent oil and change it frequently" guy than a "buy super-premium and run it a long time" type.
Am I understanding correctly?
i think he was speaking of Dino to Dino.
I clarified in my last post. I actually am saying that wear metal mitigation seems better with dinos (on average)... but it's still good enough with a group IV or V syn that the engine should still last quite a long time.
Basically, you just come to a point where you must ask yourself why you're buying the syn.
Dan
Basically, you just come to a point where you must ask yourself why you're buying the syn.
Dan
Quote:
Basically, you just come to a point where you must ask yourself why you're buying the syn.
Dan
Most people I know change their oils once a year on their motorcycle, ATV, PWC, etc. So, synthetic is an insurance over the dino if you happen to abuse your ride and still change oil once a year.
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