I can't WAIT to get the CTEK on this thing!
And yes, the 12.5V was when it was cold out.
And yes, the 12.5V was when it was cold out.
Charging up an old battery?
- Thread starter GearheadTool
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OK! I just ALSO bought a Schumacher 20/10/3A charge unit from Walmart, and put it on there (soon after the car was shut off.) This one had a digital display!
The indications are that it is at 86% full, and is on 3A slow charge at the moment. Soooo... I know eljefino said that "it is still absorbing the surface charge." However, I seem to recall that slow charging is best. I have three hours to leave it to charge at 3A. This is good for the battery, right?
The indications are that it is at 86% full, and is on 3A slow charge at the moment. Soooo... I know eljefino said that "it is still absorbing the surface charge." However, I seem to recall that slow charging is best. I have three hours to leave it to charge at 3A. This is good for the battery, right?
JHZR2
Staff member
Id give it some more rapid charge, just for a bit, which can sometimes be good for the lead phases. Routinely go slow, but occasional fast charge has been beneficial if you read the literature where real analytical studies of Pb-acid batteries have been done. 1.5C (1.5x the Ah rate of your battery) rate comes to mind from a Journal of Power Sources article from 2006 that actually studied plate morphology and water losses. 20A isnt going to be high enough, but it is the same principle, so Id give that a shot for 5-10 minutes, then go back to a normal regimen.
At 86%, its not absorbing a surface charge, the actual lead hasnt distributed fully yet. The overpotential is still driving the reactive metal.
At 86%, its not absorbing a surface charge, the actual lead hasnt distributed fully yet. The overpotential is still driving the reactive metal.
I let the battery sit for a half hour or so. I measured it with the voltmeter, and it said 12.93V - up from 12.5. It is also warmer out today (50 degrees and really nice.)
I just hooked up the digital charger again on its 3A slow charge, and it started out at 78% and is quickly up to 88% and climbing.. will likely be in the 90s by the time I even hit "send" on here.
Should I crank it up to 10 or 20 amp every now and then? Plus, the CTEK is still coming! (Desulfate mode?)
I also replaced the ABS module today. Will have Advance read the codes, and attempt to clear. We will see...
I just hooked up the digital charger again on its 3A slow charge, and it started out at 78% and is quickly up to 88% and climbing.. will likely be in the 90s by the time I even hit "send" on here.
Should I crank it up to 10 or 20 amp every now and then? Plus, the CTEK is still coming! (Desulfate mode?)
I also replaced the ABS module today. Will have Advance read the codes, and attempt to clear. We will see...
I just charged it up a little more at 10A.. Now it will sit a brief while, then get driven on.
Time to see about these codes and CEL.
Time to see about these codes and CEL.
Keep us posted. Somehow I think you will...
my friend lives in a cabin, his only electricity is from solar, wind. he has abut 100 battery's. he says that the slower you charge battery's, the better.
GHT - idling won't charge up a battery in many cases...you need to drive this car at highway RPM.
But your approach continues to baffle me...instead of actually fixing what's wrong (a weak battery, bad brakes, an overdue timing belt, a failed ABS module, the CEL), you go out and spend $$ on band-aid solutions like a battery charger and extension cord. This isn't a good use of limited $$...and you still have not fixed what's actually wrong with the car...it's like buying more fix-a-flat instead of patching/plugging the tire. You can't charge this everywhere you park it. Get a battery that works and quit wasting money on un-needed stuff.
This poor car has already shown you what happens when you neglect maintenance and repair...so, your response is to neglect it more?
But your approach continues to baffle me...instead of actually fixing what's wrong (a weak battery, bad brakes, an overdue timing belt, a failed ABS module, the CEL), you go out and spend $$ on band-aid solutions like a battery charger and extension cord. This isn't a good use of limited $$...and you still have not fixed what's actually wrong with the car...it's like buying more fix-a-flat instead of patching/plugging the tire. You can't charge this everywhere you park it. Get a battery that works and quit wasting money on un-needed stuff.
This poor car has already shown you what happens when you neglect maintenance and repair...so, your response is to neglect it more?
geez - you had to have spent $70-80+ on chargers instead of a new battery?
Originally Posted By: GearheadTool
I think I want to go ahead and get the CTEK 3300. I think it may really help the battery that is in there. Maybe even let it sit an hour or two after car is turned off..
What are some opinions about charging an old battery? The CTEK is supposed to be a great "smart" charger, and I would likely have it on for about.. 7 hours, maybe? Late at night, cold. So "winter" mode, with the snowflake...
From your posts, I think your charging system is fine, but your battery may be fading.
Too late now since you ordered the thing, but I would just replace the battery and pass on the charger. NAPA Bat 8448 (best) or an Advance gold series (good value).
A smart charger is an expensive unnecessary luxury on a daily driver. You have other more pressing priorities on that car.
If someday you need a Ctek, the MUS4.3 is a better charger than the old 3300 - more powerful and a more refined charge pattern.
. . . and buy the $5 battery hold-down clip.
I think I want to go ahead and get the CTEK 3300. I think it may really help the battery that is in there. Maybe even let it sit an hour or two after car is turned off..
What are some opinions about charging an old battery? The CTEK is supposed to be a great "smart" charger, and I would likely have it on for about.. 7 hours, maybe? Late at night, cold. So "winter" mode, with the snowflake...
From your posts, I think your charging system is fine, but your battery may be fading.
Too late now since you ordered the thing, but I would just replace the battery and pass on the charger. NAPA Bat 8448 (best) or an Advance gold series (good value).
A smart charger is an expensive unnecessary luxury on a daily driver. You have other more pressing priorities on that car.
If someday you need a Ctek, the MUS4.3 is a better charger than the old 3300 - more powerful and a more refined charge pattern.
. . . and buy the $5 battery hold-down clip.
JHZR2
Staff member
Originally Posted By: morris
my friend lives in a cabin, his only electricity is from solar, wind. he has abut 100 battery's. he says that the slower you charge battery's, the better.
Define slow. That has to do with gas evolution and recombination mainly. Even if he put it on at 20A, on a 65Ah battery, it's 0.3C. Recent studies show good morphology changes at 1.5C.
my friend lives in a cabin, his only electricity is from solar, wind. he has abut 100 battery's. he says that the slower you charge battery's, the better.
Define slow. That has to do with gas evolution and recombination mainly. Even if he put it on at 20A, on a 65Ah battery, it's 0.3C. Recent studies show good morphology changes at 1.5C.
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