Changing upstream O2 sensor 2001 Grand Prix 3.1 L motor

[mrbreezeet1]

What is the best style socket to use for this job? {I have a Denso O2 sensor ordered}
Also do you think I will need heat to break it loose?
Is Tekton the best brand to get, or at least one of the better ones?

 

[Trav]

I use one like the bottom one, put a 1/2" drive extension in it and use a cordless impact in reverse and it will come loose with no stress.
Tekton is okay for this sort of stuff.

 

[spasm3]

I have an O2 socket that's slotted like the top one. The second one you posted may give more leverage with a breaker bar.

Just realize that on a car that age, it will be difficult, and the threads might strip no matter what you do.
I was changing them on an 03 avalanche, and I had to cut the wires and use impact to remove it.
Lost some threads, but had enough left after I used a thread chaser.

 

[eljefino]

You have a shot at getting this with a 7/8 open end wrench. Tap it with a hammer after running it 60 seconds.

 

[mrbreezeet1]

Maybe l should spray it down for a few days before l try to change it too!

 

[mrbreezeet1]

I use one like the bottom one, put a 1/2" drive extension in it and use a cordless impact in reverse and it will come loose with no stress.
Tekton is okay for this sort of stuff.

ls your socket 1/2" drive? That one I looked at from Tekton is 3/8" drive.

 

[edyvw]

Why are you changing only upstream O2?

 

[mrbreezeet1]

Why are you changing only upstream O2?

Trying to help my gas mileage.
It's my understanding the downstream only measures the catalytic converter efficiency.

 

[edyvw]

Trying to help my gas mileage.
It's my understanding the downstream only measures the catalytic converter efficiency.

Yes, but they work together. If one O2 is old, there might be a discrepancy. Always change all O2 sensors when one fails.

 

[Trav]

ls your socket 1/2" drive? That one I looked at from Tekton is 3/8" drive.

1/2" drive

1/2" drive Amazon list it as 3/8 but they screwed up it is 1/2

 

[SHOZ]

If you aren't trying to save the old one use a 7/8 box end wrench. All those split ones I've used flexed and didn't do the job for me. Defiantly get it hot before trying to remove.

If you aren't getting any codes specifically for slow response or dead sensor then it's not the O2 sensor.

 

[Trav]

IIRC on that engine there is not much room for swinging a 7/8 wrench behind the engine. Again IIRC you need to rotate the engine forward to get the socket on then use an extension and hit it with an impact.
The first time I tried this I was a bit nervous, I had no idea if it would even work or if it would spin the thing around like a blender and fly off but 2 impact blows of a mid size cordless knocked it loose and only rotated it 1/2 turn so I could unscrew it by hand. Over the years I have used this on some really old and rotten sensors with the same result.

 

[SHOZ]

I changed the post cat sensor on my '08 Accent at +125k miles. Heated it up and used a wrench. It started moving and I worked it back and forth. But it took out the threads from the bung too.

Only thread tapper you could get was a chaser and not a new thread cutter so it didn't work. I ended up starting the thread cutting with a 3/8" NPT pipe thread cutter and once got some threads then used the O2 sensor chaser. Once I got some sort of thread back in the bung I used a short bung extender as there was no going back to the OE threads.

Ended up getting a new cat anyway as that was the real issue.

 

[mrbreezeet1]

IIRC on that engine there is not much room for swinging a 7/8 wrench behind the engine. Again IIRC you need to rotate the engine forward to get the socket on then use an extension and hit it with an impact.
The first time I tried this I was a bit nervous, I had no idea if it would even work or if it would spin the thing around like a blender and fly off but 2 impact blows of a mid size cordless knocked it loose and only rotated it 1/2 turn so I could unscrew it by hand. Over the years I have used this on some really old and rotten sensors with the same result.

Thanks Trav!
I ordered the Crow's foot looking style but I can only find them in 3/8 drive, but I have one of those extensions that's half inch on the one end and 3/8 on the other end, it's about 10 in long if I remember right. I'll give that a try thanks again.

 

[mrbreezeet1]

I changed the post cat sensor on my '08 Accent at +125k miles. Heated it up and used a wrench. It started moving and I worked it back and forth. But it took out the threads from the bung too.

Only thread tapper you could get was a chaser and not a new thread cutter so it didn't work. I ended up starting the thread cutting with a 3/8" NPT pipe thread cutter and once got some threads then used the O2 sensor chaser. Once I got some sort of thread back in the bung I used a short bung extender as there was no going back to the OE threads.

Ended up getting a new cat anyway as that was the real issue.

Oh geez, what a CF!

 

[GMBoy]

This is my GO TO oxygen sensor tool - nothing better in my opinion - lots of leverage and works in tight areas.

https://www.autozone.com/test-scan-...oemtools-22mm-oxygen-sensor-wrench/947305_0_0

 

[mrbreezeet1]

If you aren't trying to save the old one use a 7/8 box end wrench. All those split ones I've used flexed and didn't do the job for me. Defiantly get it hot before trying to remove.

If you aren't getting any codes specifically for slow response or dead sensor, then it's not the O2 sensor.

l thought about cutting the wire and using a regular socket, but l hate to because what lf l can't get the old one out?

 

[spasm3]

l thought about cutting the wire and using a regular socket, but l hate to because what lf l can't get the old one out?

Thats the risk!

 

[someonesomewhere]

Maybe l should spray it down for a few days before l try to change it too!

Always. Just know it'll stink for a bit if you're still driving it around. Lol

 

[mrbreezeet1]

Always. Just know it'll stink for a bit if you're still driving it around. Lol

Oh, OK that's OK though, Thanks!