Changing spark plugs.

[Ironduke4]

I am working on a friends 1999 dodge grand caravan with the 3.8L V6 engine.
I am changing the spark plugs the front plugs are really easy to get to but my question is how in the world do you get to the rear spark plugs?
It is so tight i can hardly get my hand back there by itself let alone with a wrench in my hand.
The only way i can see to get at the rear plugs is to unbolt the upper plenum and raise it up about 3 inches and then i can get to the plugs.
Or is there an easier way?
Can i possibly get at the rear plugs from the bottom?
Please advise! thanks!

 

[kenw]

here's how I did 'em:

I highly recommend you permanently attach your plug socket to a 6" extension. I epoxied mine together. You DO NOT want it to separate while it's down in the tube!! And your plug socket MUST have the rubber insert to "grab" the plug and get it out once unscrewed. I prefer the shortest rachet handle I have, longer ones won't swing enough. Swivels aren't necessary.

set all the new plugs on the windshield vent area so you can reach them easily with one arm stuck under the intake. stay tuned to see why....

reach in with one arm and unplug the wire. Leaving that arm in there, feed your plug socket on a 6" extension in there. feed that down and set it on the plug making sure it seats correctly on the hex.

next feed the rachet handle in there and go at it. When it is loose, remove the rachet from the extension feed it back out; then pull the socket/extension and the captured plug out, feed it to the free hand and move on the center plug all while leaving that arm in there. Trust me, getting it in and out is the hard part.

you can reach the passenger side and center plug from the passenger side, the driver's side will have to be reached from the driver's side. I never removed anything that I recall, if so it wasn't anything more than a vacuum hose or 2 that were simple to remove and replace.

 

[y_p_w]

quote:

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Originally posted by kenw:
here's how I did 'em:

I highly recommend you permanently attach your plug socket to a 6" extension. I epoxied mine together. You DO NOT want it to separate while it's down in the tube!! And your plug socket MUST have the rubber insert to "grab" the plug and get it out once unscrewed. I prefer the shortest rachet handle I have, longer ones won't swing enough. Swivels aren't necessary.

---

What? I've had one of these for about 8 years. Works beautifully and I prefer a little bit of "wobble". As long as the "dimple" in the socket is deep enough, it'll lock securely. I've had some sockets where the "dimples" were too shallow to lock on a quick-release ratchet.

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?vertical=SEARS&pid=00944357000

The picture for the single 6" extension is incorrect. This is what they really look like:

 

[doitmyself]

Ironduke - sounds like Kenw has hands on experience with this.

For what it's worth, here is what the Haynes manual says about this (typically Haynes is incorrect with some procedures):

Plug #1: Remove the drive belt. Remove the four alternator bracket bolts and push the alternator rearward. Remove and replace the plug with socket and ratchet.

Plugs $3 and #5: Remove the resonator and the intake strut bolt at the cylinder head. Remove the intake strut bolt an the intake manifold and swing the strut out of the way. remove and replace the plugs.....

If this is incorrect, don't shoot me, I'm just passing along the info!

 

[kenw]

ypw, what I was referring to were dedicated swivels, or u-joints; either as separate parts inline with the extension/socket or as part of the rachet head. I'm sure the tools you show will work fine although if the dimple releases you are up the creek bigtime! However, for this procedure I don't need any swivel or wobble in my experiences with that engine.

I also use the same epoxied socket/extension combo on my other cars with OHC.

I'm sure the Haynes procedure will work, but it sounds like the type of method I prefer to avoid as it usually means forgetting something......

 

[Rob Taggs]

The mechanics at work take the remove the front motor mount and rock the motor forward and then prop the the motor in place with a 2x4 against the firewall. Don't know if this is very wise? As for me, I'm taking mine to a mechanic. Its too much of a headache for me.

 

[ShortBuSX]

I had to disconnect the front motor mounts and then place one of the bolts back through a hole on one of the mounts that was there specificlly for this purpose(on an older Grand Prix)I dont think Id do the 2x4 trick, but hes on track with rockin the motor forward.

 

[olympic]

I have an older Caravan 3.3L and my mechanic changes the back plugs from underneath with the van up on the lift.

 

[y_p_w]

I'm used to inline engines. The hardest thing I've ever had to do was remove the bolts for a spark plug wire cover, and that was pretty much cosmetic. I probably could have left the cover off permanently.

I've now got a Subaru, and for the first time I'm going to have to remove junk to reach the plugs. Good thing they're long life platinums.

 

[JParrott]

I do my 2000 3.3L Grand Voyager from underneath on cylinders 3 & 5 (drivers side rear and middle rear). On cylinder 1 (passenger side rear)I remove the alternator and mounting bracket and get to it just fine. It is kinda tight but with a standard 6" or 8" 3/8 ratchet, spark plug socket or a 21mm socket, and a 3" and 6" extension you should be fine. I use no wobble extension and I can torque all of mine with a torque wrench too except for No. 1.

I doubt there's a whole lot of difference in between the models, but there could be. I have no idea why you would ever have to undo motor mounts to get to spark plugs. Guess it's just your preference or there is a big difference.

 

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Tip: Spray the rubber insert in your spark plug socket with silicone spray. This will prevent it from pulling off the socket from even a quick-release (locking) extension bar. Not a good thing to happen in a spark plug tube on the "dark side" of your engine.