I read somewhere online an article from a serious oil guru that stated that ZDDP needs to oxidize some before it starts working its best. 1000 miles on a street engine give or take was enough for the reaction.
Changing oil to early harmful?
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Cool SC setup.
The measurable increase in benefits of FULLY activated, bonded adds over extended time periods are GENERALLY outweighed by cleanliness and specifically contamination issues in daily drivers.
Another good reason to stop switching oil chemistry every oil drain, BITOGER's.
As far as "dry" starts and frequent changing, if there is any reasonable polar capability to the oil used it won't be "dry".
The measurable increase in benefits of FULLY activated, bonded adds over extended time periods are GENERALLY outweighed by cleanliness and specifically contamination issues in daily drivers.
Another good reason to stop switching oil chemistry every oil drain, BITOGER's.
As far as "dry" starts and frequent changing, if there is any reasonable polar capability to the oil used it won't be "dry".
Well...thank you to all the people that gave me a thought out response and wasn't a wise ***....
I'll have some pre aged 3,000 mile oil I'll sell you guys in a couple of months...
I can imagine using a good oil and sticking with it being a good thing...
But I seriously doubt changing your engine oil at 3,000 miles or earlier is going to cause accelerated wear.
As far as I can remember everyone I knew that believed in religiously changing their oil from 2,500 to 3,000 miles never had an problem with their engine...
But I do know a few people that rarely changed their oil and had lots of problems...
My brother is one of them...He followed Amsoil OCI recommendations on his Tahoe and it smoked and sounded like it was about to explode with only 50,000 miles on it.
I can imagine using a good oil and sticking with it being a good thing...
But I seriously doubt changing your engine oil at 3,000 miles or earlier is going to cause accelerated wear.
As far as I can remember everyone I knew that believed in religiously changing their oil from 2,500 to 3,000 miles never had an problem with their engine...
But I do know a few people that rarely changed their oil and had lots of problems...
My brother is one of them...He followed Amsoil OCI recommendations on his Tahoe and it smoked and sounded like it was about to explode with only 50,000 miles on it.
But the spirit of "BITOG" is to be bold and try new oils! But with extended OCIs and so many quality oils, how is an individual ever to determine the best oil for one's engine and still abide by your recommendation Terry?
All I know is that with my wife's 2002 Exploder with the 4.0 V-6 wear numbers at 4100 mi OCI and the very next OCI at 8200 miles were just about identical. Only the TBN for the 8200 mi OCI was less. This was using Schaeffers Supreme Blend 5w30 WITHOUT ANY ADDITIVES.
Whimsey
Whimsey
If that's the case - changing oil too frequently/early, mine should be on it's deathbed.
My one - "picky", likes clean oil - truck, gets an oil/filter ritual every 2k miles.
But there at 139k miles, it developed a tick, and got an oil/filter change every 5-900 miles a few times, as an attempt to flush gunk out. I only used seafoam once, however, and that was it for an actual engine cleaner.
Put her on a new diet of Rotella synethic 5w-40, off from her 1st 8yrs of Havoline - been in for 1,300 miles now - no trace of ticking.
Will change out at 2,500 and then go to 3-4K mile changes, since the Rotella is a heavier detergent oil.
My one - "picky", likes clean oil - truck, gets an oil/filter ritual every 2k miles.
But there at 139k miles, it developed a tick, and got an oil/filter change every 5-900 miles a few times, as an attempt to flush gunk out. I only used seafoam once, however, and that was it for an actual engine cleaner.
Put her on a new diet of Rotella synethic 5w-40, off from her 1st 8yrs of Havoline - been in for 1,300 miles now - no trace of ticking.
Will change out at 2,500 and then go to 3-4K mile changes, since the Rotella is a heavier detergent oil.
So a "less risk" approach would be to take a litre out every 1000 miles (that's a complete oil change on my Navara), with a filter change at the recommended OCI.
No stripped threads, "bedded in" oil all year round, no dry starts etc.
Basically 3MPS test, with a larger sample taken each 1000 miles.
No stripped threads, "bedded in" oil all year round, no dry starts etc.
Basically 3MPS test, with a larger sample taken each 1000 miles.
Hi,
Shannow - this is the principle used on some truck diesels. The device takes out a measured amount blending it into the fuel system and then adds in new oil at the "sweet point"
One OLD Fleet I work with is using Cummins engines and has used this process in consort with Shell for at least five years. It has been very successful for them
There are a number of other fleets involved as well
Webb Enterprises in the US sell such systems!
They work!!
Doug
Shannow - this is the principle used on some truck diesels. The device takes out a measured amount blending it into the fuel system and then adds in new oil at the "sweet point"
One OLD Fleet I work with is using Cummins engines and has used this process in consort with Shell for at least five years. It has been very successful for them
There are a number of other fleets involved as well
Webb Enterprises in the US sell such systems!
They work!!
Doug
When we change oil some is always left in the engine. So, we already have some pre-conditioned oil in there already. As stated, however, we shouldn't change brands all the time as the old oil may not be completely compatible with the chemistry of the new oil.
I also do my oil about every 2000 miles and
more often on my van because it doesn't get
driven as much. Nothing but Castrol GTX or
Havoline with Pure One Filters. I even do
the lawn tractor twice a year. Oil is cheap
engines are not.
more often on my van because it doesn't get
driven as much. Nothing but Castrol GTX or
Havoline with Pure One Filters. I even do
the lawn tractor twice a year. Oil is cheap
engines are not.
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